tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-82613614072576161902024-02-07T05:39:35.606-08:00Des' projects or "Musings from the Shed"A description of projects I've completed, or working on. Most projects focus on bricolage - building something useful from things others have thrown away. I will occasionally comment on other things, but the focus of this site is to shown what can be done with minimal cost.des bromilowhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09894433410422774724noreply@blogger.comBlogger92125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8261361407257616190.post-8237603341974357462023-10-30T21:56:00.005-07:002023-10-30T21:56:50.581-07:00FOUND - Repository of old CIG manuals for welders, etc<p> Finding a copy of the owner manual for a Cigweld TransMIG 190</p><p>Thankfully the helpful people at CIG have uploaded a lot of their old manuals (and some current ones) to: https://www.cwsupport.com.au/ which takes through to a public google drive section with all their uploaded manuals available for free.</p><p><br /></p><p>It has been a big help for me, and I hope it helps you.<br /></p>des bromilowhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09894433410422774724noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8261361407257616190.post-81541313339460858422015-02-16T03:50:00.001-08:002015-02-16T13:07:54.045-08:00scale model of the "Music Box" - 1932 Laurel and Hardy figurineJust a drop for three photos of the "music box" which I built over the weekend to replace a missing part of a figurine which we'd owned for years.<br />
the box is 250mm long, and 242mm high - I think the box is 116mm deep, but that is from memory.<br />
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the box is made from 3mm ply, and pine boards ripped from 12mm and 19mm stock - each board is 3mm thick, and the 19mm boards are planed down to the required 14mm for the scale appearance.<br />
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all dimensions were taken from screen snaps of the original 1932 movie, and scaled to suit the distance across Oli's back.<br />
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Enjoy<br />
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webpage updates... they'll be back, but it's rating as a lower priority compared to a number of other tasks and projects. - Sorry.des bromilowhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09894433410422774724noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8261361407257616190.post-81493204248024186632013-05-25T05:20:00.002-07:002013-05-25T05:20:59.333-07:00New project - "Bin'da" the millWell what can I say..<br />
Firstly a bit of an apology for not updating the webpage - plenty of things to blame, but that's that.<br />
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Secondly - yes I've picked up another project - Yes I'm aware I have more projects on my list than hours in the day, and time, money and space is always an issue - let's see what I can arrange over the next 12-18 months.<br />
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So, what have I been up to?<br />
Cut down a number of trees around the property (ones which posed a danger to structure, fencing, etc)<br />
Done a number of minor repairs in the house and "shed"<br />
Built a woodshed<br />
Filled said woodshed with timber dried and split from the tree feeling<br />
Started various minor projects including a keyway shaper for the lathe, minor doodads, etc<br />
Worked hard on a number of key projects at work (mostly centred around Documentation systems)<br />
Started designing my real shed - the one I hope to build one day<br />
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My new project...<br />
Back in January 2013 (this year) I found this milling machine in a skip bin. It is a bridgeport clone, sold by Herless (Melbourne) and seems to carry dates from the mid 1980s.<br />
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It took some effort from a number of people, but I was able to get permission to rescue it, got it lifted from the bin, and eventually transported to my house (Photos of that endeavour wil have to wait for now)<br />
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Since it's arrival here I've researched the mill as best I can, and commenced cataloging the damage.<br />
Briefly the damage is...<br />
Handles for X and Y axes are damaged<br />
Y screw is broken<br />
X screw is bent<br />
Z handle is missing<br />
electrical circuits are damaged (cables and controls)<br />
nearly every knob from the head is missing<br />
quill controls (handle, fine feed, and clutch) are missing<br />
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I have commenced fixing her up (yes the mill is a "She") and named her "Bin'da" based on her being "Binned"<br />
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Thanks to a number of people on anumber of forums, I have been able to track down photos and dimensions of some missing pieces and have already commenced making up the missing parts (more articles and photos on that to come as well)<br />
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In the meanwhile, hopefully you see the potential in this the same way I do...<br />
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Until next time<br /><br />des bromilowhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09894433410422774724noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8261361407257616190.post-21445740407379267642012-11-26T01:52:00.000-08:002012-11-26T01:52:38.925-08:00Symmetrical Alignment MethodSymmetrical Alignment method, is a method for marking and drilling holes so two plates align, and they can be rotated in relation to each other and still align.<br />
Where did the need for this method come from? – I was constructing a Lantern Chuck and needed to make two plates which would be rotated in the lathe, and I was concerned about needing to ensure the alignment of the two plates when screwing the parts together. Typically I would try for a good fit, but mark the two parts to ensure the same assembly orientation in case there were any errors in drilling or marking out. I reasoned this practise would not be beneficial for something which was to be rotated, since my typical method for marking the orientation was to dock matching corners off, or use one fixing bolt as a larger size – both which had the potential to influence the balance of the final device.<br />
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Presumptions:<br />
Drill press is vertical and holes are shake free fit on pins or bolts of the same nominal size.<br />
Clamping is firm, but non-distorting<br />
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In reference to the drawings, the two plates are "Back Plate" and "Front Plate", with three holes to be placed in each plate. The two centre holes are labelled "BC" and "FC" - for the Back Centre, and Front Centre respectively. The other two holes per plate are labelled as "B1", "B2", "F1", and "F2" as a means of showing how they are drilled in the method. (refer Sk. 1)
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The plates are marked with the longitudinal axis, and the centre holes (BC & FC), and one hole in F (F1) are punched for drilling. Holes "BC" and "FC" are drilled to match a bolt which will serve to join them together for the marking/drilling - In the case I'm describing I used a 6mm bolt and nut.
Hole "F1" is also drilled at a size to match the required task - 5mm in the real world case I'm describing since it is the tapping size for M6x1 threads. Sk. 2 shows the two plates with the centre holes and F1 drilled.
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The two plates are laid together and joined with a bolt or pin through the centre holes (Shown as a solid RED sectioned bolt in holes BC and FC in Sk 3). Then the hole F1 is lined up over the longitudinal line for B1 as shown in Sk. 3. A clamp is used to stop the plates moving in relation to each other.
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With the plates clamped, a drill is used to drill through F1 to create hole B1. Since I used a 5mm drill to drill F1, I used a 5mm drill to create hole B1 and effectively used hole F1 as a drill guide. – the result is shown in Sk. 4
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Once the hole B1 is drilled, the clamp can be removed, and the plates rotated relative to each other – in Sk. 5 I’ve shown the “Front Plate” being rotated about the central bolt which joins it to the “Back Plate”
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The top plate is rotated until the visible hole (F1) lines up with the marks for the bottom hole (B2) and then the plates are clamped together again. This orientation is shown in Sk. 6
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With the two plates joined at the centre, and clamped in position, the Hole F1 acts as a drill guide for the drilling of hole B2 as shown in Sk. 7. As noted in Sk. 7, the previously drilled hole (B1) is hidden by the undrilled portion of the “Front Plate”
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Once the hole at B2 has been drilled by using F1 as a drill guide, you can either leave them clamped, or slip a close fitting bolt or pin through the holes as shown in Sk. 8 as a sectioned BLUE pin.
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Irrespective of how the two plates are joined together (clamped or two pins), the whole assembly should then be turned upside down so the top plate is at the bottom, and vice versa – this is illustrated in Sk. 9 and clearly shows how the previously drilled hole B1 is now visible to use as a drilling guide for the hole at F2
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Sk. 10 shows the resulting hole at F2 was drilled using B1 as a drill guide.
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Sk. 11 is the result and culmination of the “symmetrical alignment method”. Each plate has the three holes drilled, and can be placed with a shaft through BC and FC and have F1 line up with either B1 or B2, similarly with F2 lining up with either b2 or B1 – this means a part will fit either way, and compensates for any minor errors in marking out.
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This information is offered as additional information to support the article which was written for MEW (Model Engineers Workshop) for the Lantern Chuck article.<br />
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I suppose I should apologise for the dearth of articles lately - things are being worked on, jsut not as quickly as I'd like, and time for writing the articles is becomings scarce again.des bromilowhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09894433410422774724noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8261361407257616190.post-16261541166144687052012-04-02T05:43:00.000-07:002012-04-02T05:43:48.597-07:00Still kicking - Home repairs, and FIFOThis is yet another "I'm still alive and sorry the webpage isn't being updated" posts... what can I say - life gets in the way of updating this page.<br />
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What have I been up to?<br />
I'm now in a house my wife and I bought - reasonably good, but in need of some love and attention. I've had to fix a few things here and there - assisted the sparky in moving some lights, installing some ceiling fans, and running data cabling throughout the house. I learnt a lot, and did all the prep and finishing work (patching the walls after the work was completed)<br />
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I'm in the midst of changing roles again - the first role change annouced last year moved me from residential callout support to a Fly in, Fly Out (FIFO) shift worker, and this new role will keep me FIFO, but into a supervisory role wth a lot of scope for personal and professional development and opportunity. With the move from residential to FIFO, I've been less active in Volunteer Fire and Rescue in the community, and have instead joined the local Bush Fire Service in the little town I settled in. I'm still active in the minesite Emergency Response Team (ERT) and hope to transfer my ERT membership to the new role and new site.<br />
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I hope to be able to do some reviews in the next few weeks - some of the engineering books I've been reading, the GPS unit I bought (so I didn't get lost in the city), and anything else which is of interest.<br />
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Current projects:<br />
a - arranging the house and garage to create a workshop<br />
b - Obtaining planning approval for my permanant shed from the local council<br />
c - planning the electrical design for my permanent shed, revisions to the house wiring, and additional works<br />
d - assemble the taig Mill, and commence using it<br />
e - assemble a tool and cutter grinder<br />
f - assemble a small propane furnace for aluminium, brass and bronze.<br />
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Longer term projects:<br />
everything else I've put on hold<br />
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The only other thing of note is I've got back into "indexing" work - I allocate a couple of hours each Sunday afternoon and index records for Familysearch.org - it's interesting work, and helps those researching their ancestors. Well worth the minor effort on my part.des bromilowhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09894433410422774724noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8261361407257616190.post-9475449425438278402011-11-14T20:09:00.000-08:002011-11-14T20:09:42.894-08:00Still alive - some newsWell it's been a while since I posted - lots happening.<br />
Long story short, I'm in the middle of moving house due to a change in my employment conditions. This means for the past 4 weeks I've been working shifts, and had the house in boxes... and those boxes won't open for another few weeks, and I'll continue on shift even after that.<br />
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Longer term this means a shift in my projects whilst I shake down the house, and get the shed/s up. For quite some time, the projects will be limited to small things done in the field desk, and a lot of home renovation/ repair work.<br />
Whilst I'm in the shift situation, I will be flying a lot, and getting very little done except on my off swing - then it's flat out getting work done at home.<br />
I don't want to be doing FIFO (Fly In, Fly Out) and shift long term, this was a decision accepted based on the conditions under which I currently work, my scope for promotion, and other factors. I am applying for other work within the company since it is a great company to work for, and I don't really want to leave it if at all possible.<br />
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Current challenges:<br />
trying to keep losing weight whilst surrounded by "camp food"<br />
trying to remain busy developing my skills in Control Systems, Electrical Engineering, and Managemnt (Personelle and Project)<br />
trying to keep busy with my hobbies and interests<br />
trying to not let the distance and seperation from my family cause issues or concerns<br />
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Next challenges:<br />
Overcome whatever obstacles prevent me from obtaining my next job - the one which allows me to spend time with my family, and still meet my financial commitments.<br />
Underfloor ventilation in a building built in the 1950's (or was it 1850's?)<br />
adjustments to various sewerage/septic systems<br />
repairs alterations to fencing - boundary and pool<br />
repairs and alterations to existing "shed"<br />
minor extensions and modifications to house<br />
construction of shed/studio on site to suit my needs - now and future<br />
construction of granny flat (ancillary accomodation) on site<br />
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That's it for now - Once everything is unpacked, and settled down, I'll update this with some archived projects, and some of the "home owner" projects as they arise. Hopefully I'll be in a position to accept a new role, and spend more time with my family, and less time away from them.des bromilowhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09894433410422774724noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8261361407257616190.post-51351382308690871052011-09-17T06:52:00.001-07:002021-10-30T22:43:41.707-07:00Construction Photos for Serial Cable kit - Mk3/4The serial cable kit was formally released at work last week - the usage instruction manual was completed, and the construction manual as well. Confirmed cost came in at $48.87 per kit if 20 were made, $97 to make a single using company approved vendors and their MOQs for certain parts - If Ebay was used, the price per single kit still sits around $40. Either way you look at it, it is a dramatic reduction in price compared to the Mk2 kits I made back in 2008 - they came in at $400 per kit for the same functionality as the Mk3/4 Kits.<br />
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In the meanwhile here are a few photos taken during construction, and a couple of snapshots of the finished kit, and construction manual.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJLPTVrOPy2244LH-iIJu6HjU26YgnI9XgApsAtNQogg_HTjNldMVFDypOlFby_eZbjXLbotuaviIbvdoOQjgZDwmgIy3aUlwg3Zt14y78kP96jAesKHZh5E5ia0i5OycGkpkMCt3DxfnR/s1600/101_1024.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJLPTVrOPy2244LH-iIJu6HjU26YgnI9XgApsAtNQogg_HTjNldMVFDypOlFby_eZbjXLbotuaviIbvdoOQjgZDwmgIy3aUlwg3Zt14y78kP96jAesKHZh5E5ia0i5OycGkpkMCt3DxfnR/s320/101_1024.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Photo 1 - breadboard cut to form baseboard</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The baseboard is a small segment of breadboard anchored to a baseboard which incorporates the breadboard, the serial cable terminations, cable anchors, and module "ejection mechanism"<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpVvIgShf_S8Dny9cGBkCgAjBOjykvLjkTp1eJGu6KTBxK61G5NTP-xZTbheoT3tATLsE6MJUMFH7DgzZwRZvPsKeijnF6xiwArP4u4qMqw-cswdOTzDNHpPAiLj53-mrzHEROIdkwz_hv/s1600/101_1027.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpVvIgShf_S8Dny9cGBkCgAjBOjykvLjkTp1eJGu6KTBxK61G5NTP-xZTbheoT3tATLsE6MJUMFH7DgzZwRZvPsKeijnF6xiwArP4u4qMqw-cswdOTzDNHpPAiLj53-mrzHEROIdkwz_hv/s320/101_1027.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Photo 2 - Baseboard and anchor plates - under construction</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Everything in this kit was designed to minimise costs, and as such salvaged materials were used wherever possible - including salvaged screen-door extrusion for the anchor plates -the construction manual has drawings of all parts to be constructed, and alternate dimensions/ drawings if the extrusion was substituted with pieces made from simple sheet metal.<br />
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The "modules" are simply modified IC sockets, which are later labelled and "potted" for protection and resilience.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgt-XH4Dy8Yd4AwkUJdHFDp5yABl3Fx0a3_B3gWv2EGkUQXQMleGHM-i18NvxSYcOg87m-T2_8heurSemwLyptYDEnKJaBlWglrMppH3uSpHSdDtipIIS9Ge8VDyl0YPwDUgwp0FgoTYIeH/s1600/101_1029.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgt-XH4Dy8Yd4AwkUJdHFDp5yABl3Fx0a3_B3gWv2EGkUQXQMleGHM-i18NvxSYcOg87m-T2_8heurSemwLyptYDEnKJaBlWglrMppH3uSpHSdDtipIIS9Ge8VDyl0YPwDUgwp0FgoTYIeH/s320/101_1029.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Photo 3 - "Modules" under construction</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
The serial cable is modified to suit the cable kits requirements. All construction for the prototype kits was made using tooling and equipment in my field desk - including the third-hand, modified pliers, solder pens, etc<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXhHZvnFE4sOXMN5z5mwf3_wlO7bjcTSHDTgoWABd06PLu2VtPg-eKr8obdsKCqIrLfgUJbUQO2QxZVzVTA4jJ02b8FE3wepvAT66dNICwSS0u7B87rvTgVl2_yCe4_F3sNN6bPPmzHTnH/s1600/101_1047.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXhHZvnFE4sOXMN5z5mwf3_wlO7bjcTSHDTgoWABd06PLu2VtPg-eKr8obdsKCqIrLfgUJbUQO2QxZVzVTA4jJ02b8FE3wepvAT66dNICwSS0u7B87rvTgVl2_yCe4_F3sNN6bPPmzHTnH/s320/101_1047.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Photo 4 - Serial cables being modified to suit kit</td></tr>
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Compact/ resilient storage of the kit and components was one of the deliverables I placed in the kit design. I accomplished this by modifying a commercially available storage box, and then constructing stack-able compartments which slid inside the outer case.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHJ-Ho4cl1_MRryBIrVYRUmBr8mwYaN732o6NI1pHW2NSv4_DfRImZv9XDyMsG8pm7UwNRzNKMrLNcSchx4z3fYUPLL3vFUN3G6lZ9VB_nwCyL8Zb9U4ZvbG1m3ArHa-w4uW1XTFKpc79m/s1600/101_1059.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHJ-Ho4cl1_MRryBIrVYRUmBr8mwYaN732o6NI1pHW2NSv4_DfRImZv9XDyMsG8pm7UwNRzNKMrLNcSchx4z3fYUPLL3vFUN3G6lZ9VB_nwCyL8Zb9U4ZvbG1m3ArHa-w4uW1XTFKpc79m/s320/101_1059.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Photo 5 - Completed modules in stacked storage compartment</td></tr>
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The user manual was deliberately formatted so when printed it could be trimmed to fit in a designated space in the the container - the finished manual measures 245 x 185mm (9 5/8 x 7 1/4") and is around 25 pages thick (printed in duplex, but with 6 pages of blank paper for notepaper) <br />
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I will have to "de-crest" the manual/s if they were published here since they reference work, and the department I work in - since they were the target audience of the design.<br />
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I've blanked out the company/ section details, and my address information on the thumb-drive label - hence the white blotches<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgraS6Kycs5pyM3Ag8KYRVu0v3IWvolVLnaLVXNH3rEnal2wYKAtUqpXZMll2I3rsX3ul1H_TKJNgnvd4dJTpPZdeK1ZumP5b8MtD19u6nnV-jNMlBpDKLXpjDQnz7q084lx5KMmFGFpJvH/s1600/101_108_mod7.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgraS6Kycs5pyM3Ag8KYRVu0v3IWvolVLnaLVXNH3rEnal2wYKAtUqpXZMll2I3rsX3ul1H_TKJNgnvd4dJTpPZdeK1ZumP5b8MtD19u6nnV-jNMlBpDKLXpjDQnz7q084lx5KMmFGFpJvH/s320/101_108_mod7.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Photo 6 - Completed kit with instruction manual in lid</td></tr>
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The construction manual contains a number of progress photos, drawings, tips and alternate materials discussions. I wrote the manual with second year electrical apprentices in mind - some familiarity with basic hand-skills, interpretation of drawings, and the sense to know what holes get changed if you change a countersunk screw from 3/16"-24 to 4mm. The manual printed out to 29 pages of duplex A4.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKMn-9FXGVYmjNKDjw5JhXOXJuaZUdEwEBlb6NH_uwdtyLlRSoffjJiyZJogpaCn2-QRc1z8_hfB26CMJF_smEefhEeSBfKRWbIzZ81LIc7fxb67EK-yf7dlLHjQzGstPXCisX7ZuAjoWU/s1600/101_108_mod8.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKMn-9FXGVYmjNKDjw5JhXOXJuaZUdEwEBlb6NH_uwdtyLlRSoffjJiyZJogpaCn2-QRc1z8_hfB26CMJF_smEefhEeSBfKRWbIzZ81LIc7fxb67EK-yf7dlLHjQzGstPXCisX7ZuAjoWU/s320/101_108_mod8.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Photo 7 - Sample page from construction manual</td></tr>
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As mentioned, I'll have to de-crest the manuals before publishing them here - not a huge amount of work, but still anything which adds to my "TTD (Things to Do) list" is not overly welcome right now. If I get some time spare, I'll do it in the next week or so, and add them here: (links will reference google docs)<br />
<a href="https://docs.google.com/document/d/1c-V7-z1JxPUqqLqGTWLzlyBzSlMFF4bNeMVl5WJ2CNI/edit?usp=sharing">User Manual</a><br />
<a href="https://docs.google.com/document/d/0B7K-RihnnOYiOTY2OTI1ODktM2ZhNi00NzlhLWIzMmQtMDM3NGNlYTJiZGJj/edit?usp=sharing&ouid=108714449606053102258&resourcekey=0-6x1A4zaH1bKrWNf0uHf7rw&rtpof=true&sd=true">Construction Manual</a><br />
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I'll post again when something is completed, progressing, or worth discussing.</p><p> </p><p> </p><p> </p><p> <br /></p><p> </p><p> </p><p> </p>des bromilowhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09894433410422774724noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8261361407257616190.post-76872138301315274032011-09-03T08:31:00.000-07:002011-09-03T16:50:26.751-07:00solder pens, electronic tooling, and catch upI was at a course the other day and one of the whiteboard markers ("dry-erase" markers according to Dilbert) ran out - I intercepted it before it got tossed out to make another "solder pen" No-one at the course had heard of them, so here is a quick explanation and construction article.<br />
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When I first started in electronics I simply used solder held in my hands - quite mindful of the warnings regarding lead poisoning, and always washed my hands after working. I don't remember where or when, but somewhere I saw someone use an old de-soldering wick packet to hold small coil of solder (see picture) - this became my preferred soldering method for the next 10-15 years.<br />
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When I built the field desk, I set about duplicating my old faithful toolkit, and found I didn't have any spare de-soldering wick packets...hence I turned to the soldering pen idea. I can't claim credit for it's invention, it's been around for years in various guises from clear containers with the solder poking out, to references on aus.electronics to people filling chemy pen (permanent markers) cases with solder.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfmvFJVZUkfmyl1mS1xOpjDnxJ2VGAuq1EEMtDhZHEIMu6ffXxR_86L0Ku6YH83I1wnxiF-b58seHYsK2hYLl4QFWe-UzmG6m2H5qxJxrlA-oXf8Wyy3GISIzijxZ7U9JPCh8HWsGbrL61/s1600/101_1074.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfmvFJVZUkfmyl1mS1xOpjDnxJ2VGAuq1EEMtDhZHEIMu6ffXxR_86L0Ku6YH83I1wnxiF-b58seHYsK2hYLl4QFWe-UzmG6m2H5qxJxrlA-oXf8Wyy3GISIzijxZ7U9JPCh8HWsGbrL61/s320/101_1074.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Photo 1 - Original "solder - holder" and de-soldering wick</td></tr>
</tbody></table>So how to make a solder pen - select an old marker which has run out of ink, and remove the nib (pliers simply pull it out) and then get the cap at the end out. Sometimes it's necessary to trim away about 10mm (3/8") of the outer case at the end to allow the end-cap to be removed.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpcQFafIrn5ayK3DzcpSxtFaucvcAyKSfjFK3soBrQiA1wxUeuT8T8-XFjlOrkskzJX3YNvzoJ5EFVWlzaGu66HD3cIANq6fSnQiWU6LpSpCXz1suHnV-pP3UrGjfoJqZpUuiVXJUuHtGW/s1600/101_1073.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjpcQFafIrn5ayK3DzcpSxtFaucvcAyKSfjFK3soBrQiA1wxUeuT8T8-XFjlOrkskzJX3YNvzoJ5EFVWlzaGu66HD3cIANq6fSnQiWU6LpSpCXz1suHnV-pP3UrGjfoJqZpUuiVXJUuHtGW/s320/101_1073.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Photo 2 - dismantled marker pen</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
Then measure the internal length of the casing, and select a screwdriver or other thin smooth rod as a mandrel.<br />
Wind the solder around the mandrel to match the length of the length of the case internals leaving around 50mm (2") of solder free at the start - this starting piece will end up being the first of the solder to be used. once one layer has been wound to the correct length, carefully wind back over for a second layer, stopping about 2-3 turns shy of the beginning of the first layer. Keep winding back and forth adding layers neatly until the wound solder is a loose fit in the case.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1ysMqAH7wy2bpUsXhOdYYQea27KvT5-iRTg5Ym0YwrNKQtmsCNUpnBYiL6aXbGoL5rlZ30ELJcoLphjFZMp_8XdODipc2kRuiaQvoLsrlUXBQN6j8vYn5WUDyRVSRS8OwbpiN4gZFhlHD/s1600/101_1077.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1ysMqAH7wy2bpUsXhOdYYQea27KvT5-iRTg5Ym0YwrNKQtmsCNUpnBYiL6aXbGoL5rlZ30ELJcoLphjFZMp_8XdODipc2kRuiaQvoLsrlUXBQN6j8vYn5WUDyRVSRS8OwbpiN4gZFhlHD/s320/101_1077.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Photo 3 - screwdrivers being tested for length</td></tr>
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Cut or break the solder at that point, and gently remove the screwdriver (I found gently rotating it made extraction easier). The bundle of solder will be quite flexible so care must be taken to not stretch or kink it.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhKaw4ooFao4g_Wj67PEgxb4rkx-iNJPKdxXIrOQNACO50Tvd5iSt-ZGotJCgPkd0Sg28cq_bpzo_9tuTZGyf6Z8JhgN9Fnn8uksmOqbQRFOM_ddigUuNKFhDdnsj8NEvk5GM_HAfXacty/s1600/101_1079.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhKaw4ooFao4g_Wj67PEgxb4rkx-iNJPKdxXIrOQNACO50Tvd5iSt-ZGotJCgPkd0Sg28cq_bpzo_9tuTZGyf6Z8JhgN9Fnn8uksmOqbQRFOM_ddigUuNKFhDdnsj8NEvk5GM_HAfXacty/s320/101_1079.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Photo 4 - solder bundle completed</td></tr>
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Straighten the starting piece of solder, and centre it along the axis of the bundle, then feed it into the marker case so the starting piece protrudes where the nib used to be... this means the coils of solder will feed from the inside of the bundle, hopefully preventing tangles.<br />
Replace the end cap, and you can fold the protruding solder over the nib holder and replace the original cap.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUEWDy6iWC40nuG6A1AYU_XswcIoc6I1VJsv7GMe_JXoQ_dUPDUPHxaE1hhGOiCdqD_loJ9dNZPKCu0iTpbL6Rk12iXMd7ffl-LYtNC30ZdKOOVfI1s_PnE2SkTh-KN8j1wlIOfwUy9vn2/s1600/101_1081.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUEWDy6iWC40nuG6A1AYU_XswcIoc6I1VJsv7GMe_JXoQ_dUPDUPHxaE1hhGOiCdqD_loJ9dNZPKCu0iTpbL6Rk12iXMd7ffl-LYtNC30ZdKOOVfI1s_PnE2SkTh-KN8j1wlIOfwUy9vn2/s320/101_1081.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">photo 5 - Solder test inserted into marker body</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
In use, simply remove the cap, tug an inch or so of solder out, and apply solder as required by holding the marker body. As the protruding solder is consumed, simply tug more out of the marker body as required.<br />
<br />
I measured the weights of all my solder pens, and found they averaged 50gm (about 2 Oz) of solder in each one.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwkPZtu9vaEe0uf8IxOlBoewIYt2BXSw7gYbsi2vWf7auNWgjuLKTPy-ewabFX1sce9M6uDBG2uOb0Voy-yuEF-mGOLECCxHa3z-Wthkm-A5_H2pll-Z_-zR2eRRPRtm-eEeYc_sozQwKU/s1600/101_1085.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwkPZtu9vaEe0uf8IxOlBoewIYt2BXSw7gYbsi2vWf7auNWgjuLKTPy-ewabFX1sce9M6uDBG2uOb0Voy-yuEF-mGOLECCxHa3z-Wthkm-A5_H2pll-Z_-zR2eRRPRtm-eEeYc_sozQwKU/s320/101_1085.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Photo 6 - solder pens completed with other tools</td></tr>
</tbody></table>A bonus tip...<br />
When I was at uni, I got on to a bulk purchase of quality electronics tools - cost us $120 to get excellent tooling - a fortune back then. When I duplicated my kit into the field desk, I wanted similar shape and quality tools, but did not want to spend too much money.<br />
I purchased cheap pliers from the local KMart, and then using grinders, and files, reshaped them to suit my needs. In photo 6 you can see 2 pairs of pliers I've reshaped - the yellow handled pliers are just as good to use as the expensive ones in my old kit. The red ones are too small for use, but are handy for periodic use with the yellow pair for straightening or bending wire.<br />
<br />
What else to talk about....<br />
I finished the serial cable kits - Mk3 and Mk4 in total. Mounting boards, storage containers, etc. I've practically finished the user manual, and have only 2 sections left in the construction manual to finish... Mostly final edits in the sections, then renumbering the photos and illustrations. Still deciding if the documents should be published here or not, but I'll most likely add some of the construction photos at the minimum..<br />
<br />
Various things happening at work... not much to talk about yet, but I daresay I'll have something to talk about soon.des bromilowhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09894433410422774724noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8261361407257616190.post-6534972965009394932011-07-31T00:58:00.000-07:002011-08-16T05:34:47.086-07:00Serial Cable Kits - Mk1 to Mk4 - the answer for versatile industrial connectionNow for something a little different<br />
<br />
In my day job, connecting a PC (laptop) to various industrial devices is fairly common. As is typical of these types of devices (VVVFs, Sensors, CPUs, etc) each manufacturer will require a different cable pin-out for their devices, (and some like Siemens require different cables for different models)<br />
<br />
When I first started in my role, the "cable kit" comprised of a couple of cardboard boxes full of cables - each cable was around 1800mm (6') long, and sometimes labelled to say what it was used for.<br />
I consider that the "Mark 1 cable kit" - large clumsy, difficult to use, and quite heavy.<br />
<br />
I made up the "Serial Cable Kit" - this comprised a single full length DB9 straight through cable, and a number of "dongles" which were fitted to the end to change the internal wiring configuration. Each dongle was labelled, and an instruction book allowed the user to look up the device they intended connecting to, and the manual would tell them what cable and dongle combination to use - eg Siemens Masterdrive would require cable "C1" and Dongle "D2".<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-zmuvX0CtWm8FT8VUpAHgiaMyQ7Ru7m-2OZMXE5PkWaKhvAVywlCZ8KO7QQI9yJbDS2SKlBRbU7YJEhpmxbVoFQOu-t9Frh0SWP_19S6ne7N_8DrmJ9wgz__mMn99qXSapU7eu-PGb5af/s1600/101_1007.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-zmuvX0CtWm8FT8VUpAHgiaMyQ7Ru7m-2OZMXE5PkWaKhvAVywlCZ8KO7QQI9yJbDS2SKlBRbU7YJEhpmxbVoFQOu-t9Frh0SWP_19S6ne7N_8DrmJ9wgz__mMn99qXSapU7eu-PGb5af/s320/101_1007.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Photo 1 - Mk 2 Serial Cable kit in case</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
This system worked for a few years - it was well received by all who used it - a number of the kits were stolen, and other parts were added as new devices were added to the plant equipment.<br />
Since I made this kit from home, I tried to keep the costs as low as possible (using double ended connectors proved cheaper than using 2 DB9 head shells with a short intermediate cable), the carry case was one from the local K-Mart (Think Wallmart) and modified.<br />
The new kit was a considerable improvement over the original system, but after some time, and sick of fixing/ replacing missing parts, I decided a newer iteration was in order...<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4siD5215FfQQdVlGE5fqKGvNeeHZqpCRjf1wTPCaAZ16aDrOkMOSiB0j24csd9Ncn_vp-MuTYakw-cnE4WSTdEPa76RhROuUbTVdj1LRlmnIINhVhwtdkIqje2uwJyXrIMmzDQi070yYf/s1600/Mk2_concept.jpg" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4siD5215FfQQdVlGE5fqKGvNeeHZqpCRjf1wTPCaAZ16aDrOkMOSiB0j24csd9Ncn_vp-MuTYakw-cnE4WSTdEPa76RhROuUbTVdj1LRlmnIINhVhwtdkIqje2uwJyXrIMmzDQi070yYf/s320/Mk2_concept.jpg" width="269" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Figure 2 - Mk 2 Cable kit concept drawing</td></tr>
</tbody></table>If the box of cables was "Mk 1", then the original "Serial Cable kit" would have to be "Mk 2"... Mark 3 would need to be smaller again, cheaper, lighter, and more versatile...<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcsuj7HI4tIWVwFQcNi0_ZVniTNw2TCBGZuYwpGgzVbqZlb5nDSfNIzaUCvdpJkTofwUEDn3SS1UDwUUjctXhIEOP0zl4mTWzg3BJ-cFMVxFQCFZy1L6RumTZXU4g0xZ3BV82LG_IUcSZK/s1600/101_1008.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcsuj7HI4tIWVwFQcNi0_ZVniTNw2TCBGZuYwpGgzVbqZlb5nDSfNIzaUCvdpJkTofwUEDn3SS1UDwUUjctXhIEOP0zl4mTWzg3BJ-cFMVxFQCFZy1L6RumTZXU4g0xZ3BV82LG_IUcSZK/s320/101_1008.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Photo 3 - Mk2 cable and dongle on relevant instruction page</td></tr>
</tbody></table>The "Mk 2" dongles were 2 DB connectors separated by a distance of around 40mm (1 3/4") with the cores between being short lengths of flexible cable.. I could accomplish the same effect using a piece of bread board (electronic prototyping board) and a number of pre-terminated jumper wires. That would significantly reduce the weight, cost, and increase the versatility infinitely. I bought some cheap breadboards off the internet and got one of my spare straight through DB9-DB9 cables. I cut the cable at the PC end, at around 400mm. In use the breadboard area would need to be close to the laptop so it was supported, not hanging off the front of a panel in a substation.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixW4iHSwQAPVGj8JK8F4agb82BrG5xv0_HzSstTaiELzLwX0G30gYyAalw03O_We8iczapRUKly0vEL1GgW6YAZsCBFT27oQX2gzegCXQ_ev9HK10yJDedTT8BwwtuPwGTPfjkPRpPqlTP/s1600/101_1009.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixW4iHSwQAPVGj8JK8F4agb82BrG5xv0_HzSstTaiELzLwX0G30gYyAalw03O_We8iczapRUKly0vEL1GgW6YAZsCBFT27oQX2gzegCXQ_ev9HK10yJDedTT8BwwtuPwGTPfjkPRpPqlTP/s320/101_1009.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Photo 4 - Mk 2 Dongle with dongle schematic</td></tr>
</tbody></table>I belled out the pins and soldered the cores to a short length of header strip in order - pin 1 at the top, pin 9 at the bottom. This was repeated for the second length of the cable (around 1500mm (5') long.<br />
The two header strips were inserted into the breadboard with pin 1 in row 1, and the same on the other side of the center strip. - This gives each pin of the serial cable 4 holes to connect cables into - the same for each pin on the outbound cable.<br />
Using the diagrams in the Mk 2 instructions, I know I can rearrange the jumpers to make any combination of cable schematic, and I also know 4 holes per core is enough since the most any current dongle uses is 3 cores to one pin.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoPxP7nK7Ya6IJvsl_MWkD-yEh9FGJNo1c9baJ9zZC6ko80bqEx6NFM8RCb7QUYkCaFwONJQLxFpuOJ-snJwxrY9PSHFU5Ca5H8QImOFu9pu8iDzpSs-mUm9_2M7_SeAtKlvIzo9LuQ3OK/s1600/101_1010.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoPxP7nK7Ya6IJvsl_MWkD-yEh9FGJNo1c9baJ9zZC6ko80bqEx6NFM8RCb7QUYkCaFwONJQLxFpuOJ-snJwxrY9PSHFU5Ca5H8QImOFu9pu8iDzpSs-mUm9_2M7_SeAtKlvIzo9LuQ3OK/s320/101_1010.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Photo 5 - Mk 3 prototype configured as if Dongle 2 in place</td></tr>
</tbody></table>The shields from the two parts of the split cable are joined to the backing of the breadboard underneath - Once it passes all tests, the breadboard will be enclosed in a small metal tin to complete the shielding.<br />
<br />
The Mark 3 version sounds great doesn't it?... meets all requirements, how could it be made any better? - it can be.<br />
<br />
Mark 4 (or Mk IV if you prefer)<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5cTyuATRG4f_QjGi2uI3yFOwWLBZ7f9o_tfbyw0yZfpAv1cFw3j_iIcjuW-djH_k5JPDB8NXVXwgLss3av8s-xyPPCzrm1NxKvDswp1a4LZ5kkK9sTD66qlq8iL3J_8LXtm-tm3L07JAx/s1600/101_1011.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5cTyuATRG4f_QjGi2uI3yFOwWLBZ7f9o_tfbyw0yZfpAv1cFw3j_iIcjuW-djH_k5JPDB8NXVXwgLss3av8s-xyPPCzrm1NxKvDswp1a4LZ5kkK9sTD66qlq8iL3J_8LXtm-tm3L07JAx/s320/101_1011.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Photo 6 - Mk 4 "dongle" in place for Master drive communications</td></tr>
</tbody></table>Currently the Mk 2 kit has 12 dongles in it - these are used to access over 20 different devices on site. Imagine the scenario where you are working on a fault - you need to talk to a VVVF drive, then talk to an ultrasonic sensor, then back to the drive, then to the PLC CPU... with the Mk 2 kit, you simply changed dongles as you moved from device to device... With the mark 3 you would be constantly changing the jumpers... if you're tired, distracted, you could too easily make a mistake - you could damage equipment, or at least waste time complicating your own fault-finding strategy. I needed a way to make the Mk 3 system as easy to use as the Mk 2...<br />
The step to Mk4 was easy - simply use the existing breadboard to hold a "dongle" which had the jumper configuration in it. Make it removable, and make it "labelled". Immediately the concept of using a DIP IC socket sprang to mind. If I used a 18 pin DIP socket, that would give me 9 pins up one side, 9 up the other, and a small space in the middle to solder in the jumper configuration. The DIP socket has a notch for Pin 1 which can be used to ensure the correct orientation when inserting it, and I could pot in the jumpers to provide a space for a label.<br />
NB: I chose machine pin DIP socket since the pins are stronger and round - making them better for the breadboard when compared to typical cheap DIP IC sockets.<br />
<br />
I ordered a fistful of machine pin DIP 18 pin IC sockets from Futurelec (along with some other goodies) and started planning the next design. Once the sockets arrived, the first dongles were being made.<br />
<br />
Since I don't have a Siemens VVVF at home, I cannot show photos of the system in use, but if possible I will get one from work.<br />
<br />
In use the new kit will comprise of the Mk3 and Mk4 parts. The Mk3 cable and base forms the base kit, and 12 jumpers will be included for new or experimental equipment. The current manual will be re-written for the Mk4 "dongles" which will need to be renamed, and stored. This new kit has more versatility than the current kit, and is significantly cheaper to make up. Each "dongle" in the Mk 2 kit costs over $7 AUD, whereas each "dongle" in the Mk 4 kit costs $0.40 AUD. The new kit is much smaller, lighter to carry, and should be cheap enough to make as a "personal issue" tool - that last bit is handy to reduce theft and loss of parts.<br />
<br />
I keep talking about "versatility" - it's the ability of the kit to handle making a new configuration out in the field - The Mk 1 kit had none, the cables were made "as -is", the Mk 2 kit had one spare unassembled dongle of each configuration (M-M, M-F, F-F) in the kit to permit making a new dongle, whereas the Mk3 (and Mk4)have the breadboard space and jumpers to create new configuration cables on the fly.<br />
<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjA1ypUe_R6i4LXKRzBLw_r1KhshCvjDBP-jdzqnUXsF9L89DKZsgMWWfewM94JT0x-tiFdc2PCC7SmQMhuJ7_Ad1A2GT2JdV-mymjNoiH53Vt1f4BlgxDBX0trX-Be9LJ8FlmqW9x3D__9/s1600/101_1013.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjA1ypUe_R6i4LXKRzBLw_r1KhshCvjDBP-jdzqnUXsF9L89DKZsgMWWfewM94JT0x-tiFdc2PCC7SmQMhuJ7_Ad1A2GT2JdV-mymjNoiH53Vt1f4BlgxDBX0trX-Be9LJ8FlmqW9x3D__9/s320/101_1013.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Photo 7 - Showing size comparison for Mk 2 dongle and Mk 4 dongle</td></tr>
</tbody></table>So the Mk 3 and Mk 4 work on the same principle of changing pin assignments, the difference between the Mk 3/4 and the Mk 2 is that it's done "inside" the cable, and reduces the amount of needed hardware.<br />
<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6mmQAUvBz1ooI9FcN8pCyb5KfY_HzETv2pCWch84Fel6_5gX3P7UETciFhaWlpBuFBSYV5qrcmWtiHIncT7IZERCLP5BvBdMfc6geYq5qRWDKfiBC7IMMnf7Sh4rNTv7PxC1LmidbDpY3/s1600/Mk34_concept.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6mmQAUvBz1ooI9FcN8pCyb5KfY_HzETv2pCWch84Fel6_5gX3P7UETciFhaWlpBuFBSYV5qrcmWtiHIncT7IZERCLP5BvBdMfc6geYq5qRWDKfiBC7IMMnf7Sh4rNTv7PxC1LmidbDpY3/s320/Mk34_concept.jpg" width="269" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Figure 8 - Mk3 and Mk4 concept schematics</td></tr>
</tbody></table>There was one dongle which needed a special case... D12<br />
All other dongles in the Mk 2 kit terminate with either a male or female DB9 connector - the Mk3 and Mk4 kit has a female connector at the end of the cable, and a miniature gender bender included for when a male connection is required... but dongle "d12" however terminates with a RJ11 connection - this is used for the HMI AnyBus equipment.<br />
I had 2 options... option 1 was to reuse the existing "d12" dongle and simply have a "straight through" dongle for the breadboard... Option 2 is to have the 4 core cable for the RJ11 come off the "dongle" and leave the remaining 1500mm length of 9 core cable unterminated. I've made both, but look forward to testing option #2 since it makes for a more consistent approach.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQczhfo5THbhszoUqxxaIN1wpNIsOxtPsTJfIi70QrWz4W4HOxLaix_hiIO-GA8TpWh4XH_59sFqYgPF_YgLaBDNc9L0Oc5kJuaXd47ZAhx_gfNwYoi-k1TvW3skSVDUGKYGhi5q-mzT0E/s1600/101_1012.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQczhfo5THbhszoUqxxaIN1wpNIsOxtPsTJfIi70QrWz4W4HOxLaix_hiIO-GA8TpWh4XH_59sFqYgPF_YgLaBDNc9L0Oc5kJuaXd47ZAhx_gfNwYoi-k1TvW3skSVDUGKYGhi5q-mzT0E/s320/101_1012.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Photo 9 - Mk 4 version of Dongle "d12" for 4 core RJ11</td></tr>
</tbody></table>Some statistics (estimated where shown *) - excludes Siemens Simocode Pro cable and USB-RS232 Adapter from all comparisons - based on cables/ configurations to perform tasks of Mk 2 kit.<br />
<br />
Mk 1 kit - weighed 4000g*, volume 400x400x400mm* = 64L, cost ~$400-800 - No labels, no instructions, no versatility<br />
<br />
Mk 2 Kit - weighed 1800g, volume 360x290x70mm = 7.3L, cost ~$250 - Labelled, instructions, limited versatility<br />
<br />
Mk 3 Kit - Weighed 300g, volume 250x200x50 = 2.5L, cost ~$45 - No Labels, instructions, versatile<br />
<br />
Mk 4 Kit - Weighed 350g, volume 250x200x50 = 2.5L, cost ~$50 - Labels, instructions, versatile<br />
<br />
Labour? - all costs do NOT include assembly labour - I made the Mk 2 kits myself over the period of 2 weeks working 4 hours each night (7 kits) - I've made my own Mk 3 kit, and will complete the Mk 4 kit over the next week or so... what takes the longest is writing the instructions, and hand construction of the dongles. - you should allow between 15 and 30 mins per dongle based on intermediate hand skills.<br />
What's not shown in any of the photos is the base plate for the Mk 3/ 4 set - I'm still trying to design and construct a "flipper" to permit easy extraction of the IC sockets - I was using an IC extractor in testing, but would prefer something "captive" so it can't be lost. In the meanwhile testing continues with another piece of breadboard for the noise immunity of the Mk3 and Mk 4 designs.<br />
<br />
If you think this is a good idea and want to manufacture them - go for it - please give credit where due though... I do when I write the manuals.des bromilowhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09894433410422774724noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8261361407257616190.post-70349839282768276862011-06-25T03:36:00.000-07:002011-07-09T02:05:03.912-07:00Field desk - Part 7 - Carry strapI finished the field desk and took it for a walk up and down the driveway a few dozen times and decided that if I had to carry the field desk any significant distance, the handle would become uncomfortable quite quickly. I determined I'd need to fit a strap of some description...<br />
<br />
I designed a few options based around a quick dis-connectable strap which would have been based on an inset plate, with a "key-hole" shaped hole which would have allowed a strap to be connected without load, and lock in place under load. I planned on making this from the brass strip I have, and make a mushroom post to enable this function. Easily within the scope of my skills and materials, but the more I looked at the idea, something just felt wrong about it - still haven't figured out what.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjORE41vwTa52o1sj1ziW7hAkdR1Tst14rfWzgnrkTH77pVuNVpEIfbgxW7NqNW5Aq4hgvYNNnKuogm02B28VMnQKYpnyi5HDlYmxETdY0NfrEDGPIvqJwKPwgfotf5ZU-KVrJZLpToFPYJ/s1600/IMG_4981.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjORE41vwTa52o1sj1ziW7hAkdR1Tst14rfWzgnrkTH77pVuNVpEIfbgxW7NqNW5Aq4hgvYNNnKuogm02B28VMnQKYpnyi5HDlYmxETdY0NfrEDGPIvqJwKPwgfotf5ZU-KVrJZLpToFPYJ/s320/IMG_4981.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Figure 1 - Front view of desk with carry strap as if carried</td></tr>
</tbody></table>Under further consideration, I figured it might be easier to make a strap which would fully support the desk from the bottom, and also the sides - the previously mentioned solution would have used the top edges of the sides to carry the weight. I designed a strap which essentially followed a path under the base, up each side, and up over my shoulder. A "waist" strap would go around the desk in the horizontal plane, and have a clasp to permit it to open on the door side.<br />
A few lengths of salvaged seatbelt material, a clasp from an old salvaged life-jacket and about one hour on the sewing machine and this is the result...<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhs4sMmYGOzJdkyxyTIJndAOMJDqn2ju8GZWJOowoXxapz69iGvaP7Oe1Q9CWEejpxJ2IOdipBeXvaTwN6Tap-mkqtux9UQ64esP8OKtx0PFyR7IA8U3s4wZ5p0Ocxo9vIKXiStDiHAaTU1/s1600/IMG_4982.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhs4sMmYGOzJdkyxyTIJndAOMJDqn2ju8GZWJOowoXxapz69iGvaP7Oe1Q9CWEejpxJ2IOdipBeXvaTwN6Tap-mkqtux9UQ64esP8OKtx0PFyR7IA8U3s4wZ5p0Ocxo9vIKXiStDiHAaTU1/s320/IMG_4982.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Figure 2 - Side view of desk in carry strap as if carried</td></tr>
</tbody></table>Since none of the lengths of seatbelt material were long enough, I made the bottom strap as one piece, and added a brass "adjuster" at each end to permit attachment and adjustment of the shoulder strap. These adjusters were made from (50x75x3mm) 2" x3" x 1/8" brass strip. A sliding dog was made from offcuts of the same strip brass.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjn3r0aP8iDxZ-EUrhaczl3hQERxGSHTU6JrxPkbj7aPHFSAmbx9QpOikkfiZUe328FvxBkNdH-GJyljArQQH0ZBKzai8Ju6fwzu9ZdjYxxbw5KIFigLGp2Zfw0C0cFMx69WJK8_CqEd9mE/s1600/IMG_4983.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjn3r0aP8iDxZ-EUrhaczl3hQERxGSHTU6JrxPkbj7aPHFSAmbx9QpOikkfiZUe328FvxBkNdH-GJyljArQQH0ZBKzai8Ju6fwzu9ZdjYxxbw5KIFigLGp2Zfw0C0cFMx69WJK8_CqEd9mE/s320/IMG_4983.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Figure 3 - Front view, close up of clasp</td></tr>
</tbody></table>A piece of scrap denim was sewed in behind the clasp to reduce it rubbing into the paintwork of the desk, and all sewing was done with over-sewn double runs, and polyester thread.<br />
The strap can be left in place and the door easily lowered, or just as easily totally removed, and reinstalled when it's time to move the desk.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi08ZeSPFdFp921UGY67eg1poFpWZkCEifj1lRHvZU5DilT5tVC5BWcu3azGdPafEHdiDQxIW5BBgPbCIY1-8w_ZjJFjbtCPGCOVq73oxnS3py8zKV1363k7uoaej-wl22m1a4_K0_3sjql/s1600/IMG_4984.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi08ZeSPFdFp921UGY67eg1poFpWZkCEifj1lRHvZU5DilT5tVC5BWcu3azGdPafEHdiDQxIW5BBgPbCIY1-8w_ZjJFjbtCPGCOVq73oxnS3py8zKV1363k7uoaej-wl22m1a4_K0_3sjql/s320/IMG_4984.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Figure 4 - Front view of desk with strap unloaded on top</td></tr>
</tbody></table>When I collected the seatbelt material from the training cars (what was left of them) I found one car had those detachable seatbelt pads - Given the final weight of the filled and complete desk, I elected to place those seatbelt pads on the shoulder strap to even the load and reduce any chance of bruising from carrying the desk for a long time. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhX0OQE4qQF44sDNXHcWn_dpsti9EH_fcL7O-4SYto9ZXVzfIt00SVGP53F1b9N8ZyEJKRW4N6Y0OCkUWZOGnms8vmBsibeDgFsjBz5TfpOS4w2AExRZYmvFNHh9T_WNwah6P5e9sG7PaT3/s1600/IMG_4985.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhX0OQE4qQF44sDNXHcWn_dpsti9EH_fcL7O-4SYto9ZXVzfIt00SVGP53F1b9N8ZyEJKRW4N6Y0OCkUWZOGnms8vmBsibeDgFsjBz5TfpOS4w2AExRZYmvFNHh9T_WNwah6P5e9sG7PaT3/s320/IMG_4985.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Figure 5 - Front view with clasp undone to permit door opening</td></tr>
</tbody></table>A lesson learnt on this construction - when sewing seatbelt material, the upper thread tension on the sewing machine needs to be increased - otherwise the lower side threads all bunch up - my guess is the thickness and weave of the belting makes it harder for the thread to pull up enough under normal thread tension. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyZP4dkEToWjuWvK4CJXq8OtGp5zBj32PTHZau77LsXnDym_YP4Vvv_TuYr1CMerVe4LkJsxbLEEZDZxO7dOwTi_G3sdQ1v_tfLDPaYt5wtufTHENOjDd-4l_GetZ4QInK62jdc3ecn5Il/s1600/IMG_4986.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyZP4dkEToWjuWvK4CJXq8OtGp5zBj32PTHZau77LsXnDym_YP4Vvv_TuYr1CMerVe4LkJsxbLEEZDZxO7dOwTi_G3sdQ1v_tfLDPaYt5wtufTHENOjDd-4l_GetZ4QInK62jdc3ecn5Il/s320/IMG_4986.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Figure 6 - Door open with DPScope on desk surface</td></tr>
</tbody></table>The last photo is of the DPscope I purchased with some recognition money I recieved (a program they do at work to recognise efforts put in by staff) - The DPscope is a DSO scope which connectes to a PC via USB and has 2 channel capability. Since it only arrived yesterday, I haven't had time to play with it yet, but will do so over the next week - hopefully.<br />
<br />
That is it for the strap - hopefully I won't need to carry it far that often, but now I can. I don't know what the next article sets will be - I've heaps of books to review, many projects in the WIP box (WIP = Work In Progress), and a lot on my plate outside the shed. This past week has been a series of quite long days, and in the next 2-3 weeks I hope it will bear fruit in many forms - the least of which will be my Cert 2 in Emergency Response... the rest - that's my secret for now.des bromilowhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09894433410422774724noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8261361407257616190.post-63992160990269241942011-06-17T03:52:00.000-07:002011-06-17T03:52:08.920-07:00Field desk -Part 6 - contentsThe contents of the field desk reflect it's intended purpose.. a portable electronics experimental/prototyping workstation.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitiskxL4PJY3_DYap4X98bREa659mylZXP4C-7yB-WchO1wpGV7JkIHXchQ_OcCOaGtH5gnZyE0_4W5ForIuV2ApvLOWz3CLwLFicIDCLx04fPyOId9DDwrx69zG-Gd6xTo1XqF1ThC9fl/s1600/101_0993.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitiskxL4PJY3_DYap4X98bREa659mylZXP4C-7yB-WchO1wpGV7JkIHXchQ_OcCOaGtH5gnZyE0_4W5ForIuV2ApvLOWz3CLwLFicIDCLx04fPyOId9DDwrx69zG-Gd6xTo1XqF1ThC9fl/s320/101_0993.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Figure 1 - Desk opened</td></tr>
</tbody></table>The bottom shelf (LHS) contains 2 deep containers - the bottom containing tools (pliers, strippers, third-hand, soldering tools, etc) whilst the top container houses the current project, some breadboard, veroboards, etc - This container should be fairly empty since I won't want my project being damaged.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheLQq9xZrFJ-EzciggW9ms9CDenkVChPcjdzfiXXZloCfkMNFmKkxz3FxZHC-srqbNKyvIRcjOfjGT313jcagUaXTUPhanJJe2Oj-JSQfrQRofRECrgpvVr0Ii1KHbVMNE7TQReflgu4Tf/s1600/101_0994.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheLQq9xZrFJ-EzciggW9ms9CDenkVChPcjdzfiXXZloCfkMNFmKkxz3FxZHC-srqbNKyvIRcjOfjGT313jcagUaXTUPhanJJe2Oj-JSQfrQRofRECrgpvVr0Ii1KHbVMNE7TQReflgu4Tf/s320/101_0994.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Figure 2 - bottom containers out - light in place and IEC cord inserted</td></tr>
</tbody></table>The middle shelf (LHS) contains 4 shallow containers - each of the type which has movable dividers. One container is filled with Resistors, another with capacitors and some mixed semis (BC (NPN and PNP), diodes, MOSFETs, 555/556, opamps,regulators, etc) The next unit has mix of parts including variable resistors, LEDs, header strips, sockets, buttons, switches... a bit of a grab bag of useful stuff. The last container contains the PICAXE chips (08M, 18M2, 28X1) plus other minor bits and pieces.<br />
I am going to have to modify at least one of these containers so the keypad, and LCD screens can fit in there - currently they're in the "Projects" container.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCs5p2cTGcrat85ZtIUPNz8qj2abwz0f4ReX_43q8wRJLgzegB7gLDxvTYfA4puBfFewRiHaGV5uRln6oqlRuS7Sndz8DHkrOruy35k_Ly0YU7VZZf64C0VjekFc4ch9AhshLUE-n3lbgX/s1600/101_0995.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCs5p2cTGcrat85ZtIUPNz8qj2abwz0f4ReX_43q8wRJLgzegB7gLDxvTYfA4puBfFewRiHaGV5uRln6oqlRuS7Sndz8DHkrOruy35k_Ly0YU7VZZf64C0VjekFc4ch9AhshLUE-n3lbgX/s320/101_0995.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Figure 3 - component trays out on display</td></tr>
</tbody></table>The top shelf/drawer (LHS) is for documentation and software. It will also contain the USB/Serial adapter, connection cable, and a USB thumb drive for software. I plan on being able to use my work laptop when I'm in accomodation, or my shed PC when I'm at home. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieCPR0oDXp5wSuuranIbUWgBvlWaCtgUnVmXnWjujIec6YOjXay_D8mio_7vjKJjcgdkVnWB4O57-F1vw98FoAOhajiMCpaNuhUxS2soyWCmwrJTIemnv13qebipGJQs2JFgBNZn52y5Gd/s1600/101_0996.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieCPR0oDXp5wSuuranIbUWgBvlWaCtgUnVmXnWjujIec6YOjXay_D8mio_7vjKJjcgdkVnWB4O57-F1vw98FoAOhajiMCpaNuhUxS2soyWCmwrJTIemnv13qebipGJQs2JFgBNZn52y5Gd/s320/101_0996.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Figure 4 - Top drawer</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjyZiSbDwxaueeEtW1RV5NQaVmBGYqFQTsaWbhRVLyguM6kQqQayJ0HBG0wbkMUR5e59idb4lzzKS47S07EjDyGAaNprVuia6X2KfNfz6A577F_cmtbeXSoZlni6fRrTMKDTEnSNOVpLRQ/s1600/101_0997.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhjyZiSbDwxaueeEtW1RV5NQaVmBGYqFQTsaWbhRVLyguM6kQqQayJ0HBG0wbkMUR5e59idb4lzzKS47S07EjDyGAaNprVuia6X2KfNfz6A577F_cmtbeXSoZlni6fRrTMKDTEnSNOVpLRQ/s320/101_0997.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Figure 5 - light stowage area, and soldering station in box</td></tr>
</tbody></table>The RHS compartment (under the power box) houses the 58W soldering station I bought on Ebay. Above that is a old lunch container filled with various colours and grades of hookup cable. Some of the cable is Cat5 solid cable - useful for breadboarding and veroboard work, some is stranded cable salvaged from various sources, stripped and coiled in... there are a couple of sizes of cables so I can build for signal, and power requirements.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPFdIaWLtjxMmPHdLBtCXyvvdlSFRjX_cna4wTHsU_i3haQGrDHpghgDxgXq_pvkZmwYvkZOJYAmeot0sqMj43Oi538C25u3DYVe6GaHTIoBSXvO99mVDWqz4qUgaJLlOuS-V70iBHQzcc/s1600/101_0998.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPFdIaWLtjxMmPHdLBtCXyvvdlSFRjX_cna4wTHsU_i3haQGrDHpghgDxgXq_pvkZmwYvkZOJYAmeot0sqMj43Oi538C25u3DYVe6GaHTIoBSXvO99mVDWqz4qUgaJLlOuS-V70iBHQzcc/s320/101_0998.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Figure 6 - Cable container, and spare trays on open door/desk</td></tr>
</tbody></table>Stats for the finished project..<br />
Size - 600mm W x 450mm H x 300mm D (24" x 18" x 12")<br />
Weight (loaded) = 15Kg (~33 lb)<br />
DC supplies - -12, -5, 3.3, 5, 12 volts with total power output of up to 450W - input is 240VAC at 0.8A normal, but up to 10A for GPO loads.<br />
Build time = Cabinet and sheet-metal construction - 4 days, painting (not including drying time) and trimming = 2 days.<br />
<br />
The objective of the desk is to be able to work on projects, learning or simple construction, in a self contained environment. When I leave my roster, I simply stow the desk in a secure location, and take with me a thumbdrive, and "lunch box" containing the finished project to take home. The thumbdrive will contain the copies of source code, etc, and a shopping list of parts to collect and bring back with me on my next roster. The notebook, and code copies in my laptop will remind me where I'm up to upon my return. <br />
<br />
Next postings.... hard to say - I've a few work and community commitments which will prevent me taking on any new projects. I have already started cleaning up the shed (while the varnish and paint was drying) and packing away some gear in preparation for these commitments. Over the next couple of months I hope to get these upcoming changes and commitments settled in, and then get back into the swing of designing, and completing these projects... believe me, the "to do list" is not getting any shorter.des bromilowhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09894433410422774724noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8261361407257616190.post-32238465705356139682011-06-17T03:05:00.000-07:002011-07-03T16:39:12.825-07:00Field desk - part 5 - Painting and trim<b>The painting and trimming of the field desk.</b><br />
Painting was straightforward...<br />
Undercoat,<br />
filling,<br />
masking and<br />
top coats of "Bender grey" (the darker grey used to paint Bender's arms and legs)<br />
<br />
In keeping with the Futurama theme, and tying in the fact that this desk is designed and made for use in electronics and microprocessor experimentation, I decided to theme the trim on the concept of the desk being a "Momcorp" product, a prototyping/ repair kit for Momcorp products using microprocessors.<br />
From that concept, it wasn't too hard to look at this as an "Experimental Brain Surgery Kit" (Always wanted a tool box with that written on it!!!) for robots and robotic devices.<br />
<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgj9PZnrKztRnN210JfKmEDRh5Lr02jPHXa1bx_pQrBvLbPia002HaIMTQ7a-W7Ynk5XcoV-RBXvOA74HLyRKo5wvUV4vDZvd0Wnfze1vArbahLHiyjFhq4LxmLFNPXkgKNJ2HSiisS_HZM/s1600/101_0974.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgj9PZnrKztRnN210JfKmEDRh5Lr02jPHXa1bx_pQrBvLbPia002HaIMTQ7a-W7Ynk5XcoV-RBXvOA74HLyRKo5wvUV4vDZvd0Wnfze1vArbahLHiyjFhq4LxmLFNPXkgKNJ2HSiisS_HZM/s320/101_0974.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Figure 1 - Momcorp logo pages drying after clear-coating and spraypainting</td></tr>
</tbody></table>I created a version of the Momcorp logo (The nicer one, not the authoritarian vertical MOM one) and decoupaged it to the front and back of the desk. I printed the logo I made on the thinnest paper I could find, then spray painted the back white to increase the opacity - I clear coated the front to stop the ink running.<br />
<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXD1mIqWIvBGv07TNrNtcAERNt4dLfQ5Jh9Nvreysk8tUGDa44HH3FkVS06wVR_ke7pDg9z2Q3LrGGqodrIP5SlAn081wRGlsiIPoMtaJAMKBW4uOLxDezXKz6xv9lkUg3EiGoOXYJa6rS/s1600/101_0979.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhXD1mIqWIvBGv07TNrNtcAERNt4dLfQ5Jh9Nvreysk8tUGDa44HH3FkVS06wVR_ke7pDg9z2Q3LrGGqodrIP5SlAn081wRGlsiIPoMtaJAMKBW4uOLxDezXKz6xv9lkUg3EiGoOXYJa6rS/s320/101_0979.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Figure 2 - Decoupaged logo on door of field desk</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
I then got to thinking... if I was in the year 3xxx and a technician, I wouldn't leave my travelling toolbox looking so bland. It would have stickers on it .... <br />
<ul><li>from places I'd been authorised into (HAL institute for criminally insane robots), </li>
<li>stickers from products (Mom's old fashioned robot oil, bachelor chow, slurm), </li>
<li>stickers which reflected the world around me (political, social fads, social commentary, humourous), </li>
<li>and at least somewhere I'd have my name.</li>
</ul>Based on that, I started cruising the internet finding images from the show, and editing them into a sticker style format. I found a few in that "cafepress" site which were already done, and used their look as my template. I downloaded a few fonts, and made a few (how I made the Momcorp logo) and then printed them in my inkjet printer.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjahyphenhyphenLyZEOxiQg0_vmXZZUZr9iGkWPFk_fLZW_I3odV8qUr5TRed6V6o8oW24KZKAMKWac3kn3WD4ux8CwYbZtxbKa5OhuHiiOh4LIdwCqDGur-9bXfSX7eZj0yJqN6HFHq9d_2vXtSP8GW/s1600/101_0982.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjahyphenhyphenLyZEOxiQg0_vmXZZUZr9iGkWPFk_fLZW_I3odV8qUr5TRed6V6o8oW24KZKAMKWac3kn3WD4ux8CwYbZtxbKa5OhuHiiOh4LIdwCqDGur-9bXfSX7eZj0yJqN6HFHq9d_2vXtSP8GW/s320/101_0982.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Figure 3 - several pages of "stickers" drying after painting</td></tr>
</tbody></table>All of the "stickers" where clear coated over (to stop the inkjet ink running when varnished), and most were spray-painted white from the back to improve the contrast and opacity - but not all. A few of the images were deliberately scuffed and aged just to add a "worn look" to them. - given the less than perfect cabinetry, a few bumps and scratches here and there will be well and truly "in character: A couple of the stickers were not painted white from the back so they'd appear to be made from newsprint paper... just for variety.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzDm_xQi8CsosyjWPs7IitXz76U9kvhpmjrWwTTWRhOWtUT_TtOtkgkXG3vy6rGme8cnYBGOmS23ODxcuDrTFRjyDNQyqt5dS9ZLAkns_Z-UbY9TLz0Tz44rk9HM3wtweeFphTk9Nw3yLE/s1600/101_0984.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzDm_xQi8CsosyjWPs7IitXz76U9kvhpmjrWwTTWRhOWtUT_TtOtkgkXG3vy6rGme8cnYBGOmS23ODxcuDrTFRjyDNQyqt5dS9ZLAkns_Z-UbY9TLz0Tz44rk9HM3wtweeFphTk9Nw3yLE/s320/101_0984.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Figure 4 - Back of Field desk with stickers applied</td></tr>
</tbody></table>Stickers include: The vitruvian robot drawing, robo-fresh, the feminista bumper sticker, WWZJD.....<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj31oYIKn800slEStoYfP4Z2dhe-_8Lbg-U3M7lDsWiJb207mPECHfZhQRoaI3kEpJv5zuKhcBhBY6HwBVuUNeyBCLELF-OxLZewHJf1aT_f4EWYsY-n6qnsn54ccW_Wt2zC1Vl6hvHFVoy/s1600/101_0985.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj31oYIKn800slEStoYfP4Z2dhe-_8Lbg-U3M7lDsWiJb207mPECHfZhQRoaI3kEpJv5zuKhcBhBY6HwBVuUNeyBCLELF-OxLZewHJf1aT_f4EWYsY-n6qnsn54ccW_Wt2zC1Vl6hvHFVoy/s320/101_0985.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Figure 5 - Door of Field desk (Outer side)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>several Slurm stickers, Mars University, Scary Door, a binary expression....<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgN246W5QNsLMSZwPzPoKBNJHu1DOTHg8TuB8CK5asLytApmTI8aFV4hQI3xJfVJeiUcr3GRHAQ72Mp722mcw1xbnkSkNn5WwTVPNzJtpqlMzA5z1NRky8DAHEoYwoHTfRHLrc9iMZ0LWwe/s1600/101_0986.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgN246W5QNsLMSZwPzPoKBNJHu1DOTHg8TuB8CK5asLytApmTI8aFV4hQI3xJfVJeiUcr3GRHAQ72Mp722mcw1xbnkSkNn5WwTVPNzJtpqlMzA5z1NRky8DAHEoYwoHTfRHLrc9iMZ0LWwe/s320/101_0986.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Figure 6 - LHS of Field Desk</td></tr>
</tbody></table>Nixon's reelection campaign poster, robot oil sticker, "I love Snu-Snu" bumper sticker (who doesn't?)....<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvnoXTL3u8XDYQFCLKpCKKMiQ_-9FPnHFhQFtB0tyPomw8hZnNoPzNJnhQibO4B0sMY3LVVCvbOlFDJeNMdLRkpPcFtpVqZBcWkibBxI2b8EaSTkSM46h616_XfekF9F81JHvc6w2hwEyT/s1600/101_0987.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvnoXTL3u8XDYQFCLKpCKKMiQ_-9FPnHFhQFtB0tyPomw8hZnNoPzNJnhQibO4B0sMY3LVVCvbOlFDJeNMdLRkpPcFtpVqZBcWkibBxI2b8EaSTkSM46h616_XfekF9F81JHvc6w2hwEyT/s320/101_0987.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Figure 7 - RHS of Field desk</td></tr>
</tbody></table>A hypno-toad sticker, a trekkie bumper sticker, robot oil ad, more slurm.....<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0741qJ4o32NmJywvx8KRw7-hsUDhmTz_K1jfoJauaPH-X2RDR8GYKB7aL03XQpv9mSEIhz2_vDWfGLjpeuNnHn8IJmtu1ZEZYB05oOKjBHIf9o1KIl7ihBoi_zDVCSUPMfG_mdGlULVai/s1600/101_0988.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0741qJ4o32NmJywvx8KRw7-hsUDhmTz_K1jfoJauaPH-X2RDR8GYKB7aL03XQpv9mSEIhz2_vDWfGLjpeuNnHn8IJmtu1ZEZYB05oOKjBHIf9o1KIl7ihBoi_zDVCSUPMfG_mdGlULVai/s320/101_0988.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Figure 8 - Top of Field desk, including "protest sticker"</td></tr>
</tbody></table>more Slurm (it really is addictive!!!), the Earthican flag, a "Morbo" bumper sticker, HAL institute sticker, a NNY sticker, and a "protest sticker".<br />
The protest sticker was written up in the Futurama "alien" font - it's the font used throughout the show. I won't give out the meaning, but it's a very well known sentiment amongst those whom nanny-states will try and govern.<br />
<br />
That's it for the trim - I did have a bachelor chow sticker, but it got damaged during painting (Wind got it while it was wet) - I was going to put a DOOP sticker on as well, but it was starting to look cluttered... we'll see.<br />
<br />
All that's left now it to show the unit with the contents in it. That article is as much for the PICAXE forum as any other groups since they helped me with the shopping list of things going in there.des bromilowhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09894433410422774724noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8261361407257616190.post-64373870269285463172011-06-16T06:02:00.000-07:002011-06-16T06:02:05.115-07:00Field desk - part 4 - Tray and lighting (additional information)A little more information on the lighting, and a quick article concerning the tray for the top shelf.<br />
<br />
About 5 minutes after finishing part 3 of this series, I was filing the folder for that article when I found the additional photos I took as part of the lighting design...<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBqLYdJy_XHXhEGz7xFrzL5c07omk5DBOtRInhhkVNBSCninGW7RGwgYQ61Us2zOzLWNcRV2XSnia6DDdE7Kxyw2rhIuy__bMjK7FB4V6YeNWKczj28kKFWCc1nR15rrARJ7BJ_6eL8F95/s1600/101_0833.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhBqLYdJy_XHXhEGz7xFrzL5c07omk5DBOtRInhhkVNBSCninGW7RGwgYQ61Us2zOzLWNcRV2XSnia6DDdE7Kxyw2rhIuy__bMjK7FB4V6YeNWKczj28kKFWCc1nR15rrARJ7BJ_6eL8F95/s320/101_0833.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Figure 1 - Lamps tested for use in the desk - LED lamp on left, incandescent on right</td></tr>
</tbody></table>Photos of the two lights I trialed, including the LED lamp I used in this project, and a photo of the desk with a piece of DIN rail used to measure length and placement of the lamp.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQCm7igzDOB-pKftUfR8zzK9VgQ0T5FBkwU04usp93EzvBQQ6th39GOz1aWVyDTRL_L2NgqmJIS0Uf4OlMuF1ryit7BQ_Zv99XNFTZSVc5sfyYokd4DFdKutqptJgLZ3CVthm5J78Wjrr2/s1600/101_0894.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQCm7igzDOB-pKftUfR8zzK9VgQ0T5FBkwU04usp93EzvBQQ6th39GOz1aWVyDTRL_L2NgqmJIS0Uf4OlMuF1ryit7BQ_Zv99XNFTZSVc5sfyYokd4DFdKutqptJgLZ3CVthm5J78Wjrr2/s320/101_0894.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Figure 2 - Trial of lamp placement using DIN rail</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
<b>Paper Tray - Top Drawer</b><br />
The other photos in this article cover the construction of a "paper tray" which is designed to fill the top shelf of the field desk. I plan on keeping an A4 notebook, CDR (with manuals), a couple of pens, etc in that shelf. The easiest way to achieve this is to have a drawer.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUfPBWkNyt8bUzGxjcUfCcStC7-ckzocCfYTsKoZdsBuzKOqRUT9e3nc0ow_8Ms9lg33XVd5yQzrpIo6vhXE-YvEJLONAMJeR7FxgAE4vOPSW-MGDGyRHR_xeXHLMDk6oV8NW2aALF243K/s1600/101_0973.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUfPBWkNyt8bUzGxjcUfCcStC7-ckzocCfYTsKoZdsBuzKOqRUT9e3nc0ow_8Ms9lg33XVd5yQzrpIo6vhXE-YvEJLONAMJeR7FxgAE4vOPSW-MGDGyRHR_xeXHLMDk6oV8NW2aALF243K/s320/101_0973.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Figure 3 - Sheet metal cut out, prior to folding</td></tr>
</tbody></table>The paper tray is simply folded up from sheet metal (more of my salvaged colourbond "signwhite") to make a simple tray, with a folded top edge on three sides, and one extended edge on the front. This extended edge forms a handle which allows the drawer to be pulled out from the shelf.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyA42L8qcitK2UerbwxUigHXNF0yNZvlTU1zkVnmsiMrVt24ebzyuyXJHG3VIWkSBdYZDcWaYVFr-ELvA0hQY9-kCcxK5b1HrztYafVxVd2mhBlQFrSIct8Mm1Bt5ayc-gAvJdSJ3DMotn/s1600/101_0980.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjyA42L8qcitK2UerbwxUigHXNF0yNZvlTU1zkVnmsiMrVt24ebzyuyXJHG3VIWkSBdYZDcWaYVFr-ELvA0hQY9-kCcxK5b1HrztYafVxVd2mhBlQFrSIct8Mm1Bt5ayc-gAvJdSJ3DMotn/s320/101_0980.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Figure 4 - Drawer in place on shelf</td></tr>
</tbody></table>Since I haven't had the time to build a finger brake yet (still on the ever growing "things to do" list), I did all folds using the clamp over bar, wood and hammer method. One thing I found during that exercise was that you shouldn't hammer anything whilst you have a cold - all it does is screw up your inner ear whilst your sinuses are stuffed - Not a nice sensation.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfTBV6F4gBRKQkRQCyBLCD4xxBsBHOSwKIxmqJhi-lYf3td-uYwsp4_HWoquhOfeHLsmXUbDnUd60BTcmM8VEVPGiKXMbL4tDi6vGCrKyrtgEusE-qRi66fmurzXZN5dQID95US-FmW_MK/s1600/101_0981.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfTBV6F4gBRKQkRQCyBLCD4xxBsBHOSwKIxmqJhi-lYf3td-uYwsp4_HWoquhOfeHLsmXUbDnUd60BTcmM8VEVPGiKXMbL4tDi6vGCrKyrtgEusE-qRi66fmurzXZN5dQID95US-FmW_MK/s320/101_0981.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Figure 5 - drawer painted</td></tr>
</tbody></table>Once folded up, a couple of pop rivets to hold it all together and then it's painted up in "Bender Grey". In fact the entire exterior of the desk will be painted "Bender Grey" and will carry a suitable theme in the trimmings.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEielI3mP6wJzBYzrkljcusPFNEEdxebQ-L6E5MWsznzDs77-CBzMuKiciLkDfBaD6fdiUH7uV1vrZN1fpkjMTpi4V-B6D0h_BGLG_dzzokxhPF-bbmswDfDr1N8FKId9mGiYiMrPRSH_MUw/s1600/101_0983.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEielI3mP6wJzBYzrkljcusPFNEEdxebQ-L6E5MWsznzDs77-CBzMuKiciLkDfBaD6fdiUH7uV1vrZN1fpkjMTpi4V-B6D0h_BGLG_dzzokxhPF-bbmswDfDr1N8FKId9mGiYiMrPRSH_MUw/s320/101_0983.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Figure 6 - Finished drawer showing folded handle on LHS</td></tr>
</tbody></table>The painting and trim of the field desk itself will be the next article, then all that's left is a brief discussion about contents and that project is complete.des bromilowhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09894433410422774724noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8261361407257616190.post-87808394093403164312011-06-16T05:16:00.000-07:002011-07-09T01:59:09.222-07:00Field desk - part 3 - Electrical System and lighting<b>Electrical services into, and within, the field desk.</b><br />
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Electrically speaking, the field desk will have one power lead into the desk, with a double switched GPO, and a variety of DC power sources available. A task light will also feature in the design.<br />
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<b>Electrical enclosure</b><br />
<br />
The electrical enclosure was designed to contain all components, and attach in the top of the RHS bay. The front panel will contain all interfaces - plugs, switches, etc. The original design was to use an old PSU from a 1900 series switch, but upon checking the PSU, it was found to have some of it's pins non-commissioned (-12V and - 5V) - thank fully the size of the enclosure was dictated by the GPO, and banana sockets, this meant I had room to look at alternate options.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiz-Bbmd6z433cJOo-EZtyX0Ru_TsIx-UtYZDrAMjAiUwc_R1kvIQtk6RnCr7Nd-mCYGf3fS9Q5pMHDvOlxzrLBMTHDxUbDIW4g6G_bjGN71a0vHxgZEl9yqBW0u73KiE2fSBspJuV4EhE/s1600/101_0902.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiz-Bbmd6z433cJOo-EZtyX0Ru_TsIx-UtYZDrAMjAiUwc_R1kvIQtk6RnCr7Nd-mCYGf3fS9Q5pMHDvOlxzrLBMTHDxUbDIW4g6G_bjGN71a0vHxgZEl9yqBW0u73KiE2fSBspJuV4EhE/s320/101_0902.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Figure 1 - Basic Enclosure unpainted</td></tr>
</tbody></table>The front panel holds all connections, and has the receptacle for the light in the top RHS. - The receptacle is simply a short piece of DIN rail, and the lamp holder sits inside the rail.<br />
The front panel of the power box is made of 3-4mm thick plexiglass, drilled, cut filed to hold the GPO, IEC socket, and banana posts. To prevent scratches showing on this panel, I marked the terminal values on from the back, and then spray painted over them from the back - this means the paint cannot be scratched from outside the case. Interesting note was when the paint dried, I could suddenly see this invisible cracks around the banana posts - it looks almost surreal to see "reversed cracks" filled with paint.<br />
The enclosure is designed to sit in the top of the field desk, therefore all ventilation is through the floor (or the front) - I simply replaced the floor with some punched mesh, and then used sheet metal shields to redirect any airflows from the back, through the PSU fan, through the PSU, and then into the front section, through the enclosure floor. Each "side" of the PSU has around 12 sq inches of floor vent available to induct, or expel air.<br />
The enclosure (power box) is held in the top of the desk by means of some brackets, and a folded lip at the back. None of the retaining hardware obscures the ventilation grid, and removal of the power box is accomplished with the removal of one screw, since the forward brackets tilt to permit removal.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPGrYZAZtRop7r9DX4jCvlhq4nmxZWcHs6e48oZHetCg0PWhp-hqmgFBnPc-i48DvrPDPvqNf_zghfGFpmBj0eJOvAOO85KENNLAddLYoKyNX-fEHqE0vPzigeWR0YHrvXhpLBHwJaz-8M/s1600/101_0903.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPGrYZAZtRop7r9DX4jCvlhq4nmxZWcHs6e48oZHetCg0PWhp-hqmgFBnPc-i48DvrPDPvqNf_zghfGFpmBj0eJOvAOO85KENNLAddLYoKyNX-fEHqE0vPzigeWR0YHrvXhpLBHwJaz-8M/s320/101_0903.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Figure 2 - Close up of front panel, with first sheet metal divider removed</td></tr>
</tbody></table>The only parts of the enclosure which are painted are those parts visible in normal use - ie the front panel/s, and the bottom. The sides were deliberately not painted since the paint would simply rub off on the walls of the cabinet during insertion, or removal.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgM5gI1mHEBXFT09oz6kzzB-KtWT-EzlWbNssRoaLU53cGpPu0YVmS3Od7AHVrWlZugeMxMWrWsnFDDcLIDOLSeJh9LY_1qDtTHRbB_Bi_HAqYxXFz55vxTdU46f9PMgxVNZTwQFlhD7XB8/s1600/101_0963.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgM5gI1mHEBXFT09oz6kzzB-KtWT-EzlWbNssRoaLU53cGpPu0YVmS3Od7AHVrWlZugeMxMWrWsnFDDcLIDOLSeJh9LY_1qDtTHRbB_Bi_HAqYxXFz55vxTdU46f9PMgxVNZTwQFlhD7XB8/s320/101_0963.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Figure 3 - Mesh base to enclosure used for ventilation of PSU</td></tr>
</tbody></table><b>Lighting</b><br />
A 12V LED lamp was purchased from the local variety store (KMart) - I had looked at an incandescent lamp, but compared to the LED lamp, it was pale and yellow. I considered one of the halogen lamps I use when I sew, but they do throw some heat, and I considered that would not be wise in the planned location - not to mention wasted energy as heat.<br />
The lamp was gently disassembled (no warranty voiding yet) and tested for it's ability to "hold up" from a horizontal plane - it was discovered that if held at a 45 degree angle, the lamp's "flexible arm" would support the lamp to the maximum reach. Based on that, a bracket was made (from plexiglass) to hold the base at 45 degrees. The bracket slides into a short length of DIN rail which is used as a track. This track is part of the enclosure and is accessible from the front panel.<b> </b><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3Se79KUuo_0g8MZGx1nloEfKjyJjQYChzl1c0xma-_we2UV9pn1SwOU2JPvQ-VuUHEofRBq2-pVy73P7QHnAlbneedGzcvRiS8E67i_UZRQ9yDOJY-VZm97jWwbVwBkCxq2dyJogFlJ3f/s1600/101_0907.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3Se79KUuo_0g8MZGx1nloEfKjyJjQYChzl1c0xma-_we2UV9pn1SwOU2JPvQ-VuUHEofRBq2-pVy73P7QHnAlbneedGzcvRiS8E67i_UZRQ9yDOJY-VZm97jWwbVwBkCxq2dyJogFlJ3f/s320/101_0907.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Figure 4 - Power box in place in field desk with lamp inserted</td></tr>
</tbody></table>The lamp will be removed to close the door, so the plug which supplies power to the lamp was cut through the opened switch, and additional wiring soldered on. The wiring is then terminated to the connections for 12VDC (and COMmon) so the lamp will run whenever the PSU is on. This should have worked but during final testing it was found that the light actually needed more than 12 VDC - the "wall-wart" power pack put out 14VDC unloaded - typical for a 12VDC cheap supply, so I connected it to 12VDC - the light was so dim, you'd have thought it was off. I moved the negative cable from the COM to the -5VDC (giving 17VDC) and she lit up beautifully. - Now the cables are between the -12VDC and the 3.3VDC connectors giving 15.3VDC for the light. <br />
<b> </b><br />
<b>PSU</b><br />
Since the planned 1900 PSU was abandoned, the next most affordable option was to use a surplus ATX PSU. There are a number of articles on the web which discuss the conversion - most centre on forcing, or redirecting the softpower "On/Off" wire, and providing a load to stabilise the regulation circuitry. I started going through my collection of surplus ATX PSUs looking for a reasonably low powered unit which worked, and could be used in this project. I tested some of my surplus ATX PSUs and found a 450W which worked OK. I originally planned on using a "wiring harness" to connect everything up, but the space was too tight for that option.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYcZinGFUcsSin8GRhyH67MELlOAeQSqxLePYsA-phsS3GDtVxQUh1vOsPlgdsqsHFyCs4WvePen6tBG9Qy3s8gvmVtV8HZ78QDtBBODuz7cKgwYiV51k0BRVdMO3i-PJFksKnPCUs6OtD/s1600/101_0964.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYcZinGFUcsSin8GRhyH67MELlOAeQSqxLePYsA-phsS3GDtVxQUh1vOsPlgdsqsHFyCs4WvePen6tBG9Qy3s8gvmVtV8HZ78QDtBBODuz7cKgwYiV51k0BRVdMO3i-PJFksKnPCUs6OtD/s320/101_0964.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Figure 5 - Wiring harness (Mk 1) which was too big for use</td></tr>
</tbody></table>What I ended up doing was opening the PSU case, removing the IEC socket (and other mains supply switch and components) and soldering in a hardwired cable. At the same time I cut the ATX plug off, and trimmed all HDD/FDD cables at the first Molex connector. This gave me a bundle of wires about 350mm (14") long. I tied the green wire (PSU_ON) and one black wire (COM) to a toggle switch, and then grouped all other wires together based on their colours and connections within the PSU. Purple (Standby 5V) and the Grey (PSU_OK) cables were tied off inside the PSU since I didn't need them.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi56liVlSZ1g9yMJQFHqT9cZTj3nGjT-2ET_It6bWZrhHaK9dlg-i4jnG_7PAAbWFCdlrvh0HGcpvPIqVmIaWfMg0XivzECHdqxmSdZ09268rrAVoT9tR_O2Ex-ylsGPC5vtZogXy92mTuF/s1600/101_0966.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi56liVlSZ1g9yMJQFHqT9cZTj3nGjT-2ET_It6bWZrhHaK9dlg-i4jnG_7PAAbWFCdlrvh0HGcpvPIqVmIaWfMg0XivzECHdqxmSdZ09268rrAVoT9tR_O2Ex-ylsGPC5vtZogXy92mTuF/s320/101_0966.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Figure 6 - Internals of ATX PSU being modified for use.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>The rest were soldered to brass tabs made to suit the backs of the banana sockets (with 2 sets each for COM (Black) and 5V (Red)) The blue and white wires (-12V and -5V) looked so lonely on their tabs when all other tabs had 5 or more cables soldered in. A 7W wirewound 10 ohm resistor was added across the 5VDC rail for a regulating load (although most supplies theses days don't seem to need that - I'll remove the resistor for now and see if the PSU behaves)<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOBmmPtBlumWWKA3Q7U1O4YdKCjUaksH8apONsvi8Cz4seAsOq2Y5tbi2TNWzZWf2X0vz2TZdDaRqUvA1VoMxrN3mErEU1LeygSVzxHPXz54UBcDx1YirzzyURUMs0XYF50XUjkVcJm1M8/s1600/101_0969.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOBmmPtBlumWWKA3Q7U1O4YdKCjUaksH8apONsvi8Cz4seAsOq2Y5tbi2TNWzZWf2X0vz2TZdDaRqUvA1VoMxrN3mErEU1LeygSVzxHPXz54UBcDx1YirzzyURUMs0XYF50XUjkVcJm1M8/s320/101_0969.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Figure 7 - Modified PSU in enclosure with earthed divider panel.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>As mentioned previously, the enclosure needed some way to direct air through the PSU fan, and back out of the enclosure. I accomplished this by bending up sheet metal dividers - the one closest to the front also being Earthed, and the one at the back being used to restrain the PSU, and block the holes in the casing where the IEC sockets were removed.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhp4G1_vKsyTcI8uKSAV14tH9iLcvFdcVkBWasV3y6ZRDOkdgne0hyphenhyphengT8yZtebyejvUPCHerXhlxVEq8lMtg0ZEvhSeJJjvmSfLQGyi6frRKQqZ-Trx7b5Nl2V99f-F297TYt5gv2TDDbA0/s1600/101_0971.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhp4G1_vKsyTcI8uKSAV14tH9iLcvFdcVkBWasV3y6ZRDOkdgne0hyphenhyphengT8yZtebyejvUPCHerXhlxVEq8lMtg0ZEvhSeJJjvmSfLQGyi6frRKQqZ-Trx7b5Nl2V99f-F297TYt5gv2TDDbA0/s320/101_0971.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Figure 8 - Completed power box with second divider in place for ventilation redirection.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>All Done!!! (although I haven't put in the 2 self tappers in the top corners yet!!)<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUTmseW2Rt5ZwkeTUkH5cI022yzvwLJSVcPufQ8SHmOLCYJOUyJihFGKv6MT906vGKkHApqkOWZp_ok8P0ydBS595jR8at_qeT-qAO1kCS-35h_GdlTyq2ENLV6mqWpA_FSGwbdqwcCOIO/s1600/101_0972.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUTmseW2Rt5ZwkeTUkH5cI022yzvwLJSVcPufQ8SHmOLCYJOUyJihFGKv6MT906vGKkHApqkOWZp_ok8P0ydBS595jR8at_qeT-qAO1kCS-35h_GdlTyq2ENLV6mqWpA_FSGwbdqwcCOIO/s320/101_0972.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Figure 9 - Completed power box ready for use.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>As can be seen in the background of some photos, the desk cabinet is already being painted. The next article will cover the painting and trimming of the desk.des bromilowhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09894433410422774724noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8261361407257616190.post-55798903578570584042011-06-04T06:35:00.000-07:002011-06-04T06:35:09.342-07:00Field desk - part 2 - HardwareHardware fabrication <br />
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<b>Hinges</b> <br />
Using the design I created, I needed to be able to remove the door to use as a work surface. I built two hinges from brass - 1/8"T x 2"W brass strip, and some brass rod salvaged from the spindle of an old household tap.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyo4U2SUTmsZv3OsiCpINkvBt_roh365XAxl6DUKK9p96OEqtoPIEukoQWdTMjUdmskvaJtfG5ScpRdE_fD4zV8wXVATNjzafvlISUDDCKoWiBDFSqP1nNnmu4Hwo7On3QL3G33IpRMszi/s1600/101_0854.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyo4U2SUTmsZv3OsiCpINkvBt_roh365XAxl6DUKK9p96OEqtoPIEukoQWdTMjUdmskvaJtfG5ScpRdE_fD4zV8wXVATNjzafvlISUDDCKoWiBDFSqP1nNnmu4Hwo7On3QL3G33IpRMszi/s320/101_0854.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Figure 1 - Hinge materials</td></tr>
</tbody></table>The hinges were patterned on a half barrel hinge style similar to those used on trailers for the tail gate - I choose that design so the door could be removed in a similar fashion.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjErhKdcrnWlAhnWsUWB6acK_gNL1Oot8FC9DdUBj903VfhFPBZ4kn6fAmNhODg0d_opwKmPcScNxdsooZ9tvy0HsiRaf8f8bLowFT5tdEat3nwy-2tqHsBMkJOjEDnVizHWHH-jpanqgl6/s1600/101_0857.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjErhKdcrnWlAhnWsUWB6acK_gNL1Oot8FC9DdUBj903VfhFPBZ4kn6fAmNhODg0d_opwKmPcScNxdsooZ9tvy0HsiRaf8f8bLowFT5tdEat3nwy-2tqHsBMkJOjEDnVizHWHH-jpanqgl6/s320/101_0857.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Figure 2 - Hinges under construction - engaged</td></tr>
</tbody></table>The spindle was cut and then turned in the lathe (Taig) to make the parts. Once made, the strip brass was cut and filed to suit the parts, and then all pieces soldered together.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbBuXE-1q9W_JOgLHX45uqTzRguWNX_LBAjuO1IE7obHjl4pFL90d-JN3qjiDXdrKY4etiAjFgpM_bXIe2F8SkIX39Zx6ykNNgGRRowYho3-7DHrDA8MBGIo8XV5uvS8QI7Fw3Jah2_XY3/s1600/101_0858.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbBuXE-1q9W_JOgLHX45uqTzRguWNX_LBAjuO1IE7obHjl4pFL90d-JN3qjiDXdrKY4etiAjFgpM_bXIe2F8SkIX39Zx6ykNNgGRRowYho3-7DHrDA8MBGIo8XV5uvS8QI7Fw3Jah2_XY3/s320/101_0858.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Figure 3 - Hinges under construction - released</td></tr>
</tbody></table>Once the hinges were finished, I inlaid them into the floor and door of the desk, and rebated in the backing plates on the reverse side of these surfaces. The screws securing the hardware are all 3/16" UNC (10-24 for our US cousins) into a nut plate on the reverse side.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioM3mYqqdPrJ8Mqp8YkzSjZayZcrYDG5YBWc3rBNraWVYUDX-W2Ry_jNWfDW_u0ndyTteilX7EA4QOeH3S5WkNOiUGWgxIVCWgbFgh8MITI0FDy-lKRmaPiWpki-7HCZ-mPU9islcxlqTm/s1600/101_0896.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioM3mYqqdPrJ8Mqp8YkzSjZayZcrYDG5YBWc3rBNraWVYUDX-W2Ry_jNWfDW_u0ndyTteilX7EA4QOeH3S5WkNOiUGWgxIVCWgbFgh8MITI0FDy-lKRmaPiWpki-7HCZ-mPU9islcxlqTm/s320/101_0896.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Figure 4 - Hinges fitted - engaged</td></tr>
</tbody></table>A notch has been cut in the RH side panel to permit the door to be removed similar to a trailer tailgate.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeLUotAZ0cxyfRosh4wqdrMDRojEyR0qz06a4PrU-my_CS_U2Q4M1yoHgeLmZQdUZich8SKd1Cq277uZdOBD-T2zSqWYjVs58SsnFHitTGJUm6C5zi0LrJd9VgjUI0LSVUxYsdcsiDfO_E/s1600/101_0897.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeLUotAZ0cxyfRosh4wqdrMDRojEyR0qz06a4PrU-my_CS_U2Q4M1yoHgeLmZQdUZich8SKd1Cq277uZdOBD-T2zSqWYjVs58SsnFHitTGJUm6C5zi0LrJd9VgjUI0LSVUxYsdcsiDfO_E/s320/101_0897.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Figure 5 - hinges fitted - door released</td></tr>
</tbody></table><b>Locks</b><br />
Next thing to make was the locks. The requirements on the locks was that the door had to be perfectly flat on both sides - the outside so it would lay on a table top and not scratch the table, the inner surface needs to be flat so it can form the working surface when I'm using the desk.<br />
I planned on making disc-locks, but after reviewing my stock of materials, came to the conclusion that cam locks would be the design. I did not have much in the way of 1/2" diameter brass rod, so I decided to use a cartridge case (.243 Win) to form the shaft. (I have a stash of around 20 of these cartridge cases which were given to me for scrap brass). The cam plate was roughly made up, and then soldered to the cartridge case at the appropriate height to permit the base of the cartridge to be used as actuating surface outside the door.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsZgR_tWnp13wCuze3P-2FbHoD3sSiQ1fr9bjuKxX41nsEeyNK4wHT87m4y93HK4RjDkGHv-09haPiVvB8c04tYoy1yivpTApp8Pe7qy33n2xmhHb083jYT43tp9teld4dR1mKKGX_h-qN/s1600/101_0859.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsZgR_tWnp13wCuze3P-2FbHoD3sSiQ1fr9bjuKxX41nsEeyNK4wHT87m4y93HK4RjDkGHv-09haPiVvB8c04tYoy1yivpTApp8Pe7qy33n2xmhHb083jYT43tp9teld4dR1mKKGX_h-qN/s320/101_0859.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Figure 6 - Cam lock under construction</td></tr>
</tbody></table>The front and back plates were made up, and the lock assembled. Only once assembled was the cam shaped to its final length, with some easing to improve its alignment when turned. The base of the cartridge was spot-drilled to match the "keys" I made - basically a small pin-wrench.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHx2G51dqbv8-7lUM-ZFCm3FSu1CzswanevGaS4kSNirlEcap4fuEsUgyvn_4wREiASAWS35xv5IX8HDsUg8MXW-ayTt1z3iThtagfRDJPHuTxbjkQPQ9ZSm_JVlXPs-HFpJPGL3k421Oz/s1600/101_0861.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHx2G51dqbv8-7lUM-ZFCm3FSu1CzswanevGaS4kSNirlEcap4fuEsUgyvn_4wREiASAWS35xv5IX8HDsUg8MXW-ayTt1z3iThtagfRDJPHuTxbjkQPQ9ZSm_JVlXPs-HFpJPGL3k421Oz/s320/101_0861.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Figure 7 - Pin-wrench "key" under construction</td></tr>
</tbody></table>The pin wrench started life as one of those promotional key-chain bottle openers, but after cutting and drilling a pair of nails were driven in and cut and filed to make the pin-wrenches. I made 2 of the keys so I have a spare.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKjTksWMRb6VUnHjvScmSuApSssflOmSVUWoDael9UtbDLrZA1sYmikTtGhCf8vRsI5vfjU9wQVQkYpuRP8X2DM9tGjqu4lIC-wh0ax4HBND5tsJlu8pspZy9zZ-7_g0fcTgi7FN9phPqo/s1600/101_0872.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKjTksWMRb6VUnHjvScmSuApSssflOmSVUWoDael9UtbDLrZA1sYmikTtGhCf8vRsI5vfjU9wQVQkYpuRP8X2DM9tGjqu4lIC-wh0ax4HBND5tsJlu8pspZy9zZ-7_g0fcTgi7FN9phPqo/s320/101_0872.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Figure 8 - Finished lock - in locked position</td></tr>
</tbody></table>Once the front and back plates were completed, a top plate was made and soldered to the front plate. Clearance slots for the cam operation was made, and suitably relieved for easy use. The holes in the lock were drilled to indicate the lock status - vertical holes indicate the lock is "locked", horizontal holes indicate unlocked - there is only 90 degrees of movement in the lock mechanism.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0txESdT0u9rdjSLS-bAHVQMoGT5NkkDFQ50K2oXbEsKxqj0j5ontngps2J8z__ULZImJ5fMsGhLr2W9RszTOHYzRupcIb9RwmpiIjeCo159t28EjSFVHrAU-C4Il3HIEjnTiGt5RSiq1z/s1600/101_0873.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0txESdT0u9rdjSLS-bAHVQMoGT5NkkDFQ50K2oXbEsKxqj0j5ontngps2J8z__ULZImJ5fMsGhLr2W9RszTOHYzRupcIb9RwmpiIjeCo159t28EjSFVHrAU-C4Il3HIEjnTiGt5RSiq1z/s320/101_0873.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Figure 9 - Finished lock in unlocked position</td></tr>
</tbody></table><b>Door opening mechanism - The Pusher</b> <br />
Since the door has to be perfectly flat on both sides, there is no handle. I considered a flip out handle, I considered simply drilling a hole to poke my finger through - both ideas had aspects which did not appeal to my sense of this project... What I really needed was something inside the desk to push the door out once the locks were released... What I came up with was "the pusher".<br />
The pusher is nothing more than a simple spring loaded detent plunger - but instead of pressing into a detent hole, it simply pushes the door away from the locked position by about 1/2" - more than enough to get my finger on to lower the door to the table top. The pusher uses another .243" cartridge casing for the spring holder, and the plunger is made from more tap spindle stock. Who knows where the spring came from, I've boxes of salvaged "useful junk" which gets pawed through when I do jobs like this.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8LUfyHQ1wODuq_S4f5PBOzLUJJLsIV5_QdmXe1izr1ZmRs44spmu-J9ajJAKoOo2IP2px9gx-e3Xkv_UAoWA0kgl_T2PV8aluTR-JiViaLYlTGLKOKjIJyLcEXFtAHQ2J2505Ot_RxTxA/s1600/101_0864.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8LUfyHQ1wODuq_S4f5PBOzLUJJLsIV5_QdmXe1izr1ZmRs44spmu-J9ajJAKoOo2IP2px9gx-e3Xkv_UAoWA0kgl_T2PV8aluTR-JiViaLYlTGLKOKjIJyLcEXFtAHQ2J2505Ot_RxTxA/s320/101_0864.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Figure 10 - Pusher components</td></tr>
</tbody></table>The spring casing is rebated into the riser, and the cover plate relieved into the edge so there is no protrusion other than the plunger.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghZJ3sgaFn5GdDkYTklu5EngmE6GAyLaJupVMwvUTw0KSwDNQ-NOxlIKGaHZQMQ-axdvl-hF0t8N7tmLAYCVtept_6NGflfW3FsHo9UvPG8lvv3hUy4nFPLKoYShK9IiDWvy6xBm8lx5uw/s1600/101_0866.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEghZJ3sgaFn5GdDkYTklu5EngmE6GAyLaJupVMwvUTw0KSwDNQ-NOxlIKGaHZQMQ-axdvl-hF0t8N7tmLAYCVtept_6NGflfW3FsHo9UvPG8lvv3hUy4nFPLKoYShK9IiDWvy6xBm8lx5uw/s320/101_0866.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Figure 11 - Pusher spring casing installed</td></tr>
</tbody></table>This piece of hardware is the only one secured with normal wood screws into wood - all others use the nut-plate method described in the hinges. The screws into timber should be able to hold the minor force of the spring at the end of its travel.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxrjBVohoabPu4m4u9MQjXkNQfxHAMtXxqVLvmbgr7H9sf0ZeNsbgv2t_Q7M5noSDmEMfM8s2vfMDlZnjLqx2XhTPLmXx1Y8dWTETRU8OQl8wclndRTgvFacBvQwVvzv0QbJSIQqauHWxr/s1600/101_0868.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxrjBVohoabPu4m4u9MQjXkNQfxHAMtXxqVLvmbgr7H9sf0ZeNsbgv2t_Q7M5noSDmEMfM8s2vfMDlZnjLqx2XhTPLmXx1Y8dWTETRU8OQl8wclndRTgvFacBvQwVvzv0QbJSIQqauHWxr/s320/101_0868.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Figure 12 - Pusher installation nearly complete</td></tr>
</tbody></table>Once the locks are unlocked, the pusher moves the door about 3/4" if the LHS doesn't grab (that bowed panel as mentioned when I built the carcass), 1/2" if it does rub... either way I can still open the door easily.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfVA6dWagaDmPLzj-frEXj0orTTE0ATP2qZhLucnutGKABFcUWoW6egTQU1v1LBVRQgqNBV1JHX0JGKL2gneKXJ6_RsBrAjz_uq-bcuj02pdCRsMIif5eFZQbC1o9uXFrl6_6CMzhDkB0c/s1600/101_0895.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfVA6dWagaDmPLzj-frEXj0orTTE0ATP2qZhLucnutGKABFcUWoW6egTQU1v1LBVRQgqNBV1JHX0JGKL2gneKXJ6_RsBrAjz_uq-bcuj02pdCRsMIif5eFZQbC1o9uXFrl6_6CMzhDkB0c/s320/101_0895.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Figure 13 - Result of pusher on unlocked door</td></tr>
</tbody></table><b>Handle</b> <br />
The other piece of hardware to build was the handle. Most of my toolboxes have handles which protrude on the lid - making it nearly impossible to stack things on top. Given the intended use of this desk is in a "accommodation camp" where I may need to stack a laptop, or books on top, I was insistent that the handle design had to leave the top surface perfectly flat. The ideal scenario would have been to use the folding handle from the top of a 7.62 x 51mm ammo can - but I couldn't find any. I did not trust my skills to make one, so I looked at every box and case I owned looking for a low profile handle - I stole this idea off an industrial first-aid cabinet.<br />
<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4ZUGNb2dMtv6POfJWUMDR4A5NLKFAE03mmsxbO_1-B34ZfxOuCB1lyzJU1PzzQOcMXboPE9EhiRmNahSjVASSqzmIOByoojXlZ7QPRjF3GjGbX6YZuNQMuqqULnJezv15hCYOp7C0gUct/s1600/101_0885.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4ZUGNb2dMtv6POfJWUMDR4A5NLKFAE03mmsxbO_1-B34ZfxOuCB1lyzJU1PzzQOcMXboPE9EhiRmNahSjVASSqzmIOByoojXlZ7QPRjF3GjGbX6YZuNQMuqqULnJezv15hCYOp7C0gUct/s320/101_0885.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Figure 14 - Handle components</td></tr>
</tbody></table>The basic strap (handle) is made from 2 layers of pallet strapping - the 3/4" wide blue/black metal banding you find on pallets of bricks and other heavy things. I drilled and slotted it, then shrunk two layers of heat-shrink tuning over it to make the handle comfortable. I then made a pair of brass "sockets" which hold the handle, and allow it to slide in it slot for extending under weight, or retracting when not in use. I made the top plates for the sockets larger than required and drilled 2 large holes in each for attaching labels (addressing, or shipping labels).<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOu7iz04KRxwruf40h0HlCKzmdgQgE9tW57o442cBueRIhXYfwVjQG_3T9-rN0JIYlWoXR54rxoe5uV5wwykQsvCfpsWGUPbkJEPgBqZmrjIL3rvx9jLyd7RPSNo2hUAUKHdEUAMjV5Dr3/s1600/101_0887.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOu7iz04KRxwruf40h0HlCKzmdgQgE9tW57o442cBueRIhXYfwVjQG_3T9-rN0JIYlWoXR54rxoe5uV5wwykQsvCfpsWGUPbkJEPgBqZmrjIL3rvx9jLyd7RPSNo2hUAUKHdEUAMjV5Dr3/s320/101_0887.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Figure 15 - Assembled handle</td></tr>
</tbody></table>Since I'd already glued the carcass together (my enthusiasm bit me hard there) I had to make my own "T-Nuts" to engage from the underside. Basically cylindrical spigots soldered to shim brass which were then friction fitted into holes in the timber. I wasn't feeling overly confident in the solder joints, so I backed the nuts up with some Loctite CA glue. If the nuts pull through, I'll have to look at redesigning the handle nuts, but so far OK.<br />
<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzjq8n0MzCllNgOHRhXABpsx-p-QmTlkL2W5MILTg1Usgk9RzUlf9O8FM05l_QD7PtfB4OOBdD65u5ckYA2cb3nrMSKt1xQKP-xwCIM3_dTBwD4Z11gYablvv_DzHwOxveCwyygzE0zwUs/s1600/101_0890.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzjq8n0MzCllNgOHRhXABpsx-p-QmTlkL2W5MILTg1Usgk9RzUlf9O8FM05l_QD7PtfB4OOBdD65u5ckYA2cb3nrMSKt1xQKP-xwCIM3_dTBwD4Z11gYablvv_DzHwOxveCwyygzE0zwUs/s320/101_0890.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Figure 16 - Completed field desk with all hardware</td></tr>
</tbody></table>Since nothing was rebated in, and the finished handle is proud by 1/4", I still had protrusion to deal with, so the only quick answer was to cut an overlay board of 1/4" plywood and screw it on top to raise the surface of the top around the handle. - Not ideal, but I'd rather do that with 1/4" ply than the 1/2" ply I'd have needed for the commercial handle the local hardware store had. (trying to keep the weight down)<br />
The additional sheet can be seen in Figures 16 and 17. It comprises some 1/4" (6mm) plywood, and an interposing sheet of cardboard (edges covered with masking tape) - this effectively recesses the handle, with minimal weight gains.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggN_71emq6Va5zMaGB08TnB9jSPFIrOIuFQLdMlT4fsWall-ktTEq40jryi_du-cWE6G32B0vuEQxBxknCmTzgGJlqnFm77_1OLBhPgJopZmTlgfqMVh3JDSmbox4BaQBmyJL-U_vUk8LR/s1600/101_0892.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEggN_71emq6Va5zMaGB08TnB9jSPFIrOIuFQLdMlT4fsWall-ktTEq40jryi_du-cWE6G32B0vuEQxBxknCmTzgGJlqnFm77_1OLBhPgJopZmTlgfqMVh3JDSmbox4BaQBmyJL-U_vUk8LR/s320/101_0892.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Figure 17 - Demonstrating use of tag holes in handle</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
All screws for the hardware had to be cut down in length so there was no protrusion to scratch the tabletop. A dab of thread-locker will be applied during final assembly just to ensure they don't come loose during travelling.<br />
<br />
Still to come:<br />
Electrical section<br />
Trays and containers<br />
finishing<br />
<br />
- apologies for the number of photos - next time I'll do this as two articles.des bromilowhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09894433410422774724noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8261361407257616190.post-82850662830587387852011-05-30T06:23:00.000-07:002011-05-30T06:23:49.442-07:00Field desk - part 1 - cabinetConstruction of the field desk<br />
<br />
I have need for an electronics tool and experimentation kit which is self contained. I looked around on the internet for some ideas, but failed to find anything which suited my needs, or seemed practical for my planned budget.<br />
The military used to use field desks (you occasionally see one in the old episodes of M*A*S*H if you want to see an example of a real one) and I thought that would make a good starting point for a design.<br />
<br />
I googled (is that a real word yet?) "field desk plans" and found some dimensions from early American history re-enactors and museums. Most centered on dimensions of 24"W x 18"H x 10"D (nominally 600mmW x 450mmH x 250mmD) and that seemed like a reasonable size for my intended purposes.<br />
Whilst planning the cutting for the timber I had, I decided to use an external depth of 12" (nominally 300mm) instead of the original 10" mentioned previously due to the depth of the plastic containers I am planning to use.<br />
My timber was the remains of a UPS packing crate which I salvaged from a job about 2-3 years ago. The timber from the sides of the crate was 6mm (1/4") plywood, and the side which doubled as a ramp was 10mm (3/8") plywood. I drew up some plans and cutting lists using the 10mm ply for the top, bottom, riser, back and sides. I planned on using 6mm ply for the shelves, and some 12mm (1/2") plywood for the front. Due to a cutting error I ended up having to use some of the 12mm ply for the sides as well.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIjyxawgGD0maukNiyI8sbQrrjSVDNueYQ94m6mYqW46JTUkjkUODB8ShofMCaQgPOGFc2FDeBKr7YEc_C6MjQvJgX5WmYquN-EuubQVabxHvU2f3Ag6386HEzv8_SD7b7JdMa0JfJsDLo/s1600/101_0840.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIjyxawgGD0maukNiyI8sbQrrjSVDNueYQ94m6mYqW46JTUkjkUODB8ShofMCaQgPOGFc2FDeBKr7YEc_C6MjQvJgX5WmYquN-EuubQVabxHvU2f3Ag6386HEzv8_SD7b7JdMa0JfJsDLo/s320/101_0840.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Figure 1 - Raw plywood material</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoMOONdzusQcHReMp-qJ5TXex3NYv0WbLiD1RydOL4kjfOkqT43HzLluW-XvnwjTLwTGsJwN14CwTfQerw35Q6KqBMAxwgaucoikMqNS49rKE3a6daGvpIL28O4ftlR9HqkSBPfCQw8FZi/s1600/101_0842.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoMOONdzusQcHReMp-qJ5TXex3NYv0WbLiD1RydOL4kjfOkqT43HzLluW-XvnwjTLwTGsJwN14CwTfQerw35Q6KqBMAxwgaucoikMqNS49rKE3a6daGvpIL28O4ftlR9HqkSBPfCQw8FZi/s320/101_0842.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Figure 2 - Cut into basic panels</td><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><br />
</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
After marking the timber to the largest finished dimension for each panel, I cut the panels out using a circular saw.<br />
The rough panels were then marked up with the slots, dovetails, etc which were cut in using a jigsaw, hacksaw, and portable drill (the drill was used to start the slots for the finger joints. All external joints were made as dovetail joints to help the box stay together, whilst the internal joints (supporting the shelves) were made as finger joints (tab and slot).<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2v01Xru-ZbIf_HIvEu7Wu7gAR5eZcMYsmYJ9-ahVCI6FUYtllikNk-TAg2HjBeauykRa2GrIOk4U0aCavPTTrOeF7-s6iABqnELVxnpiie58iTpJnFfhOnekzIEzm2TKkNylX8JfF_Mwt/s1600/101_0844.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2v01Xru-ZbIf_HIvEu7Wu7gAR5eZcMYsmYJ9-ahVCI6FUYtllikNk-TAg2HjBeauykRa2GrIOk4U0aCavPTTrOeF7-s6iABqnELVxnpiie58iTpJnFfhOnekzIEzm2TKkNylX8JfF_Mwt/s320/101_0844.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Figure 3 - partially assembled carcass</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
During the construction I would clip the unit together to mark up the next panel - for some reason I got confuzzled at the end of the first day and assembled the desk with one piece reversed. This then meant the finished carcass went together upside down, and mirrored. Thankfully the photos I'd taken earlier in the day were able to be used to show me the correct orientation of the pieces, and allowed me to assemble it correctly the following day. Being right-handed, I really wanted the section for power to be on the RHS.<br />
<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFTpieA3JtCHy09SYdyhN9SFaDHkQHviJE7c67BvaoB9A5YS9DV8FNlHE7seWEhAb58rvtEOQR46_9uJnK2owXtxbe_wuH4qMsRuhEz7peDlMLSb2i1GSX4sIN1IoqEgoFI6uIcbf3sEoA/s1600/101_0846.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFTpieA3JtCHy09SYdyhN9SFaDHkQHviJE7c67BvaoB9A5YS9DV8FNlHE7seWEhAb58rvtEOQR46_9uJnK2owXtxbe_wuH4qMsRuhEz7peDlMLSb2i1GSX4sIN1IoqEgoFI6uIcbf3sEoA/s320/101_0846.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Figure 4 - Carcass assembled, but with pieces mirrored by accident - rear view</td></tr>
</tbody></table>The back was marked up for dovetails and slots, then cut and fitted.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhY1fXjvrnnQhglgllZxXEMdWuL9tSVovx5XZTGcf0wpoB-IU7FXLnT0md3Xs650R62q7REmFDj1zDmJz2n_CRAUuVtz7KCFVbE-YQr_xJ-JUKl_qHZYDd_euG1IUw6JUM3oUO8BL_d1rly/s1600/101_0848.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhY1fXjvrnnQhglgllZxXEMdWuL9tSVovx5XZTGcf0wpoB-IU7FXLnT0md3Xs650R62q7REmFDj1zDmJz2n_CRAUuVtz7KCFVbE-YQr_xJ-JUKl_qHZYDd_euG1IUw6JUM3oUO8BL_d1rly/s320/101_0848.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Figure 5 - Back panel marked up and cut for dovetails and finger joints.</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
Once happy with the finished carcass, I dismantled it and sanded all panels before assembling with construction adhesive (aka "Liquid nails") and PVA glue.<br />
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<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkeTTKi_56cOQQUCxU7YO87UB6uzoGyHIvhi9XxX0TnHzL3RqRg-U_ARz_z6qubUjZUvMvxvT1mz4tmJ7uzIfVQikKwC0Z6Md0EpHCrs3qchfMAt0Lj4DhBU4-3BFPiSpPtCKInErYx3lI/s1600/101_0849.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkeTTKi_56cOQQUCxU7YO87UB6uzoGyHIvhi9XxX0TnHzL3RqRg-U_ARz_z6qubUjZUvMvxvT1mz4tmJ7uzIfVQikKwC0Z6Md0EpHCrs3qchfMAt0Lj4DhBU4-3BFPiSpPtCKInErYx3lI/s320/101_0849.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Figure 6 - Back panel in place on carcass of field desk, shelves not in place.</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
The front door was then cut and tested for fit. I found a slight bow in the LHS side panel - I'm still trying to determine if I can remove it,or if I will need to alter the door slightly to compensate. UPDATE - I modified the door slightly by allowing a slight amount of slack in the hinges, and put a heavy chamfer on the inner edges of the door, this allows the door to close and adjust it's centre based on the 1-2mm bow in the LHS panel.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaCXir_XIgH1jftcdctzOoL06x1FPVRxDLNB16eYq3ouSC15b2KaIc012gpKOJGMZCthpktEPMITQbkZAeBX5wiCao4A5WrQlctXknQI6PPvN4RwY9HP-l8QZekHR80s_25HCwl9bG1XMv/s1600/101_0851.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaCXir_XIgH1jftcdctzOoL06x1FPVRxDLNB16eYq3ouSC15b2KaIc012gpKOJGMZCthpktEPMITQbkZAeBX5wiCao4A5WrQlctXknQI6PPvN4RwY9HP-l8QZekHR80s_25HCwl9bG1XMv/s320/101_0851.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Figure 7 - Field desk with shelves filled with sample material</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
Whilst the glue dried, I commenced work on building the hardware... hinges, catches, etc.<br />
<br />
Next articles will include:<br />
Hardware - hinges, catches, etc<br />
Electrical - Lighting, PSU, etc<br />
Finishing - Painting, trim, etc<br />
<br />
Since I didn't get much done last week on the desk, I'm hoping to complete it over the next two weeks or so.des bromilowhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09894433410422774724noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8261361407257616190.post-21047469819841780922011-05-14T05:34:00.000-07:002011-05-14T05:35:34.297-07:00Dividing Head for Taig (and others) - Part 4 - sector arms, plunger, etcLast article for the Dividing head.... What's left to discuss?<br />
Sector arms<br />
Plunger arm<br />
Retaining Knob and spacers<br />
<br />
<br />
<b>Sector arms</b><br />
The sector arms are patterned on the arm design from Tony Jeffree's website. The arms were first patterned out in cardboard, then cut out using a hacksaw, files, and drills.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhESxMhNKnuBAjQmhfB3HFgSpa7cE9gNvLdTdebqT8vHHyc0EYJWvEh24pznjhX1k0rYTGpGLePPArOwtkKUeB1jIz4BwoTlk8ouBHgZqTfYPHXOrChcSnueM0dZ8vA9dqiwOq_aZYnDPux/s1600/101_0805.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhESxMhNKnuBAjQmhfB3HFgSpa7cE9gNvLdTdebqT8vHHyc0EYJWvEh24pznjhX1k0rYTGpGLePPArOwtkKUeB1jIz4BwoTlk8ouBHgZqTfYPHXOrChcSnueM0dZ8vA9dqiwOq_aZYnDPux/s320/101_0805.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Figure 1 - Sector arms with locking screw</td></tr>
</tbody></table>The lower arm is then soft-soldered to a brass boss which protrudes to form a spigot for the upper arm. A screw has been drilled and threaded so it fully engages in the boss, but it's head overlaps the moving arm. A small brass cylinder was made to concentrate/ exaggerate the clamping force from the screw head.<br />
In normal operation the screw is loosened by about 1 turn, and the upper arm can rotate freely on the spigot of the lower arm, once set at the appropriate arc angle (hole spacing), the screw is simply re-tightened to lock the arms in positions relative to each other. Both arms are still able to rotate as an assembly on the spigot of the plate carrier.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisH06neaSK6NHqrb6F05xmdmq5IGXpjJFfi76c4PuymWjAtiV8nzc8_fy-E5-G3fMXPojD2enLATTnzM5V5_FFew3bjJraoY6ZCJXBjkhkIy7PZEDN_frjaeLIL4pBGh8W-ljgZ5JhMnyw/s1600/101_0806.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEisH06neaSK6NHqrb6F05xmdmq5IGXpjJFfi76c4PuymWjAtiV8nzc8_fy-E5-G3fMXPojD2enLATTnzM5V5_FFew3bjJraoY6ZCJXBjkhkIy7PZEDN_frjaeLIL4pBGh8W-ljgZ5JhMnyw/s320/101_0806.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Figure 2 - Sector arms on plate retainer</td></tr>
</tbody></table>A cover, which is actually a spacer, sits over the arm assembly in use, but serves no functional purpose other than to increase the distance between the arm, and the surface of the division plate.<br />
Not long after starting to use this dividing head, I found the tips of the arms were difficult to operate if they crossed each other - kinda like trying to open scissors by using the tips... To alleviate that issue I turned the tip of the upper arm upwards to form a handle. I could have added a nice little knob, but I was worried about the extra weight on the slender arm.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLeiuG0uLfV8x2dLAHv10XvJ7eIeqAVODOC934X3Gxc5s61aaoVBQ6BDK3nnC1X0GJl1S2xbPlB09t8DzfU3pkGb9FtnyWvQC-bRYTG_e191IE-YX0E5R3Qx9dd63ZO-O4MUiJmAeNQCoD/s1600/101_0807.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLeiuG0uLfV8x2dLAHv10XvJ7eIeqAVODOC934X3Gxc5s61aaoVBQ6BDK3nnC1X0GJl1S2xbPlB09t8DzfU3pkGb9FtnyWvQC-bRYTG_e191IE-YX0E5R3Qx9dd63ZO-O4MUiJmAeNQCoD/s320/101_0807.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Figure 3 - Spacer cover on sector arms</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
<b>Plunger arm</b><br />
The plunger arm - the arm which actually rotates the worm, is made of 1/4" thick brass strip. A slot (1/4" wide) was made through the middle by the use of chain drilling, and filing. This slot engages the flats filed on the worm shaft. A brass plunger mechanism was fabricated and the body soft-soldered to the arm.<br />
The slot was made so the division plates could have multiple rows of holes, although typically I use only 3 rows of holes per plate at most.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUeOhr9MPMes6aIhBxep6KxevIeJNlaJ3ex0Q0YXO45oWGGFc1mXDwvBlBL6IhSctXo2yzKC_sxoWT-KdhdeZLMoe-QMAWdCv4Szz0PefJIb13izdwJUpZ67djtr1XOlHOj5N-c7FyM1Ld/s1600/101_0808.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUeOhr9MPMes6aIhBxep6KxevIeJNlaJ3ex0Q0YXO45oWGGFc1mXDwvBlBL6IhSctXo2yzKC_sxoWT-KdhdeZLMoe-QMAWdCv4Szz0PefJIb13izdwJUpZ67djtr1XOlHOj5N-c7FyM1Ld/s320/101_0808.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Figure 4 - Plunger arm fitted to worm shaft</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
One problem I have with this plunger is that the threaded portion which holds the shaft and handle together will sometimes spin undone whilst using the knob for rotating the worm. I'll remember to dab a drop of superglue in there one day, but until then I remember to tighten the threaded joint before use.<br />
<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwU2Xmw4bZBY6uwUlnsugOEQas6xWYBFeA-J6FujR1Cpqcuy4XA6BsXblN6N_NnxohIGsacx1mAC9WiYFa70lsySERoRG6SFc8oL6ntE-2SPZxEm2l1VsbfFFfL4tupg31jqjuNwzlbwvz/s1600/101_0809.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwU2Xmw4bZBY6uwUlnsugOEQas6xWYBFeA-J6FujR1Cpqcuy4XA6BsXblN6N_NnxohIGsacx1mAC9WiYFa70lsySERoRG6SFc8oL6ntE-2SPZxEm2l1VsbfFFfL4tupg31jqjuNwzlbwvz/s320/101_0809.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Figure 5 - plunger arm secured by retaining knob</td></tr>
</tbody></table><b>Retaining Knob and spacers</b><br />
The retaining knob is simply a brass turned object, and my first attempt at knurling. The picture makes it look better than it actually is... the knob won't roll of the table because there is a flat spot on the bottom where the knurling "crunched up" - I can't explain why it happened, and I've since tried to rebuild the scissor knurler, but I keep having issues there.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4l3B2LpP8JJbOWrZhHvcZ76TAEJpIL3wZC92xj_kPDJMv5uPL7ruFbk4bvlOAqOGb2mCGxWEhyk1yfmMrr90xSbpVVnUgHnN10V_Q4cf7gHGVctks-WoPctg8h7O_u6VHvOr9tN4F6iJt/s1600/101_0818.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4l3B2LpP8JJbOWrZhHvcZ76TAEJpIL3wZC92xj_kPDJMv5uPL7ruFbk4bvlOAqOGb2mCGxWEhyk1yfmMrr90xSbpVVnUgHnN10V_Q4cf7gHGVctks-WoPctg8h7O_u6VHvOr9tN4F6iJt/s320/101_0818.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Figure 6 - Retaining knob in profile</td></tr>
</tbody></table>As mentioned with the sector arms, there is a cover which acts to space up the plunger arm. There is another spacer which sits above the arm to space the retaining knob. With both spacers in their correct locations, the arm is essentially clamped to the worm shaft not only by the slot, but also by the clamping of the spacers. It basically removes any clamping effects from the knob on the sector arms, since if I place the upper spacer in the wrong position (under the plunger arm) it will attempt to turn the sector arms when I operate the worm.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGMClXybOS6VHGahiT-JPScHwY4g-V0vqL-ERZSCCx6lalmWhTUrsYadvF2oD9npcqDLdzgYs9-GlK8Dfn4qzo8ndw5rd28Aa35P4CoBueqcyD7fVM3WpFwAyEfts9hnwxZCwBOsRa9QA_/s1600/101_0817.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGMClXybOS6VHGahiT-JPScHwY4g-V0vqL-ERZSCCx6lalmWhTUrsYadvF2oD9npcqDLdzgYs9-GlK8Dfn4qzo8ndw5rd28Aa35P4CoBueqcyD7fVM3WpFwAyEfts9hnwxZCwBOsRa9QA_/s320/101_0817.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Figure 7 - Spacer ring above sector arm</td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
Most of the brass was from the scrap merchant I mentioned in my previous articles, but the brass sheet for the sector arms was bought as scrap from the local radiator place (along with a clapped out 8" bench grinder which only needed $12 worth of bearings), and the brass for the plunger arm was purchased from the scrap bin of a local fabrication mob (NOT cheap)<br />
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As previously mentioned, the spigot at the rear of the dividing head body permits the plate/worm assembly to rotated through about 180 degrees allowing the dividing head to be used vertically, or horizontally and still have the sector arms, division plate, plunger arm facing the operator. <br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9n4S2ylGPLysxo8es3yyk5O28m6mEdpJtnZ-p41zlYTY6guwi8eDjEQoWZvEnXKkGiR5CLzxZXwNtQWi3h1IscbuqLLneQEHSWEEUdGyH0Pzjq9Ps4wRJ8XIh39BS0X9FECL8Ucguy6Pc/s1600/101_0810.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9n4S2ylGPLysxo8es3yyk5O28m6mEdpJtnZ-p41zlYTY6guwi8eDjEQoWZvEnXKkGiR5CLzxZXwNtQWi3h1IscbuqLLneQEHSWEEUdGyH0Pzjq9Ps4wRJ8XIh39BS0X9FECL8Ucguy6Pc/s320/101_0810.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Figure 8 - Plate assembly rotated 45 degrees to illustrate movement</td></tr>
</tbody></table><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4l3B2LpP8JJbOWrZhHvcZ76TAEJpIL3wZC92xj_kPDJMv5uPL7ruFbk4bvlOAqOGb2mCGxWEhyk1yfmMrr90xSbpVVnUgHnN10V_Q4cf7gHGVctks-WoPctg8h7O_u6VHvOr9tN4F6iJt/s1600/101_0818.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a><br />
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That's about it for the Dividing head.. it's been used on and off over the years for a few jobs and will continue to be used for many more. The most recent job was making up a wrench called a "Torx-plus" so we could access the internals of a harddrive enclosure. The Torx-plus is a 5 lobed version of the more common 6 lobed "torx" bit. I made the bit by drilling holes in the end of a piece of steel shaft to create 5 holes on the appropriate PCD, and then turned the holes away to only leave half the hole. The metal between each hole was used left in place to form the 5 lobes needed to turn the screws out of the enclosure.<br />
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I'll have to sit down one day and see if I can improve the design around the sector arms and plunger - it works, now, but it does need some improvement so the spacers aren't necessary - they are a pain if the top one gets put in out of sequence (below the plunger arm).<br />
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The field desk is progressing along, and will be the next article series at this stage. I've designed the locks and latch, and have commenced designing the hinges, support arms, lighting and handle. Somewhere in all that I'll need to decide what colour to paint it. This week I have jury duty, so it's possible I may get an hour each arfternoon/evening to work on the hardware.. here's hoping.des bromilowhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09894433410422774724noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8261361407257616190.post-9569914284156063532011-05-12T04:29:00.000-07:002011-05-13T13:31:40.399-07:00Dividing Head for Taig (and others) - Part3 - division plate generationThe division plates used on this dividing head are made from old Hard Disk platters - the part of the harddrive which actually stores your data.<br />
Each 3.5" hard disk will contain one or more of these disks which is 5.25" in diameter, with a 1" hole in the middle. The nominal thickness of the disks is around 1mm (less than 1/16") - I say nominal because I've found the more modern disks typically are thinner (less rotational inertia), whereas the older drives are thicker (up to 1/16")<br />
The only thing you can rely on is that all disks in the same platter (collection of disks) will be the same thickness.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjq1SeIHtnOP7JR51QCJKsnA8lwyIJry6vm0RMu-E_i5LQyhCGXEtZsxG-M1-tKkvrBs65G_8_SKjPcyNqDCjqoRDq_Edojo1Y0hkcZRuEzwZ_dq3CcrLVbo7gp315N9fmwG8mW1ONgB8jI/s1600/101_0815.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjq1SeIHtnOP7JR51QCJKsnA8lwyIJry6vm0RMu-E_i5LQyhCGXEtZsxG-M1-tKkvrBs65G_8_SKjPcyNqDCjqoRDq_Edojo1Y0hkcZRuEzwZ_dq3CcrLVbo7gp315N9fmwG8mW1ONgB8jI/s320/101_0815.JPG" width="320" /></a><br />
Figure 1 - Collection of platters destined to become division plates<br />
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I've been collecting hard disks for salvage for quite a while. The magnets are useful (see <a href="http://desbromilow.blogspot.com/2010/05/free-pegboard-shed-tip-1-and-magnets.html">shed tip #1</a> ), and I also salvage bearings from them. The disks get shuffled into the pile for making division plates, and the casings go into the scrap aluminium bin (for foundry supplies) - only the boards, screws and little plastic doo-hickies get tossed. I learn a fair bit about mechanical design from looking inside the harddrive as well - there's some really clever braking mechanisms used to return the head, lock it, and so forth simply driven by ground effects from the spinning disk platter.<br />
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To make up a division plate:<br />
I insert this mandrel into the back of the spindle of the dividing head. (see figure 2)<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjImqm-0bAmY4oIqrxJCmjtSRzBXgcF8W2gdg-Cho7hThydGgutXg1g1ciDaHHE4JYZuQ30ROTMh2SO3U-dDtIIpaftiYFjkPN4KyX7dR-M_PPPyGeMrI_f-ceUsr1oSn6MvIdC3DWoheFJ/s1600/101_0812.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjImqm-0bAmY4oIqrxJCmjtSRzBXgcF8W2gdg-Cho7hThydGgutXg1g1ciDaHHE4JYZuQ30ROTMh2SO3U-dDtIIpaftiYFjkPN4KyX7dR-M_PPPyGeMrI_f-ceUsr1oSn6MvIdC3DWoheFJ/s320/101_0812.JPG" width="320" /></a> <br />
Figure 2 - Direct indexing mandrel <br />
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The mandrel is made to expand and grip the inside of the spindle once the 1/4" nut is tightened up. A gear is placed between the 2 large washers which is an exact match (or multiple of) the desired index count. When I generated the 40 hole plate, I used a 40 tooth gear, but I could have used a 80 tooth gear if I had one.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJeMEZFJnMNFCI6PCNuLTth0ZId50lyrBrHvTlqpJ1x7UM3R6-YrfkgCvPgJugcG8vU6zR4D9erUWa4CbeeS5cRshXZv6W3pQuFkPOY30cD0yyMxCfUNIzo53BrAUZYCgIYu5S3weETJbx/s1600/101_0813.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhJeMEZFJnMNFCI6PCNuLTth0ZId50lyrBrHvTlqpJ1x7UM3R6-YrfkgCvPgJugcG8vU6zR4D9erUWa4CbeeS5cRshXZv6W3pQuFkPOY30cD0yyMxCfUNIzo53BrAUZYCgIYu5S3weETJbx/s320/101_0813.JPG" width="320" /></a> <br />
Figure 3 - Mandrel in place<br />
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The mandrel is sized to match the collection of C218 changewheels I purchased a few years ago. Those changewheels are the basis for the leadscrew of the Taig lathe and are the same metric mod 1, 20 degree PA changewheels used in the myriad of 7x12 lathes available in the US and other locations.<br />
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I place a chuck on the dividing head, and use a holder to grip the blank division plate in the chuck.<br />
A centre drill is gripped in the lathe chuck using an arbor supporting a normal drill chuck.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3atdWnhsfO9oq37JiZO9RwikT-PMbW11IHRwLJ_KAfjWsGq5U_1g83GOkCuFwQQriix_XpqGRD-rzMpoeNNxd0cxrikqslIT9uJnBo_F2KKZSOGp1i3370Lkfmuu5anW2IqF8ZMxyQtif/s1600/101_0811.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3atdWnhsfO9oq37JiZO9RwikT-PMbW11IHRwLJ_KAfjWsGq5U_1g83GOkCuFwQQriix_XpqGRD-rzMpoeNNxd0cxrikqslIT9uJnBo_F2KKZSOGp1i3370Lkfmuu5anW2IqF8ZMxyQtif/s320/101_0811.JPG" width="320" /></a><br />
Figure 4 - Dividing head spindle nose<br />
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A detent plunger mechanism is attached to the dividing head body which engages the gap between the teeth of the gear wheel. Turning and locking the spindle turns the blank plate, and all I need to do is feed the head into the drill to make the holes in the plate. The bracket supporting the detent plunger system is made from an offcut of an aluminium angle extrusion. The bracket is bolted to the body with two socket-head screws, and has holes to pass over the heads of the body bolts. Figure 5 (below) illustrates how it is fitted, with one securing bolt removed for demonstration purposes.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiD2g0_bl9_WLtcQKM4hbpCsTrQK6V6avbRvx0eQZthqDEEQr5VHc-B22k2272b1ne-OYhWIoULE62PnjS1AwRZGZVxg2coI5xn01Zov1X4_CaVpb9PKTQMyzkvCsZDnY_gD5qYYqUdWHlm/s1600/101_0814.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiD2g0_bl9_WLtcQKM4hbpCsTrQK6V6avbRvx0eQZthqDEEQr5VHc-B22k2272b1ne-OYhWIoULE62PnjS1AwRZGZVxg2coI5xn01Zov1X4_CaVpb9PKTQMyzkvCsZDnY_gD5qYYqUdWHlm/s320/101_0814.JPG" width="320" /></a><br />
Figure 5 - Detent plunger system fitted<br />
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The detent plunger has a wedge shape when viewed from the side, but an inverted V shape when viewed from the front - this is to allow the indexing of the tooth tip instead of the gap between the teeth. This means I can index in the gaps of a 20 tooth gear, then rotate the plunger 90 degrees, and then index off the tooth tip and obtain another 20 positions - allowing me to generate a 40 hole plate from a 20 tooth gear.<br />
The mount block for the detent plunger is bolted to the vertical arm of the bracket in one of 3 positions, allowing for a wide range of gear diameters. The large hole drilled through the body (from it's previous scrap origin) is used to secure the plunger with an elastic band if the internal spring is needing a little help.<br />
The last article will cover (albeit briefly) the sector arms, plunger arm, and retaining mechanism.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjq1SeIHtnOP7JR51QCJKsnA8lwyIJry6vm0RMu-E_i5LQyhCGXEtZsxG-M1-tKkvrBs65G_8_SKjPcyNqDCjqoRDq_Edojo1Y0hkcZRuEzwZ_dq3CcrLVbo7gp315N9fmwG8mW1ONgB8jI/s1600/101_0815.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a><br />
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Next project for documentation will be the field desk if I get it completed on schedule.des bromilowhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09894433410422774724noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8261361407257616190.post-68588814531847284362011-05-10T06:48:00.000-07:002011-05-10T06:48:07.973-07:00Dividing Head for Taig (and others) - Part2 - plate carrier and wormThe plate carrier was made from 1/2" plate. A piece similar to the brake was made and the plate carrier was bolted to it. One bolt holds the piece on, and another engages a curved slot which is used to adjust the amount of backlash in the worm/spur gear engagement.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3RlNwoKgbdR5eSPYKNz84LU5O6kcJQnyrH-YV0_TAFK-IX06c4hZMZJstm-wJMsbbYKHiZ89v0PVSGg8-9y0OITi44kCLO7uw0pJaBQlTJLxVJ-EN37Rkmt7UGuUBqGb97AW0CWHyjxbw/s1600/101_0801.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3RlNwoKgbdR5eSPYKNz84LU5O6kcJQnyrH-YV0_TAFK-IX06c4hZMZJstm-wJMsbbYKHiZ89v0PVSGg8-9y0OITi44kCLO7uw0pJaBQlTJLxVJ-EN37Rkmt7UGuUBqGb97AW0CWHyjxbw/s320/101_0801.JPG" width="320" /></a><br />
Figure 1 - plate carrier/ worm assembly<br />
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Another piece of metal is made which has a 1" diameter spigot which is about 0.5mm thick. This spigot is made to match the hole in the middle of a hard-disk platter. A piece of 1/4" brass has been drilled in to intersect the edge of the hole and a corresponding notch is cut into the platter to stop it rotating. A cover plate is made with a corresponding hole and screw to lock the plate (Hard-disk platter) in place. Yes that's chatter marks from turning... that work was done on a stub arbor.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi02EpXFkf4wHEUW4ilsCDbBYlHuzvTlbBpG6kMLwcEziaMWGAccD7GS7WYL-eVcWjw03tzx5inekaqrVTTZJeYbyWMZExlh6eBedQB-wkHY8l8IQFYWGcJ3GaiobCc_HF_v6ePXS242vzv/s1600/101_0802.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi02EpXFkf4wHEUW4ilsCDbBYlHuzvTlbBpG6kMLwcEziaMWGAccD7GS7WYL-eVcWjw03tzx5inekaqrVTTZJeYbyWMZExlh6eBedQB-wkHY8l8IQFYWGcJ3GaiobCc_HF_v6ePXS242vzv/s320/101_0802.JPG" width="320" /></a><br />
Figure 2 - plate carrier with spigot<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVvkveolSDQunapMJDNI6qvMd8U9Pron_IaHeftlg4LleK-O-MRKKhqgm5JbKAfSgmFtg6H7iVf9StFpLYhFoEIHZ0WxwH2peU9-MX34Mzg_nrfUxuZEXxNRy1SjUyyg5XEdUayp-5HCAH/s1600/101_0803.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVvkveolSDQunapMJDNI6qvMd8U9Pron_IaHeftlg4LleK-O-MRKKhqgm5JbKAfSgmFtg6H7iVf9StFpLYhFoEIHZ0WxwH2peU9-MX34Mzg_nrfUxuZEXxNRy1SjUyyg5XEdUayp-5HCAH/s320/101_0803.JPG" width="320" /></a><br />
Figure 3 - Plate mounted on spigot<br />
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The plate retainer is basically a brass plate with a hollow spigot on it. The worm shaft passes through the spigot, whereas the sector arms rotate about the spigot.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5c0wVsEKdvpohI1HhtRFqNHRjDHEf7oaGQg0RTU6aRzbRpsI2VyK7czsuZtREaKt3_gpycbjWzEDxKFFThNoHPXwqzuy8CmoM9-OK8fe0K-HHf6dXgf5rIooApAUHfiK3Rq2QBKxTd667/s1600/101_0804.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5c0wVsEKdvpohI1HhtRFqNHRjDHEf7oaGQg0RTU6aRzbRpsI2VyK7czsuZtREaKt3_gpycbjWzEDxKFFThNoHPXwqzuy8CmoM9-OK8fe0K-HHf6dXgf5rIooApAUHfiK3Rq2QBKxTd667/s320/101_0804.JPG" width="320" /></a><br />
Figure 4 - plate retainer holding plate on spigot<br />
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The other main feature of the plate carrier is that the part which carries the plate can be rotated through approx 90 degrees. This was cut from a piece of plate, mounted on a stub arbor, and turned to match the curvature of the mating piece. A slot was cut in the side rim whic mates to a threaded hole in the main part. The purpose of this is to allow the plate carrier (and attached plate) to be rotated independently from the worm itself over a 90 degree range. Why? Imagine you mount something requiring 13 divisions in the chuck on the dividing head, and then need to index another section of the same piece with 19 divisions and one section needs to be perfectly in line. I can mount up, cut one set of indexed points, apply the spindle brake, then change the plate, and move the plate to align exactly with one plate hole, then re-commence indexing for 19 positions. Maybe something which will only happen once in a blue moon, but it cost me little but time to add it into the design.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0LEDkh97uuIuXCwvQ60sMjn-Md14w3BY3bh9Jv57-9ZoAHLWfHHfmu5qbvA2kTEbZzf4q8FdgV9gmMujbO4Szhy58AmIidwLSH_CKv0bEWdTPpKTfVPV-lwKeX-WnFsjK7Bzfn_XQk7Y3/s1600/101_0821.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg0LEDkh97uuIuXCwvQ60sMjn-Md14w3BY3bh9Jv57-9ZoAHLWfHHfmu5qbvA2kTEbZzf4q8FdgV9gmMujbO4Szhy58AmIidwLSH_CKv0bEWdTPpKTfVPV-lwKeX-WnFsjK7Bzfn_XQk7Y3/s320/101_0821.JPG" width="320" /></a><br />
Figure 5 - one extreme of plate carrier adjustment<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwRtjr0UII6dvwAGTNlmw-ZSDuxuENO9LGdLjV3yDd7n0DTFdC-_K6K7dG06nYXdmFmp3k83pe3akbofSuMbArZxcn5cylzjqNzFAOVHQsJgMGN9N0UTPV5X3FYmaYAT71HydhyphenhyphenK8bKXvb/s1600/101_0822.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwRtjr0UII6dvwAGTNlmw-ZSDuxuENO9LGdLjV3yDd7n0DTFdC-_K6K7dG06nYXdmFmp3k83pe3akbofSuMbArZxcn5cylzjqNzFAOVHQsJgMGN9N0UTPV5X3FYmaYAT71HydhyphenhyphenK8bKXvb/s320/101_0822.JPG" width="320" /></a><br />
Figure 6 - another extreme of plate carrier adjustment<br />
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The worm itself was cut down from the original shape when removed from the sewing machine. A triangular groove was turned in it which intersects with a pointed socket-head screw used to lock it in longitudinal position, and a pair of flats and 1/4-20 thread was cut into the end. These correspond with the sector arm, and retaining nut respectively.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhR1yUMATpQJXSjsVE432Y1Cf6xO_FO8d61zs5pzTkn4Cc3Y0sRzVvK71XVy7u7obg5QHfxEqX10GOLNwchbJ6jB89OZz_jcvZ7bwV5rTV2VdwapqknVcnj_blKg7adAGDKzXLG6_cV7VkO/s1600/101_0819.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhR1yUMATpQJXSjsVE432Y1Cf6xO_FO8d61zs5pzTkn4Cc3Y0sRzVvK71XVy7u7obg5QHfxEqX10GOLNwchbJ6jB89OZz_jcvZ7bwV5rTV2VdwapqknVcnj_blKg7adAGDKzXLG6_cV7VkO/s320/101_0819.JPG" width="320" /></a><br />
Figure 7 - worm in carrier showing flats and threaded sections<br />
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All bushings in this part of the dividing head are simple yellow brass, not bronze. At the time I built this I could get surplus electrical test probes from the local salvage place for a couple of dollars. Each probe comprised about 12" of 1" diameter nylon with a 1/4" bore, and a corresponding length of 1/4" brass rod in the middle. A few other bits made up the probe, so I was able to get nylon (for rail buttons) and brass rod quite cheap. The interface disk from the probe was used to make the plate retainer since it was 1 1/2" in diameter, and about 1/4" thick. I miss that shop. Pretty much all the remaining brass I have is from various scrap merchants, or salvaged from all sorts of junk.<br />
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I'll cover generating plates and direct indexing next.des bromilowhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09894433410422774724noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8261361407257616190.post-70922541534156396682011-05-08T02:03:00.000-07:002011-05-08T02:03:31.509-07:00Dividing Head for Taig (and others) - Part 1 - Body and introductionThe dividing head was inspired by the work done by <a href="http://www.jeffree.co.uk/pages/divheadmk1.html">Tony Jeffree</a>, and then heavily modified to suit my own circumstances and situation. (Note - Tony has a second design which uses a Taig spindle - see <a href="http://www.jeffree.co.uk/pages/divheadmk2.html">this link</a>)<br />
All photos in this series of articles were taken after construction had concluded since I did not have a camera during the build. This build occurred in Q2-3 of 2005 and was documented on <a href="http://www.cartertools.com/picture.html">Nick Carter's page</a> back then.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj86LNGfWg_vKgZc4br1NTqCiCglh-g3_OxsiLFmPFNGP4J8ZFvpyTIPmkRdXKnMBuDKZsu4ZlRPgoPsMOM1oYSkQ-dbnBtArlP75-zpBHrb8soeLcaywEzl_SkCikjA45jrvWNxQte_jXg/s1600/desbro21.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="234" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj86LNGfWg_vKgZc4br1NTqCiCglh-g3_OxsiLFmPFNGP4J8ZFvpyTIPmkRdXKnMBuDKZsu4ZlRPgoPsMOM1oYSkQ-dbnBtArlP75-zpBHrb8soeLcaywEzl_SkCikjA45jrvWNxQte_jXg/s320/desbro21.jpg" width="320" /></a><br />
Figure 1 - Dividing head in use on Taig Lathe<br />
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You can buy dividing heads - example shown here from Amazon, and there are books which touch on building your own (another example from Amazon) - in short, you need to decide what resources you have,and determine the best course... in my case I did not have a great amount of money, and I did have some time, and a willingness to learn - this meant I made my own. If I had the money... the start of many dreams. I don't have either of these products, but show them as examples of alternatives to scrap metal, wrecked sewing machines, etc.<br />
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<iframe align="left" frameborder="0" marginheight="0" marginwidth="0" scrolling="no" src="http://rcm.amazon.com/e/cm?t=desprojec-20&o=1&p=8&l=bpl&asins=1878087053&fc1=000000&IS2=1&lt1=_blank&m=amazon&lc1=0000FF&bc1=000000&bg1=FFFFFF&f=ifr" style="align: left; height: 245px; padding-right: 10px; padding-top: 5px; width: 131px;"></iframe><br />
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<b>Building the dividing head body and base.</b><br />
I started by making up a spindle. Tony's one used a drill chuck, but after reading many text books which talked about not disturbing work in chucks, I decided it would be better to make my dividing head use the lathe chuck if possible. This meant I had to make a spindle with a nose of 3/4"-16 tpi, with a 30 degree included angle for collets, and a through spindle bore of at least 3/8".<br />
I had previously bored the spindle of my Taig lathe to 7/16" not long after purchasing it so I could pass 3/8" stock through the head - I used the same drill size to bore out the spindle of the dividing head.<br />
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Using a larger lathe (Thanks Dad!) I turned a 3/4-16 thread on a piece of 3/4 shafting, and drilled/bored the 7/16" through hole. I then made a collar which was shrunk on to form the register face for the lather spindle nose. This register face ensures the alignment of the lathe chuck. Whilst facing the register face, I also bored the tapered seat for the taig collets.<br />
At the same time as all this lathework, I also threaded the other end of the spindle (3/4-16) to use for thrust nuts, and securing worms , etc.<br />
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By the time I'd finished the spindle, I was back home, and unable to access Dad's lathe - this meant all subsequent work was done on the Taig Lathe.<br />
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The body of the dividing head was made from a short length of 50x50 (2' x 2") aluminium I picked up at the scrap dealers. <br />
The base plate of the dividing head was made from some 1/2" plate which was a reject from some CNC mob (I picked it up at the same scrap dealer as the 2"x2" piece)<br />
I found if I stacked the 2" x2" on the plate, on the carriage, the centreline was in line with the spindle. Perfect for my immediate plans, and in line with my longer term goal.<br />
The theory was I'd build the head on the plate base, and then should I every need to use the head on another lathe, it was simply a case of making a new base plate.. all other parts will transfer across.<br />
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The base plate was cut to square the end (The off-cut piece became the handle of my 3/16" allen key) and appropriately drilled and counterbored for the Taig slot pattern.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcSRYAXo2GKLndenp7DvuAlWUSsbZlq7P2Zdm9HGr0JbnDf0eq39s10oGHLQR2PhWSQmC5MBRkuTlMlgAqk6f7UkecCt6YOKyfTNo-YHHFCeuHY39A-Tr47k8A716NS8p8wwVvp5KLfdYq/s1600/101_0798.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcSRYAXo2GKLndenp7DvuAlWUSsbZlq7P2Zdm9HGr0JbnDf0eq39s10oGHLQR2PhWSQmC5MBRkuTlMlgAqk6f7UkecCt6YOKyfTNo-YHHFCeuHY39A-Tr47k8A716NS8p8wwVvp5KLfdYq/s320/101_0798.JPG" width="320" /></a><br />
Figure 2 - original base plate shape - allen key handle made from off-cut.<br />
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The square body was then bolted to the plate, and line drilled and line bored on the Taig. Somehwer in all the line boring I used a shaft as an arbor, and turned the square body on the shafting to form a spigot at one end of the body.<br />
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The line boring provided a clearance fit for the 3/4" diameter spindle, and a light press fit for the bushes used at each end.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7dfAx3NDzHf9QYmG-5z7NwUCjjIbtkyVG2QVbLSiIa_lIT7YmFQ9Kw9tMKj47IIaosl1PJfAoN7bYvUcStfWwFenFW1TQpP8avZfaKiVKjJCdlp291BM1vEuQ_wenK0RLPOMkAy9OI1uV/s1600/101_0796.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi7dfAx3NDzHf9QYmG-5z7NwUCjjIbtkyVG2QVbLSiIa_lIT7YmFQ9Kw9tMKj47IIaosl1PJfAoN7bYvUcStfWwFenFW1TQpP8avZfaKiVKjJCdlp291BM1vEuQ_wenK0RLPOMkAy9OI1uV/s320/101_0796.JPG" width="320" /></a><br />
Figure 3 - Body on base plate<br />
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A brake was made and fitted to the front of the body which engages the collar shrunk onto the spindle.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwkHQxh1g2ZxCiY7ptcZ4ANc0CT1kDUSuHVPIB-BWmtioOY3oG9BOvkk2DyZ8GHZqnhvEQ8SXLLa64H_QbqjZ6SqlT3aeA_3QP8W_6tJ7S4Y6s0IcVRYpXEsFZR5EJgMXNw3FOEMb5N4o7/s1600/101_0797.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgwkHQxh1g2ZxCiY7ptcZ4ANc0CT1kDUSuHVPIB-BWmtioOY3oG9BOvkk2DyZ8GHZqnhvEQ8SXLLa64H_QbqjZ6SqlT3aeA_3QP8W_6tJ7S4Y6s0IcVRYpXEsFZR5EJgMXNw3FOEMb5N4o7/s320/101_0797.JPG" width="320" /></a><br />
Figure 4 - Front of body showing brake on collar<br />
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The spigot which was turned on the rear of the body is used to support the plate carrier. I saw somewhere that some dividing heads are used horizontally and vertically, and that some models allow the position of the plate to be changed to make things easier on the user... seemed like a good idea to incorporate into my build.<br />
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The worm and gear for my dividing head was salvaged from an old Singer sewing machine I found on the side of the road on curb dump day. It's a 24:1 ratio set which is OK for this design. I bored out the spur gear to suit the spindle, and cross drilled and threaded some grub screws in place. A normal 3/4-16 nut was cut down and faced to become a thrust adjustment nut. The other half of the thinned nut is often spun on to the spindle after the spur gear as a lock-nut. The grub screws on the spur gear engage in filed flats in the spindle thread.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjoU94Rt_rGO3X5LHIqHCDA7ZVFOOqS58b582-mcgs63GD2ybYjC4F4SjNe18KmHWZJPjV37-7K5yj17dkuwnFKl991ZiQH8wbvVupY6Oz2XBSgvULjeyJrjjk5RvnVCPGSrVwLPyxGfH0/s1600/101_0799.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjoU94Rt_rGO3X5LHIqHCDA7ZVFOOqS58b582-mcgs63GD2ybYjC4F4SjNe18KmHWZJPjV37-7K5yj17dkuwnFKl991ZiQH8wbvVupY6Oz2XBSgvULjeyJrjjk5RvnVCPGSrVwLPyxGfH0/s320/101_0799.JPG" width="320" /></a><br />
Figure 5 - spigot, thrust-nut and worm on spindle.<br />
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The plate carrier will be discussed in another article, but here is a photo of it in it's place on the spigot.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGfsf-VEOjqI74-1pT7yDxzCJS_ZUyESGm6aqgDBG9iNxJZlTlMxIqkWlhf8liJJ5Y9KFVNYVP43xdgkd8L6xM7WCkBFsboiTtggwQq0AjUXrh1kvLlvZcMGnGbfkiE-ut2dHyMs3MSFkW/s1600/101_0800.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGfsf-VEOjqI74-1pT7yDxzCJS_ZUyESGm6aqgDBG9iNxJZlTlMxIqkWlhf8liJJ5Y9KFVNYVP43xdgkd8L6xM7WCkBFsboiTtggwQq0AjUXrh1kvLlvZcMGnGbfkiE-ut2dHyMs3MSFkW/s320/101_0800.JPG" width="320" /></a><br />
Figure 6 - Plate carrier in place on spigot<br />
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The body really isn't much more than support for the spindle, and a means to hold everything else on the dividing head. I tried to design the body to make the head transferable from one machine to another - the base plate is the designed mechanism to permit that.<br />
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The plate is designed with holes in a grid to allow the plate to be mounted on Taig T-slots either parallel, or perpendicular to the slots.<br />
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Next articles: Plate carrier, plate generation, and sector arms and worm driving.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj86LNGfWg_vKgZc4br1NTqCiCglh-g3_OxsiLFmPFNGP4J8ZFvpyTIPmkRdXKnMBuDKZsu4ZlRPgoPsMOM1oYSkQ-dbnBtArlP75-zpBHrb8soeLcaywEzl_SkCikjA45jrvWNxQte_jXg/s1600/desbro21.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><br />
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In the meanwhile I got the carcass of the field desk made yesterday, and hope to have the woodwork completed over the next week or so, then make up the catches, hinges, and handle over the next week, then inletting, finishing and it's complete. Everything takes time since I only have one day per week to do work - I try to keep the Sabbath holy, and work does a good job taking the other 5+ days... My wife is a darling since she encourages me to spend at least half of every Saturday in the shed - for that I'm most grateful.des bromilowhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09894433410422774724noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8261361407257616190.post-86171348054172652922011-05-01T07:06:00.000-07:002011-05-01T07:11:41.234-07:00Third hand - electronics toolI have some work on the horizon where I may be away from my shed for periods of time. It's still up in the air, in the hands of Heavenly Father, managers, and others. In the meantime I'm getting things ready...<br />
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One of the things which I'm going to need is a portable electronics kit. My current setup is based on an old fishing box full of tools, and several tubs full of parts in various trays, etc. I've decided the best method to deal with the proposed situation will be a "field desk" with the minimum of what I require, and a contained work area.<br />
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The desk will be covered in another article series, but this article introduces the first tool made for the field desk... the third hand.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVxp2-ijZngrGeQ67_63Inf5gqYfuPECQ_D3JTP3NUwsz6D3rq8jDCoRlXkxy6fnSf6k2gCkwL9Mr9Ig6VJDMdeMX-9xVIGK5BE40zyr68YWgWuG1mwuqP4UrJfKv9XN3GfsWto3vitYvx/s1600/101_0788.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVxp2-ijZngrGeQ67_63Inf5gqYfuPECQ_D3JTP3NUwsz6D3rq8jDCoRlXkxy6fnSf6k2gCkwL9Mr9Ig6VJDMdeMX-9xVIGK5BE40zyr68YWgWuG1mwuqP4UrJfKv9XN3GfsWto3vitYvx/s320/101_0788.JPG" width="320" /></a><br />
Figure 1 - third-hand in use - salvaged PCB from old fire-panel<br />
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For those who aren't familiar with the term, a "third hand" is simply a means of holding something whilst keeping your own two hand free. I used a third hand whilst at uni and found the design quite good and duplicated the essential features here.<br />
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There are other designs out there. most work on the principle of a heavy weighted base for stability, and then posable arms terminated with clamps. The one I used at uni (made by the lab techs there) used lightweight materials and a door hinge for the "pos-ability".<br />
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The only concession from their design to mine was that mine had to be collapsible so it took up less space in the field desk. The original unit did not come apart, and as such occupied a space of 200 x 125 x 150mm (8"x 5" x 6") - this design occupies the same space in use, but folds down to 180 x 125 x 35mm (7" x 5" x 1 1/2") for storage.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxWbgvLCFiDWy1xoFbm69qULYo01LFwKm9DpWi8jI_VXpbDxfqTenNyHUD_9XcO2vM7wbrwhFEvgqjQ2gbeGthKMEhN32EireVyg_E2CiU0IM8ZSQLUyGCkARptM_HrkEMVi57b_xHhyphenhyphenC-/s1600/101_0789.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhxWbgvLCFiDWy1xoFbm69qULYo01LFwKm9DpWi8jI_VXpbDxfqTenNyHUD_9XcO2vM7wbrwhFEvgqjQ2gbeGthKMEhN32EireVyg_E2CiU0IM8ZSQLUyGCkARptM_HrkEMVi57b_xHhyphenhyphenC-/s320/101_0789.JPG" width="320" /></a><br />
Figure 2 - flipped to other side for soldering work.<br />
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Since the unit can flip too far in one direction, a small piece of perspex can be inserted to limit the travel of the hinge as shown in Figure 3.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiPY3L1RlJQm2niFenTM_4Q5_aZIDHwretYgz44bXht7o6L4JYpqYAB8Ww5unfaK3-lCTNRwhSF8_RtPNu_n3vXha1lsvLJEx11AVlva1NDG3LgmE3jnSdnBmbqGlZMY8ySxNJjBLQrJna/s1600/101_0791.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiiPY3L1RlJQm2niFenTM_4Q5_aZIDHwretYgz44bXht7o6L4JYpqYAB8Ww5unfaK3-lCTNRwhSF8_RtPNu_n3vXha1lsvLJEx11AVlva1NDG3LgmE3jnSdnBmbqGlZMY8ySxNJjBLQrJna/s320/101_0791.JPG" width="320" /></a><br />
Figure 3 - inserted piece of perspex limits hinge travel.<br />
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I used some of the perspex I salvaged from some shop shelving, and cut it to utilise the existing lip which was on it.<br />
A pair of pieces were cut to match and support the hinge, and this pair were then drilled to sit between the two halves of the base.<br />
Some bolts were modified to make them "tool-less" by soldering their heads into a brass piece which had a square washer affixed - I'd have preferred wing nuts and wing-bolts but didn't have any.<br />
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The clamp which supports the PCB is simply one leaf of the hinge, and a piece of aluminium which is made from a drawer divider. The cranked over fold is used to form one part of a toe-clamp, and to provide clearance over the nut which holds the bolt in place.<br />
A stiffening plate is captured under these bolts to provide more gripping surface. Again due to my lack of wingnuts I made up some nuts using brass. The brass used for making the wing nuts (and bolts) is from discarded tap spindles, the sheet from an old door strip.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfXvSYeuEoWuv4ZquQGwk1ZB1NDixAzvO5wENue1T5kJr4lFTQQlbPN5HNRGMtmlneDLknVmHr8WcOjH3d5lrxewiYhSDbXRgEnbYvgv6lWhS4ELgpCYBUgnYqzvZJZmdtkb3DQmoKFJ5T/s1600/101_0792.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfXvSYeuEoWuv4ZquQGwk1ZB1NDixAzvO5wENue1T5kJr4lFTQQlbPN5HNRGMtmlneDLknVmHr8WcOjH3d5lrxewiYhSDbXRgEnbYvgv6lWhS4ELgpCYBUgnYqzvZJZmdtkb3DQmoKFJ5T/s320/101_0792.JPG" width="320" /></a><br />
Figure 4 - cross- view of PCB clamp with perspex gripped for illustrative purposes<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMaVnaNJo0CLA36dmBAwniQyCOxmWyE7y59W8SYZthrYKtoSjdX91j403Pphwybc3FnI61_PTB1idh56R1qzvpd2dlM6J5yD65wAMovLAKZn3zU6jWaYvqIgX75xID5PGLWAeIla_ernUy/s1600/101_0793.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMaVnaNJo0CLA36dmBAwniQyCOxmWyE7y59W8SYZthrYKtoSjdX91j403Pphwybc3FnI61_PTB1idh56R1qzvpd2dlM6J5yD65wAMovLAKZn3zU6jWaYvqIgX75xID5PGLWAeIla_ernUy/s320/101_0793.JPG" width="320" /></a><br />
Figure 5 - View of base assembled showing component parts.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBYv4fv2RJ7FqRcWKZQIfF0EOf_JbA1SFoYr96feIRhZ1EmN7wzpZncRcz0k9wci_AFlTYVsPyvZjTricZkgmS1Wkse42KcxbBta7T7ZDszAzcnRlzHGoj6pHymyB1Vi7HhgwXcuPo0PLi/s1600/101_0795.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBZen9cVgLCetuhV4Bjce58SDk85ZLP0Ls6h8v_BNU-bbzmEQ8DE-yBzPGhxVIqkCbGtSFivMAAL99OHIm8OBRtX8FtCDJ_5kJ2eMYc4-Ddb3QH5_jUxbj0MAUv8eneJ-pmkzEPS8ln_JK/s1600/101_0794.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBZen9cVgLCetuhV4Bjce58SDk85ZLP0Ls6h8v_BNU-bbzmEQ8DE-yBzPGhxVIqkCbGtSFivMAAL99OHIm8OBRtX8FtCDJ_5kJ2eMYc4-Ddb3QH5_jUxbj0MAUv8eneJ-pmkzEPS8ln_JK/s320/101_0794.JPG" width="320" /></a><br />
Figure 6 - dis-assembled third-hand showing all parts<br />
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Soldering is simply done with a propane torch, using "Baker's fluid" as the flux, with normal 60/40 soft solder. Only the minimal amount of solder is applied, and excess is trimmed away to prevent absorption through normal use.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBYv4fv2RJ7FqRcWKZQIfF0EOf_JbA1SFoYr96feIRhZ1EmN7wzpZncRcz0k9wci_AFlTYVsPyvZjTricZkgmS1Wkse42KcxbBta7T7ZDszAzcnRlzHGoj6pHymyB1Vi7HhgwXcuPo0PLi/s1600/101_0795.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBYv4fv2RJ7FqRcWKZQIfF0EOf_JbA1SFoYr96feIRhZ1EmN7wzpZncRcz0k9wci_AFlTYVsPyvZjTricZkgmS1Wkse42KcxbBta7T7ZDszAzcnRlzHGoj6pHymyB1Vi7HhgwXcuPo0PLi/s320/101_0795.JPG" width="320" /></a><br />
Figure 7 - Third-hand collapsed ready to be stowed<br />
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The field desk will be built with PICAXE projects in mind. I have a few which I need to get completed, and since all I can have at the camp is books, and minor electronics (no Lathe or other powertools) I figure this will make good use of what spare time I have.<br />
Even if this proposed change falls in a heap, the investment in making this desk, and associated tools will still benefit my electronics hobby.des bromilowhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09894433410422774724noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8261361407257616190.post-73176536089159105862011-05-01T02:42:00.000-07:002011-05-01T02:42:00.989-07:00DTI Mag-Base repairsa while ago I discussed a broken mag-base I salvaged from being tossed out. That <a href="http://desbromilow.blogspot.com/2010/05/indicator-stand-magnetic-disassembly.html">article</a> discussed the dis-assembly of the mag base.<br />
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In an effort to get the "To Do List" a little smaller I finished off the repairs to the indicator base.<br />
I used the spindle from a discarded tap to make up an actuating system for rotating the mag-core. I simply filed the required square shape into the section which used to hold the jump valve.<br />
The threads which actuate the original tap were turned away, and replaced with a parallel section.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZhGlH1KVHblAXWerk2DPxsVysCL5ecToshELPLdbJZprpr-N0W4IKxmc1pHQZvaAp-E24lrVPbuspIHtysDa2Z8NHQSfZ3OoVAgtr7CUpiqcMHXW5vQLLQxhWH8F_OL2zqKrbmEa41J9b/s1600/101_0824.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZhGlH1KVHblAXWerk2DPxsVysCL5ecToshELPLdbJZprpr-N0W4IKxmc1pHQZvaAp-E24lrVPbuspIHtysDa2Z8NHQSfZ3OoVAgtr7CUpiqcMHXW5vQLLQxhWH8F_OL2zqKrbmEa41J9b/s320/101_0824.JPG" width="320" /></a><br />
Figure 1 - Tap spindle filed to square<br />
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A plastic bush was turned to locate the mag-core inside the void in the mag-base, and to provide support to the spindle. The plastic was from a sheet of 25mm (1") thick plastic (nylon I suspect) that I rescued from a bin. A suitable square was cut from one corner, and a 10mm hole drilled through it. A 10mm bolt and nut were inserted, tightened up, and used as an arbor for the turning. Whatever the plastic was, it certainly was "stringy" in the swarf.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjr0qM-TvyjnOpxm3YC7eTX0-nQJVVcqx31ZGmvw3WSq_A4N8nY-JWCrTZuL3lhOzDt7f9QECMaW3QVxYBE_-zUUnvxtbZ99kqGN9eNcSDS2UHcnHlkiPMVstMg_gchuIHTgjMHeynzMthg/s1600/101_0825.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjr0qM-TvyjnOpxm3YC7eTX0-nQJVVcqx31ZGmvw3WSq_A4N8nY-JWCrTZuL3lhOzDt7f9QECMaW3QVxYBE_-zUUnvxtbZ99kqGN9eNcSDS2UHcnHlkiPMVstMg_gchuIHTgjMHeynzMthg/s320/101_0825.JPG" width="320" /></a><br />
Figure 2 - Commencing turning the plastic bushing<br />
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A brass indicator/ handle was made from an old brass fitting, and some sheet brass, and soldered together.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-0i-qaCc9o2Z7NDLVACCZGQFYbBqW0memLZ8GqdbRmP5bUpAJNVDuPidrOJid8xZVtx6jeYu6D6y9hhnKJoIE0i82aTbOF2TnXxTtrrvgfcz8uzJPyOKllU0dgjnhIDwYrDOyQUxWnHzP/s1600/101_0826.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-0i-qaCc9o2Z7NDLVACCZGQFYbBqW0memLZ8GqdbRmP5bUpAJNVDuPidrOJid8xZVtx6jeYu6D6y9hhnKJoIE0i82aTbOF2TnXxTtrrvgfcz8uzJPyOKllU0dgjnhIDwYrDOyQUxWnHzP/s320/101_0826.JPG" width="320" /></a><br />
Figure 3 - Actuating knob and pointer prior to soldering<br />
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The spindle was designed to pass through the front plate which was made from some brass strip. The front plate is shown on the RHS of the exploded view below (Figure 4)<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUuHf1z-9kARM1IKN2KQOO5S1RyPwFtrzACPzON2p9iJ-NRzjBheQsfqj9lmmplyUGbwUImsh3pR3Gbk__ylfKe2BcnqLy13LepRyu88YNXLulpdyK5DoG4uDqY9rmeGsHGxhVCrKUWFvN/s1600/101_0827.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUuHf1z-9kARM1IKN2KQOO5S1RyPwFtrzACPzON2p9iJ-NRzjBheQsfqj9lmmplyUGbwUImsh3pR3Gbk__ylfKe2BcnqLy13LepRyu88YNXLulpdyK5DoG4uDqY9rmeGsHGxhVCrKUWFvN/s320/101_0827.JPG" width="320" /></a><br />
Figure 4 - exploded view of mag-base<br />
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In the above exploded view, everything to the right of the magnetic core, and everything above the magnetic base were made from salvaged materials.<br />
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The magnetic core was filled back to remove the old damaged paint, and engraving markings. A few minor dings were cleaned up, and then the base was primed with cold-gal paint (Zinc-it) then followed up with a couple of light coats of Silver Hammer finish paint.<br />
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Upon assembly it was deemed too difficult to re-drill the existing holes to their proper spots, so new holes were drilled for securing the face plate.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSxppUrwgneGj96nWhv3p3w-VHtetXxgL2q4Ld-Kgf8tBfATfpElBLiMvT3qQNOqf4Yz4N0ABFJsE3b_vCNOHWWfHCbMcGe87rhnJB2TehLPSm3on3TCrm-XQPnvlU4B0IF1wT1ilNEmW7/s1600/101_0828.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjSxppUrwgneGj96nWhv3p3w-VHtetXxgL2q4Ld-Kgf8tBfATfpElBLiMvT3qQNOqf4Yz4N0ABFJsE3b_vCNOHWWfHCbMcGe87rhnJB2TehLPSm3on3TCrm-XQPnvlU4B0IF1wT1ilNEmW7/s320/101_0828.JPG" width="320" /></a><br />
Figure 5 - the magnetic core in the base with the spindle and bushing in place.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIIZxrGAtN0Oe2o4GILiYj9zmHKSUEwhdpeWuqkZ1r2kAB5wId_savQA_AFiyfPIDAj3o2-rtgp7762_Obv9T1KjYSHL9cdD8dCgKkv5mXggU03AbGApmEaP7811fGCC_9J_PSJahlbwz8/s1600/101_0829.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIIZxrGAtN0Oe2o4GILiYj9zmHKSUEwhdpeWuqkZ1r2kAB5wId_savQA_AFiyfPIDAj3o2-rtgp7762_Obv9T1KjYSHL9cdD8dCgKkv5mXggU03AbGApmEaP7811fGCC_9J_PSJahlbwz8/s320/101_0829.JPG" width="320" /></a><br />
Figure 6 - The mag-base assembled<br />
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One of the salvaged lengths of steel from a gas strut was used to make the mast on this base - although a brass socket and washer was turned from an old extinguisher part (CO2 nozzle) to stiffen the joint instead of simply using the M8 thread.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1XW7Ru1vOrVlb7zuUocZMJo28_whaMtZJ599JbksDJvF-qxbduq4jjP7CJBy1BGG9DJtme2C1FjtnQmqp0zdNJ7MvWkRUVneBrFDjBOFmyEkMhmL3fgzdVAoDzh3qCvV2UzVxzQ3xEdjH/s1600/101_0830.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1XW7Ru1vOrVlb7zuUocZMJo28_whaMtZJ599JbksDJvF-qxbduq4jjP7CJBy1BGG9DJtme2C1FjtnQmqp0zdNJ7MvWkRUVneBrFDjBOFmyEkMhmL3fgzdVAoDzh3qCvV2UzVxzQ3xEdjH/s320/101_0830.JPG" width="320" /></a><br />
Figure 7 - The mast on the mag-base made from gas strut<br />
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An offcut of the gas strut remains, being about 125mm (5") long which will most likely be used for making one of the connecting rods.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnWJp44tEuVFwdKKouY8OmtQyEeH12HXhdQV2qexNwzUeE-DGw0II82lExpJsTj2eVqCSwpm_K9PdtmHjgGpwl1CMZVDPpPhmSrDspT7ho3F3MqH8xdCZ1tdt-D8p_yKS6b5x5_pW0E6NW/s1600/101_0832.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnWJp44tEuVFwdKKouY8OmtQyEeH12HXhdQV2qexNwzUeE-DGw0II82lExpJsTj2eVqCSwpm_K9PdtmHjgGpwl1CMZVDPpPhmSrDspT7ho3F3MqH8xdCZ1tdt-D8p_yKS6b5x5_pW0E6NW/s320/101_0832.JPG" width="320" /></a><br />
Figure 8 - The completed mag-base next to the Taig lathe.<br />
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I've possibly made the mast too tall, but standing next to the Taig lathe, it has sufficient height to ensure access to anything I put in the lathe, or the vertical slide. I've yet to make the other smaller poles, joiners, and DTI connectors, but that should be fairly easy to do over the next few weeks.<br />
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That said, guess who's added more projects to the list... You'd think I'd have learnt by now, or maybe it's my curse (or is it blessing) to always have more jobs than hours to complete them...<br />
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I did up a quick explanation of how a mag-base works for someone, and decided to include it here in case anyone else needs to know how they work. I've since cleaned it up and converted it to a JPG.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgC-P-FrgH2XiVEw03j0wXkopXPVji2Z_fHAsMDC7mG39Up4orHYWj0SYTviNFZBVHaNwhb-S2u8UIXOHM-qqy_hNG9dW_1LSecpIIrA8ijwzN5FH8N9x56DBvH7BnwxDV5Y-PJBNlO2DvK/s1600/mag_base_operation.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="255" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgC-P-FrgH2XiVEw03j0wXkopXPVji2Z_fHAsMDC7mG39Up4orHYWj0SYTviNFZBVHaNwhb-S2u8UIXOHM-qqy_hNG9dW_1LSecpIIrA8ijwzN5FH8N9x56DBvH7BnwxDV5Y-PJBNlO2DvK/s320/mag_base_operation.jpg" width="320" /></a><br />
Figure 9 - Theory of operation - magnetic standdes bromilowhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09894433410422774724noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8261361407257616190.post-38646171462307097522011-04-25T06:33:00.000-07:002011-09-16T17:04:43.783-07:00And now for something completely different - some quilts I madeJust for something a little different - much different than driving the lathe.<br />
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Everyone who knows me knows I have a myriad of interests, and will have a go at just about anything. I started sewing properly back in 1990, and have dabbled ever since. I've no plans to make a career out of it, but I've already saved a lot by doing alterations and repairs. Here is some photos of the two quilts I've made, or helped make.<br />
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Gift 2004 - Noah's ark quilt 1330 x 1560mm in size<br />
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Central panel hand quilted by my wife - panel is one of the preprinted style available through the fabric stores.<br />
Surrounding panels have a set of themes.<br />
The two side sets (vertical set of 4 panels per side) are the land animals<br />
The top set of panels (5 panels) are the animals of the air (birds and bugs)<br />
The bottom set of panels (5 panels) are water animals.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4UEKGs0STgZvs-R8-2Mj44DkC3huTsB6RADjr5V1e4xrLyERufFCbgJN8rjMzswdZH8HYlGoYPa-pFP1dGkeK0Tl2-0hX22fWj2aSrxTfqGNw882LyLftyRE1fLoU0x5a4_cKvpOLRRSu/s1600/noahs_ark_foreground+only.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="279" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4UEKGs0STgZvs-R8-2Mj44DkC3huTsB6RADjr5V1e4xrLyERufFCbgJN8rjMzswdZH8HYlGoYPa-pFP1dGkeK0Tl2-0hX22fWj2aSrxTfqGNw882LyLftyRE1fLoU0x5a4_cKvpOLRRSu/s320/noahs_ark_foreground+only.jpg" width="320" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSV98BsIOmlxkkhLjY4U0QOJu83Dctepzj80SPRUf_4iDqQR-XLPtwjzz8SoYBLy95PhD35SJgCnl0wpA6isydNueUDg1v4YtQ1WqTI6rDbDDsHbLFaHq-THm0dZ2uoSp9wv9D5l5Qw_pS/s1600/Disney_Friends_Put_a_Bounce_in_Your_Heart.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a><br />
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The borders to the panels sets are made in the colours of the rainbow and orientated to form a circular pattern around the ark.<br />
The corner panels also have a theme which commences in the low RH corner and is read in a clockwise direction.<br />
Low Right Hand Corner - the rains commence and the waters start to rise<br />
LLHC - the rains continue and the waters are significantly higher<br />
ULHC - the dove brings back the olive sprig<br />
URHC - the waters recede from off the face of the earth<br />
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All panels with the exception of the large central panel are made from machine based applique methods.<br />
All fabric is poly cotton - pre-shrunk, and sewn with polyester threads.<br />
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The rain in the lower corner panels is over-sewn with a silver metallic thread for effect.<br />
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A sample of some panels are shown in the photographs<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAwI8AWeXN6IP5tqtzfHwpAMo2KhQp2yrxrooSjOGD1Bo9L6aweXkzlJb60OsagzU0efHKgVOZVxhBqMf2j0GEmzYGWjpFlMh4LKb6R2hdMaI0jSmvkqXVfP538wxkcEWKJ1VLJd-r2Ooo/s1600/IMG_1297.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmAtlSLSKpABfpfquXioPLckomBmoFSmKKqcWVWXtIbffB4WUjU9NouXOa_k1nDxk3vTqZiMiJVuJ5neLS5KBR_2CRIw9lJ30X-1J34oc6HuujB5ITTzt7O3drxDrF0QArwpPhCH-MRveE/s1600/IMG_1306.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmAtlSLSKpABfpfquXioPLckomBmoFSmKKqcWVWXtIbffB4WUjU9NouXOa_k1nDxk3vTqZiMiJVuJ5neLS5KBR_2CRIw9lJ30X-1J34oc6HuujB5ITTzt7O3drxDrF0QArwpPhCH-MRveE/s320/IMG_1306.JPG" width="320" /></a><br />
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The panels were designed by downloading images from the internet of animals (I found colouring pages to be the best for size and line detail), or I simply drew the images myself. I then made the applique pieces, turned them, and sewed them in place to create the panel. Detail such as leaves, bubbles, etc were then added, and the panel completed.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhmM6xDHu001931X-ZIgEUI2z63_C5cWnYB8WOP16ruWOCiOfTk0nD5tgzVn7M38eXxAwmk0ntF9j-J9r2uHSdcBndx_pGMOCBCi-wZ5OwpVKir8nsk9R2Wo24z8SvKbLuavWe0EKlYhwa/s1600/IMG_1309.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhmM6xDHu001931X-ZIgEUI2z63_C5cWnYB8WOP16ruWOCiOfTk0nD5tgzVn7M38eXxAwmk0ntF9j-J9r2uHSdcBndx_pGMOCBCi-wZ5OwpVKir8nsk9R2Wo24z8SvKbLuavWe0EKlYhwa/s320/IMG_1309.JPG" width="320" /></a><br />
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The dove was particularly painful due to the colours of the rainbow.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_ewkfORY7Nz5vUBio7PTiz_tx9i7cnKlMu6fNh6oXqWm4v36plF6BYpYYoEdmwkA9kDE_h_Bag2IxefFkffucI_DCxJe6BLHINDgdzpsoAoTO0nFrYbSyae5J01ai284mwteYgmvp_BW5/s1600/IMG_1324.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_ewkfORY7Nz5vUBio7PTiz_tx9i7cnKlMu6fNh6oXqWm4v36plF6BYpYYoEdmwkA9kDE_h_Bag2IxefFkffucI_DCxJe6BLHINDgdzpsoAoTO0nFrYbSyae5J01ai284mwteYgmvp_BW5/s320/IMG_1324.JPG" width="320" /></a><br />
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I did a dragonfly, and used a chinzy tule to make it's wings so they retained their translucent effect... that was interesting to sew.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4UEKGs0STgZvs-R8-2Mj44DkC3huTsB6RADjr5V1e4xrLyERufFCbgJN8rjMzswdZH8HYlGoYPa-pFP1dGkeK0Tl2-0hX22fWj2aSrxTfqGNw882LyLftyRE1fLoU0x5a4_cKvpOLRRSu/s1600/noahs_ark_foreground+only.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0IJ7UbiXMLT8aHWmrOgDJXQgRfnybTPCO0SCXoPV0crL9cVp0VMqOUBvv1ggz8l-rP7Rf-nIGIdFKlXmP2Ou3NB_Gqw4lKmmln_oOqD9y-w95BFfsH5JaY0tfMQ9pE9QvTGyJLjTAoc2I/s1600/IMG_1316.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0IJ7UbiXMLT8aHWmrOgDJXQgRfnybTPCO0SCXoPV0crL9cVp0VMqOUBvv1ggz8l-rP7Rf-nIGIdFKlXmP2Ou3NB_Gqw4lKmmln_oOqD9y-w95BFfsH5JaY0tfMQ9pE9QvTGyJLjTAoc2I/s320/IMG_1316.JPG" width="320" /></a><br />
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The quilt was made as a gift for my wife's best friend, and we both considered the effort we put into it time well spent for the recipient.<br />
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<b>A quilt which I made for my beloved wife...</b><br />
2006 - "Friends put a Bounce in your Heart" Winnie the pooh - 2100 x 2300mm in size<br />
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Started with a picture I downloaded from the internet which I blew up by clipping a sheet of builders plastic (orange translucent sheeting) to an overhead projector screen, and then opening the picture in a PC connected to a data projector.<br />
Then it was simply a case of tracing the projected image onto the plastic and using that drawing for my cutting pattern.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSV98BsIOmlxkkhLjY4U0QOJu83Dctepzj80SPRUf_4iDqQR-XLPtwjzz8SoYBLy95PhD35SJgCnl0wpA6isydNueUDg1v4YtQ1WqTI6rDbDDsHbLFaHq-THm0dZ2uoSp9wv9D5l5Qw_pS/s1600/Disney_Friends_Put_a_Bounce_in_Your_Heart.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSV98BsIOmlxkkhLjY4U0QOJu83Dctepzj80SPRUf_4iDqQR-XLPtwjzz8SoYBLy95PhD35SJgCnl0wpA6isydNueUDg1v4YtQ1WqTI6rDbDDsHbLFaHq-THm0dZ2uoSp9wv9D5l5Qw_pS/s320/Disney_Friends_Put_a_Bounce_in_Your_Heart.jpg" width="256" /></a><br />
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Fabric was standard polycotton - preshrunk, sewn with polyester threads.<br />
Style was normal machine applique.<br />
At this stage the tracks of the bees and butterflies form the only quilting in the border panels.<br />
The corner panels are each quilted with one letter of "POOH"<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbge6ddqzJdkQDDoN6-IfWb6zeDw6gs5HLZYeIj4Kg5o7QAP9_KkZye3Mwubq-QAPcnuj76TQzV7LN-umiAPwVV1gK2HjEfhu3Kn9xu6EveKj85GFo-BNCR2DXC5dfY8SkwBop3A5yRugU/s1600/210x230_quilt_1_fore.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbge6ddqzJdkQDDoN6-IfWb6zeDw6gs5HLZYeIj4Kg5o7QAP9_KkZye3Mwubq-QAPcnuj76TQzV7LN-umiAPwVV1gK2HjEfhu3Kn9xu6EveKj85GFo-BNCR2DXC5dfY8SkwBop3A5yRugU/s320/210x230_quilt_1_fore.jpg" width="292" /></a><br />
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This quilt was made during a holiday where my wife left town to visit family, and I built my furnace - My better half was gone for about 8 days, and I would get up each day and work on the furnace from 7am until 2pm, then clean up and work on the quilt from 2pm until 11 pm. I think I threw in a couple of full days 7am-11pm) as well just to ensure this was done before she returned. It then sat in storage for a few months until it was given to her for a Christmas gift.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSV98BsIOmlxkkhLjY4U0QOJu83Dctepzj80SPRUf_4iDqQR-XLPtwjzz8SoYBLy95PhD35SJgCnl0wpA6isydNueUDg1v4YtQ1WqTI6rDbDDsHbLFaHq-THm0dZ2uoSp9wv9D5l5Qw_pS/s1600/Disney_Friends_Put_a_Bounce_in_Your_Heart.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><br />
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There is a panel stitched into the back with the title and dates of the quilt.<br />
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Equipment:<br />
I have 2 sewing machines, and one overlocker - All I'm missing now is a table tennis table so I have a large foldup surface for laying out patterns and pinnings. Currently I use old doors on saw horses.<br />
The sewing machines are nothing fancy - an old Elna air electronic I purchased secondhand, and a cheap Toyota which we bought when the Elna was looking like it was struggling repairing heavy fabric clothes (denims) - both machines have functioned flawlessly as long as we look after them.<br />
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I don't make quilts often - too much on "the list" as it is, but I'm often sewing at least once every month or two doing clothing repairs, or making some little doo-dad. Two weeks ago I made some ID card holders since the one I use at work fell apart and I blamed it on the poor design... let's see if my new design lasts longer than 3 months, then I can skite about it. My multimeter case worked well and has held up for quite a while now without concern.<br />
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This is how the kitchen table looked whilst I was making the panels for the Noah's ark quilt... another reason why I don't make quilts too often.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAwI8AWeXN6IP5tqtzfHwpAMo2KhQp2yrxrooSjOGD1Bo9L6aweXkzlJb60OsagzU0efHKgVOZVxhBqMf2j0GEmzYGWjpFlMh4LKb6R2hdMaI0jSmvkqXVfP538wxkcEWKJ1VLJd-r2Ooo/s1600/IMG_1297.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAwI8AWeXN6IP5tqtzfHwpAMo2KhQp2yrxrooSjOGD1Bo9L6aweXkzlJb60OsagzU0efHKgVOZVxhBqMf2j0GEmzYGWjpFlMh4LKb6R2hdMaI0jSmvkqXVfP538wxkcEWKJ1VLJd-r2Ooo/s320/IMG_1297.JPG" width="320" /></a><br />
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Many many thanks to those people who have taught me various sewing tricks over the years... Mostly Lyn for first teaching me how to use a sewing machine, then Rosemary for first teaching me how to use an overlocker, and Myjalessa for all the fancy tricks. I know I've missed others, but those three certainly started me off with this.des bromilowhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09894433410422774724noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8261361407257616190.post-19599451597909054002011-04-25T04:07:00.000-07:002011-04-25T04:07:46.629-07:00Taig lathe cabinet -control panel and switchesTo conclude the discussion about the construction of the lathe cabinet, I'll now cover the switches, and finer points of the control panel<br />
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In my day job (which seems to cover days, nights, weekends, and other times as well... but that's another story) I am quite familiar with industrial emergency switches - aka E-Stops, or "Lock off stops" (LOS)<br />
Industrial E-stops tend to have replaceable contact blocks which bolt to the back of the switch mechanism, and these contact blocks can be double sided, stack-able, and able to be used in a variety of configurations to suit the control need.<br />
I have one or two of these switches which I've salvaged from discarded equipment, but the contact blocks add at least 40mm (1 1/2") of depth behind the faceplate - unsuitable given the space constraints at the tail stock.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-IfU5hZSt4A5NnoUmmpnKIf358v-aTyKmbzHnxMUOLa-fBDGtppWxq3XQFs3Upf8ZZbhV2y4UQWw_NRglSUqywDmaFLXi0jFjYe9QP87CGkNNuoVRqIxHyIktZWdVIOwt0v4c6b6DRUZe/s1600/e_stop2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-IfU5hZSt4A5NnoUmmpnKIf358v-aTyKmbzHnxMUOLa-fBDGtppWxq3XQFs3Upf8ZZbhV2y4UQWw_NRglSUqywDmaFLXi0jFjYe9QP87CGkNNuoVRqIxHyIktZWdVIOwt0v4c6b6DRUZe/s320/e_stop2.JPG" width="320" /></a><br />
Figure 1 - Two N/C switches with perspex circles glued on<br />
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Since I only had 18mm (3/4") behind the switch at the tail-stock, I decided to build my own e-stop switch until a commercial alternative presents itself. I purchased a number of N/C (Normally Closed) momentary push-button switches from one of the e-bay stores (<a href="http://www.virtualvillage.com/">Virtual village</a> from memory) to use as e-stops.<br />
I also purchased some N/O (Normally Open) momentary push-button switches as well... for some reason the N/C switches were only available in Yellow, and the N/C in Red - no matter.<br />
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I then cut out some suitable sized circles of perspex (Hole-saw with the pilot drill removed - whole job done by clamping in a drill press) and glued the circles on the button face using a cyano-acrylate based glue (Loctite Prism, or some other form of "super glue" - aka "crazy glue")<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHrRO_EsWY75xA5bGFjv0dPUA3GjPt_KTGx-sxtNRpKKhwz-EDFi_2OTfWdV7S12pkZmWIQrdM-XOYyD9evIR0sIqSGAH4OfG_thSym5IotspkKFku9XI8Xl9lpJDAm35GGVqbKbxZtxg8/s1600/shroud2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHrRO_EsWY75xA5bGFjv0dPUA3GjPt_KTGx-sxtNRpKKhwz-EDFi_2OTfWdV7S12pkZmWIQrdM-XOYyD9evIR0sIqSGAH4OfG_thSym5IotspkKFku9XI8Xl9lpJDAm35GGVqbKbxZtxg8/s320/shroud2.JPG" width="320" /></a><br />
Figure 2 - N/O switch with smaller perspex circle glued on, next to bored out PET bottle cap<br />
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The two e-stops were then painted red using a sheet of paper glued over the perspex, and paint sprayed onto that. The paper makes the perspex opaque, and helps it take the paint better.<br />
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A similar method was used to make the button on the N/O switch slightly larger, and painted green.<br />
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The N/O button was to become the "Start" button, and as such I felt should be shrouded to prevent accidental activation. I could have made a nice professional shroud using pipe with an end cap soldered in and bored out, or I could simply grab a lid from a PET soft-drink bottle and bore it out to match the switch body.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0_glGo6gUT3j12A-S56rRuxqkbvERVVcWBhab7yAvBRZz3qot2_9SCvDJEIEEbOp2VJBdNs7z1foiUJQAQaCRiRTO9yim5fVaYZZeXKVrN1BFjxTjMFi21XaXTW1tozGb-BO-Btj-tqXq/s1600/shroud3.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi0_glGo6gUT3j12A-S56rRuxqkbvERVVcWBhab7yAvBRZz3qot2_9SCvDJEIEEbOp2VJBdNs7z1foiUJQAQaCRiRTO9yim5fVaYZZeXKVrN1BFjxTjMFi21XaXTW1tozGb-BO-Btj-tqXq/s320/shroud3.JPG" width="320" /></a><br />
Figure 3 - Test fit of "Start" button in shroud - using tail-stock mini-panel for support.<br />
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The panel was marked out and drilled for all switches prior to painting, and the back was marked up to make wiring easier.<br />
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The PWM circuit (commercial kit from<a href="http://www.oatleyelectronics.com/"> Oatley electronics</a> - Kit K252 ) was grafted on to a surplus Pentium heat-sink, which was then screwed to the top inner surface of the control panel so the fan blew directly on it. The on-board potentiometer was replaced with a wired external unit which is accessible as the speed control knob on the control panel. I had a few hiccups with the kit, but not as a result of any problem of Oatley's... All resolved now, but issues included one terminal block cracking when tightened up, and a dodgy soldering job on one oscillator pin. <br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAZziLUEDBcgiPW6VkNyD6BP6yWjQfA_Hdq-SOcQNHtp0PCgf09M6_9NmjA11NqH-_U4XhctKjyOn6BUIIvFYfur8ZCzCWq3zjaaS4cIyMNQGkfu6TnUz1DnLTTkhVcDboyRA9zIiUVV0K/s1600/panel_bk_uw.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgAZziLUEDBcgiPW6VkNyD6BP6yWjQfA_Hdq-SOcQNHtp0PCgf09M6_9NmjA11NqH-_U4XhctKjyOn6BUIIvFYfur8ZCzCWq3zjaaS4cIyMNQGkfu6TnUz1DnLTTkhVcDboyRA9zIiUVV0K/s320/panel_bk_uw.JPG" width="320" /></a><br />
Figure 4 - Back of control panel with PWM circuit assembly resting on it<br />
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I used some of my salvaged spiral wrap for the cabling - turned out to be a disaster since the wrap was so old the plastic was brittle. I had a chat with Wayne at Rexel and bought some more.. cheap chinese stuff instead of the the Cabac brand we use at work, but certainly much cheaper... and it seems OK for my use.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-dlZJWtXGlROIxzAaVSev-NafUuI26CvaXy5obiAzcY6NKjnfNTzpyEilGzPcMJMyBp0Z54lwktSxJS-8tf1jBM5pXgsOu2x3UZP_PCK0y6ACI9-EIyx4GBr8sMB1IQISh9j2HUHcPO-p/s1600/panel_dt_uw.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-dlZJWtXGlROIxzAaVSev-NafUuI26CvaXy5obiAzcY6NKjnfNTzpyEilGzPcMJMyBp0Z54lwktSxJS-8tf1jBM5pXgsOu2x3UZP_PCK0y6ACI9-EIyx4GBr8sMB1IQISh9j2HUHcPO-p/s320/panel_dt_uw.JPG" width="320" /></a><br />
Figure 5 - Control panel front view prior to painting or labelling.<br />
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The cabling of the control panel was covered in my previous post and will not be repeated.<br />
The control panel was simply painted "Bender grey" along with all the panel work and a label was made up.<br />
The label was made from creating the text and dial markings, warnings etc in Paint, and then assembling them on a page and printing it out. I then cut the paper up, and rearranged them to match a tracing already done from the finished panel. Securing screws, holes for breakers, relays, controls etc were marked in and the text placed around them. Once completed, the finished sheet was then placed through a colour photocopier and trimmed for effect. A pass through a laminator and re-trimmed and it was ready to be glued to the control panel. Peter Homman described a similar method for the prototyping of control panels for products, including membrane switches - it's a good idea I was grateful to be able to learn from.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPhYLSbI9d0RQ8qfUxj3C_HIhjQzUSgycgIK0DNylYIAc_7ofZuyo94vm3WhOe5PwO6A89n8L62ZZoFEcr3-jIQUb-RcnKyzwzxlVB7jm3lGLrqpCpAhWMYAyqDMkY9vUf48G1NjYIZU5F/s1600/frnt_panel.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPhYLSbI9d0RQ8qfUxj3C_HIhjQzUSgycgIK0DNylYIAc_7ofZuyo94vm3WhOe5PwO6A89n8L62ZZoFEcr3-jIQUb-RcnKyzwzxlVB7jm3lGLrqpCpAhWMYAyqDMkY9vUf48G1NjYIZU5F/s320/frnt_panel.JPG" width="320" /></a><br />
Figure 6 - completed control panel with paint and labelling<br />
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A quick few notes:<br />
<ul><li>I won't be adding anything more to this Taig lathe cabinet article series unless someone needs clarification on something... use the "contact page" to send through any questions.</li>
</ul><ul><li>I don't plan on offering any drawings or plans.. I can take a few more photos, but that'll be only if requested.</li>
</ul><ul><li>If you're in Australia... look at Oatley for cheap kits and other interesting bits and pieces. The motor currently fitted to this lathe is one of their 300W scooter motors. Since there isn't a cheap source of treadmill motors in oz (similar to the big surplus stores in USA) this is a good alternative. I've bought from Oatley over the years and found their prices and range reasonably good for a number of products.</li>
</ul><br />
Lastly... what would I do differently if I repeated this project?<br />
<ul><li>Use a finger brake for the panel work for a neater finish</li>
<li>Make the swarf gate bigger, and the swarf container smaller (so an industrial E-stop with contact block can fit)</li>
<li>Use more flexible cable for the 20A DC wiring</li>
<li>Add a separate circuit breaker to allow the motor drive (PSU, and PWM, etc) and the fan to be operated separate from the supply to the GPOs </li>
</ul>In the words of Porky Pig, "That's all folks"... next post will be back on one of the many other projects I'm trying to get off my "to do list"des bromilowhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09894433410422774724noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8261361407257616190.post-71723421260176303862011-04-19T22:08:00.000-07:002011-04-19T22:08:38.655-07:00Taig lathe cabinet - schematic and cablingI started out designing the cabinet by deciding what I wanted (features list).<br />
I wanted:<br />
a) - drawers accessible from the front<br />
b) - shelf above main deck for commonly used things<br />
c) - a deck to support the lathe, with enough room for accessories<br />
d) - the deck needed to be thick enough for drilling and tapping into<br />
e) - the deck needed to be magnetic (for DTI bases)<br />
f) - the deck needed to have a raised edge so things couldn't fall off it<br />
g) - preferably no "traps" for swarf to build up in<br />
h) - a way to easily remove swarf<br />
i) - motor mount which permitted unloading of belt<br />
j) - accessible power points<br />
k) - variable speed motor<br />
l) - reversing motor<br />
m) - task lighting<br />
n) - controls accessible without reaching through rotating parts<br />
o) - cabinet wired as an "appliance"<br />
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Points J to O are basically electrical in nature and influenced the electrical design.<br />
The electrical design was done with a sketched up line drawing based on the salvaged parts I had (from some scrapped switching machines)<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5xzXg5WgPTSlMTlaZsb5yQHBv-hLri1dzL-45R36fzmjvWKKfsJE24S6_D7AApKBlfDl-xb1HZJrpVdoDmqT_W6OucACrzGxoWnJunZuZSAzhcNBDYzxKjUTdVs5zBJY0uroGjRjqlEtx/s1600/rough_dwg2.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5xzXg5WgPTSlMTlaZsb5yQHBv-hLri1dzL-45R36fzmjvWKKfsJE24S6_D7AApKBlfDl-xb1HZJrpVdoDmqT_W6OucACrzGxoWnJunZuZSAzhcNBDYzxKjUTdVs5zBJY0uroGjRjqlEtx/s320/rough_dwg2.JPG" width="320" /></a><br />
Figure 1 - Hand drawn schematic of circuit<br />
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Whilst building the cabinet, I used a hand drawn schematic, but then once completed, I drew it up properly (Paint then exported to jpg) for the "point to point" testing.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYPZsEQDIwgby3gF_MpkaThzkqldqZOhSsVdrMnwnBbisdShHyvFgyLozhG_mJpVyNOeYYuKEOU4DEMv0xsG-UpccHUYrPPxrOcBASZzPdXM4m3NLDF2MUkMZgV46pOja3te0tnPfsWyDY/s1600/DWG_taig_stand.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="186" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhYPZsEQDIwgby3gF_MpkaThzkqldqZOhSsVdrMnwnBbisdShHyvFgyLozhG_mJpVyNOeYYuKEOU4DEMv0xsG-UpccHUYrPPxrOcBASZzPdXM4m3NLDF2MUkMZgV46pOja3te0tnPfsWyDY/s320/DWG_taig_stand.JPG" width="320" /></a><br />
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Figure 2 - Schematic done to a more professional standard<br />
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The variable speed motor was accomplished with the use of a Pulse Width Modulated (PWM) controller, with a large (6800uF electro) capacitor added for smoothing - subsequent discussion on aus.electronics demonstrated that this smoothing cap should not be added, so it was subsequently removed. I added a 20A DPDT toggle switch for accomplishing the reversing function.<br />
The mains voltage design started with a IEC socket (with line filter) which is switched through a 10A MCB (miniature circuit breaker). The circuit supplies a pair of double GPOs, and a fan which pulls air into the control cabinet. The supply to the PSU is controlled through a 10A DPDT relay which uses latching circuitry on one set of contacts to hold the supply on to the PSU, dropping it when either "E-Stop" button is pressed. The relay pulls in if the start button is pressed, but loss of supply will release it, and restoration of supply will not automatically re-close it without another button press. This supplies the No Volt Release (NVR) functionality I wanted for safety.<br />
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Supply from the PSU is fed through a SFKOL (GE motor start over current protection device) and to the PWM speed control. The SFKOL protects the PSU from a short in the motor, cabling, or PWM circuit.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQxM_wsOQ02jlv4owNwpbGqPLXIUwGzZ9ih1OuTeg4EEKaHE4h2VdJYe-V3DYR_uxGbcymXod4K8vDlWBkQ-jWPYh4vtc4omok1d3BKa_yEtZF9wBMDGGdzeedX0LxChcIk5O0ERRk8PgQ/s1600/cabling1.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjQxM_wsOQ02jlv4owNwpbGqPLXIUwGzZ9ih1OuTeg4EEKaHE4h2VdJYe-V3DYR_uxGbcymXod4K8vDlWBkQ-jWPYh4vtc4omok1d3BKa_yEtZF9wBMDGGdzeedX0LxChcIk5O0ERRk8PgQ/s320/cabling1.JPG" width="320" /></a><br />
Figure 3 - Wiring commencement<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUDiTqytKstdYe7Q17_eUl8S6lpybvXmIsq13b58_GKawiPHA7N_TqpDl8jII-TwAkBvUdZRJfRVqQFvB_j9xRPFWIUGbk4MQ8gINMhBpp3LCA-fPjLwPSS3vu1d2nxrXg67KnqzmAyLL5/s1600/spaghetti1.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUDiTqytKstdYe7Q17_eUl8S6lpybvXmIsq13b58_GKawiPHA7N_TqpDl8jII-TwAkBvUdZRJfRVqQFvB_j9xRPFWIUGbk4MQ8gINMhBpp3LCA-fPjLwPSS3vu1d2nxrXg67KnqzmAyLL5/s320/spaghetti1.JPG" width="320" /></a><br />
Figure 4 - Wiring continued<br />
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All 240VAC wiring was done with 2.5mm2 cabling, and all 24VDC wiring done with 4mm2 cabling. I tried to maintain the wiring code relevant to Oz with respect to colours of cables, and marking of earth, etc.<br />
The majority of cabling is contained within the control cabinet, but there is some cabling which is outside the cabinet. The motor cable, and base "E-stop" circuit are passed through the floor of the control cabinet using cable glands in a non-ferrous gland plate. Both cables have an Earth core, although the motor cable earth is not connected to anything at the motor.<br />
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The E-stop cable has a protected connection on the rear of the backboard where connection can be broken for service. The cable to the RHS base E-stop (tail stock E-stop) is routed inside the tube frame for protection, and a 5mm (3/16") thick support rod was welded into the frame to support the cable so it couldn't foul against the drawers, or the swarf gate. The support rod is shown with a light gauge test cable. The heavier (orange sheathed) cable is held in place with the support rod using cable ties (aka zip ties).<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEht3vnL0vTGB1iEoahG8X-y-OIXY8hgfCOoKitqmceWvH2qKvwVO3pEFrB7b4f-DG7mX9e_TTPpRmzECCZKCDmBkTcYmRt83bwc1YcnSPEAPU0nAsbsLm2pceB_FFyof1HTAjLzInl4cFzI/s1600/TS_cable_path.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEht3vnL0vTGB1iEoahG8X-y-OIXY8hgfCOoKitqmceWvH2qKvwVO3pEFrB7b4f-DG7mX9e_TTPpRmzECCZKCDmBkTcYmRt83bwc1YcnSPEAPU0nAsbsLm2pceB_FFyof1HTAjLzInl4cFzI/s320/TS_cable_path.JPG" width="320" /></a><br />
Figure 5 - Tailstock cable support rod test<br />
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The back of the tail stock E-stop is shielded by a sheet metal cover, which terminates the Earth core. Bonding of this Earth to the base frame is accomplished by the face mounting screws, and another bonded cable.<br />
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The entire lathe cabinet is technically an appliance, and as such was tested for Earth Leakage, insulation resistance, etc prior to powering on. All tests passed.<br />
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Still to be described - the panel controls and constructing the switches.des bromilowhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/09894433410422774724noreply@blogger.com0