Reprint Popular Mechanics sets, and other Algrove gems

As part of pointing out useful books and references, I'll start with one of the two biggest sets I have.

The Popular Mechanics "Shop Notes" books have been read now, cover to cover at least twice, and I fear the number of bookmarks in the books make them lean when stacked.

I saved up and bought the reprint set through Lee Valley tools a few years ago, and have used some of the methods and ideas in there at work from time to time - a wonderful reference.

The link to the set is here, and currently costs $165 USD. You can buy the books in sets of 5, or as individual books, so budgeting can be eased. I cannot recall the exact shipping charges to Oz, but I know it was quite reasonable considering the number of books.

Each book is roughly the same size at 240mm x 165mm x 15mm (H x W x T) although the thickness does vary a little with some books being 12mm thick, and others at 18mm thick. The books are all black and white reprints, and of excellent quality and reproduction.
The picture below is from the Lee Valley page noted above.

The reprint series is printed/ published by Algrove, and some of the books are listed on Amazon such as this. It's your call how you like to buy books, but with the above information and links, you should be able to find the books.

If you can afford it, there are two other sets of books well worth looking at from Lee Valley (not saying the rest aren't good, but these are ones I can reccomend based on reading them...)

The first other suggestion is the "Boy Mechanics" series - it's a set of four books, each the size of a novel. They remind me of the books my Dad had when he was young, all about things boys can build from timber, salvaged materials, etc.
UPDATE!!! - Whilst checking for the link I found this set is being discontinued and is heavily marked down!!!! A shame, but don't miss out. The link to the series is here through Lee Valley

The picture is again from the Lee Valley webpage. Some of this series can be bought for a similar (discounted) price from Amazon like this.

The last set of books I grabbed from Lee Valley was the "Bull of the Woods" books. They are a series of machinist orientated cartoons. There is a similar cartoon in the old Model Engineer magazines about "Chuck, the Muddle Engineer", but the "Bull" series is more serious, but just as funny. The books are the size of a Reader's digest, and each cartoon is a single frame, one per page. Here is the link from Lee Valley, and the picture below.

I did find a listing for one of these reprint books on Amazon, but I won't insult anyone by posting the link.. the "sellers" wanted $222.80 USD for the one book new... compared to the $3.95 USD ea at LeeValley, you can see why I don't bother linking the listing.

These books represent a valuable archive of knowledge and ideas from the period of time when machines were powered from shafts and belts, and CNC and computers were unheard of, HSS was a new thing, and even electric motors were a rarity.

The Popular Mechanics set includes gems such as how to turn a pulley of 28" diameter on a lathe capable of only 16", or how to lift several tonnes of line shafting up into the shaft hangers without using a crane - the list goes on and on... If I had to choose only one set from the three mentioned here, this would be the set. I hope my own children will learn from the sets as much as I have.

NOTE: Just a general note about the postings discussing books. Where possible I'll provide links to purchasing the books, and try and provide options. Typically Amazon will carry the books at the best price, but there is the odd, rare occasion where it's cheaper elsewhere, or amazon doesn't carry the books. In those cases I'll provide links, and comments to that effect - it's nothing against Amazon (goodness knows they get enough of my money as it is), but I try to stretch my money as far as possible, and presume others have the same limitations...

Still alive - ingot trays

Sorry this posting has been late in coming... I've several previous projects to document, so the fact I haven't been in the shed is no excuse for not writing.
I'm currently putting the finishing touches on the design for the backgearing of my Taig lathe. I built and installed a leadscrew (with halfnuts) about 18 months ago, and the intent was always to add change-wheels and a spindle gear to drive it. I stopped working on that (temporarily) while I figured out how to drive the leadscrew, and get the speed ranges I was seeking - the backgearing evolved from that, and now it's practically completed in it's design (Got more parts for it today), I'll start construction of it this weekend.

It's kind of ironic when I think of it... I bought the lathe so I could build a hybrid rocket motor. I didn't start that because I wanted to bring the lathe up to spec with what I wanted. That meant I had to build other tools (furnace, etc), which created more needs, and on and on it goes. Now here I am, 10 years later, and the rocket motor still isn't built, and even if it was, I can't use it in this area.
Not that I regret the journey, but it is a long road which could have been considerably shorter (time wise) if I had the money to begin with. I guess it's part of the ME (model engineering - not narcissism) sickness that every project means more tools, jigs, projects, etc

Let me introduce you to one of the projects spawned out of another project, which was built to build another project...... The ingot trays from my furnace.

The furnace (another set of pages yet to come) can hold crucibles of up to A30 - in other words 30lbs (~14Kg) of molten aluminium at a time. In "smelting mode" it can melt as fast as it can be fed (I've gone as fast as 100lbs per 10 mins) limited only by how fast the molten aluminium can be captured.
To handle excess molten metal (from smelting or casting) I built up 2 ingot trays - one small, one large. Both are made from salvaged 3"x3"x1/4" angle iron.
The small tray has lengths of 12" making the finished ingots a triangle shape with sides of around 2.75" x 2.75" on the sides (4" across the long edge) and 12" long
The long tray is made of the same angle iron, but the lengths come out at 22" - this is too long for my crucibles, so I put a removable "breaker bar" in the tray to mold in a weakened break point in the longer ingots.



The photo above shows the removable bar in place in the large ingot tray - the bar is held in place by 2 1/2" pins which rest in the short lengths of pipe welded to the sides of the tray. (pipe visible at middle of front edge of tray)

The photo below shows how the bar has "wedges" welded to it which do not come to the bottom of the angle V, but leave a 1/2" gap at the bottom for the flow of molten aluminium. The sides come to within 1/16" of the side walls. Once cold, the resulting ingot can be snapped in half by a sharp rap on the concrete floor.


The photo above also shows the angled end on the LHS - the RHS is cut square, but the LHS has about a 15 degree slope to it to aid in the removal of the cooled ingots. The RUST is left in place to act as a "mold release" to prevent the aluminium from sticking to the tray.




The photo above shows the gaps mentioned at the bottom of the angle, and the slight gaps on the sides.  All the welding is done on the outside, so there is minor narrow gaps here and there in which aluminium will freeze, but these don't seem to cause issues, and the minor loss is negligible.

Moving the trays whilst hot proved to be harder than originally thought. Originally I used hooks and wire loops, but found the trays would catch on irregularities in the concrete floor, plus I worried about the heat from the trays causing issues with the concrete floor. My sand traps didn't make the movement of the trays any easier (to put it politely) so I looked at making wheels for the trays. What I came up with is shown below...


The photo above shows the "wheels" I fitted to the ingot trays. These are simply short bolts with their heads welded to the inside of the tray with the shanks pointing towards the middle of the tray. The bolt then had a number of wide washers slipped on the shaft, and then a nut wound on and captured with a wire threaded through a cross hole to stop the nut coming off too easily. Four of these were welded on each tray so the wheels worked along the long axis of the trays. The existing wire loops (handles) were retained, and the trays moved quite well over concrete, and sand traps.





As you can see, these trays don't need to be "babied"... they sit out in the weather, and are ready for use whenever they're needed since the rust helps release the ingots.
The height of the rays is so slight, they fit under the furnace drain hole to catch any crucible failures, (or smelting mode), and the wire loops are long enough to permit one tray to be lead in under the furnace without disturbing the other tray - making swapping from one tray to the other seamless, without spills.

All welding was done with my CIG stick welder, and the original cutting of the 3x3 angle iron was done at work on one of the bandsaws.

What would I do different if I built more? I'd probably make the trays only take 3 ingots at a time, instead of 4 to reduce weight. I'd make the ingots all the same size, instead of maximising use of salvaged metal. I'd learn how to do internal fillets so the trays didn't have small internal seams.

I've a few other projects already completed to document, so I'll try and get them done, even if the current projects aren't getting the progress I want them to have.

not forgotten, just flat out

I haven't written lately due to other demands on my time and energy.
Generally I'll try and publish based on the current projects, or projects I've already completed, and have documentation for.

Because of the various demands on my time and energy lately, I haven't done anything in the shed except some minor cleanup and salvage - hardly worth reporting yet, although what was salvaged will hopefully prove quite useful.

What's taken my time? - work, church, responding to emergency calls, some training, helping people with various problems, listening to people's problems, etc.
What's taken my energy? - pretty much as above - I actually find the emergency responding quite fulfilling - gives me a sense of making a difference. Listening to people's issues, and trying to help them overcome the same issues which have been in place for years and years can be quite draining.

So sorry about the rant - this post is more just a simple "I'm still alive, and I will post something of value soon" message... we all have problems - we all know people with problems.. some are there to be fixed, some to learn from, some to endure...

What's on the radar?
repair of the magnetic base indicator stand.
repair of a broken mitoyo vernier height guage
design, construction, and use of a taper turning attachment for a taig lathe
adaptation of taper turning attachment to profile copying attachment

I think that's about it - more plans than hours in the day - situation normal.

Sharpening sticks - an alternative to stones for razor edges

A recent email ad from Amazon about sharpening gear jogged my memory about documenting my own sharpening systems.

I have a number of sharpening systems I use, and use them based on what I'm sharpening, and how much shaping of the edge is required.
The systems I use for aggressive removal of material from the edge, centre around the typical stones used in most workshops and homes. A friend from wayback taught me to use babyoil on the standard carborundum stones favoured by butchers and handymen. The lighter oil carried away the metal flakes, and did not clog up the stone as it dried. I have a few "inherited" stones which are sticky and almost tar-ry in feeling with old oil soaked into them.
I also have some water stones such as this, which I use from time to time. My first water stones were actual carborundum stones, but instead of using oil on them, I used water as the lubricant. I eventually purchased a few proper water stones, but only use them occasionally.

I also have some diamond plates. I don't like calling them stones since they resemble plastic backed plates of metal, with the diamond material bonded to the metal. I occasionally use them for aggressive removal of metal, but find they can be too aggressive, and leave deep scratches. Admittedly the plates I have aren't as good as the ones in the link above, but they look similar. I think mine were some cheap chinese knockoffs, so the "fine" is more of a "medium", etc. They have their use, but I don't use them for honing an edge.

I used to be heavily involved in model rocketry, and would still be if it weren't for the firebans in this area. One of the tricks I learnt in model rocketry was the concept of mounting disposal scalpel blades into permanent holders, and then resharpening them as required. I cannot recall the webpage which introduced this concept, but from memory it was one of the HO scale sites.
The sharpening method the site used was perfect for such small blades, and I used it every since for all size blades.
The main premise of the system presumes the blade shape is already correct, and all that is required is to refine the cutting edge whilst preserving the angles. A selection of "wet and dry" carborundum paper is obtained in a number of grits - I used 400, 600, 800, 1000, and 1200.
I obtained some timber of size 35x12 (1 1/2" x 1/2") DAR (Dressed All Round) and cut it into lengths of about 350mm (14"). I cut strips from the wet and dry paper, and glued them to the wood strips using rubber cement. The photo below shows a number of these sticks with the size written on them with a permanent marker, and a 3/8" hole drilled through the top for hanging.



The other side of the stick has another size glued and labeled to it... except the stick on the right. An observant reader will notice 2 sticks with 400, and  1200 grit paper attached. Part of this was due to the even number of sides, and the odd number of papers (including the RHS one), but the main reason for the duplication is the heavy work 400 grit gets early in edge refinement, and the regular use 1200 gets for touchups. These two grit sizes get more work than the intermediate sizes, so they are duplicated. I still use the intermediate sizes, so will not give them up.

The right hand stick has a strip of leather glued to it (again with rubber cement). The leather was cut from a discarded belt, and has then had rouge rubbed into it. The rouge was standard cheap Tripoli, nothing fancy. The leather strip becomes a strop to polish away any fine scratches in the sharpened edge, and to remove any burrs or "wires" I recharge the Tripoli every now and then, but the amount is uses is almost negligible.

So how is this system used?...  The tool to be sharpened will need to have it's edge geometry already formed by some other means. I use stones if minor rework is required, if major rework, then it's power tools to the rescue (grinder)
Once the edge geometry is correct, and all deep scratches are removed by use of a stone (or extra fine diamond plate), I will use the 400 grit stick to start sharpening the edge. I usually choose to hold the stick stationary, and move the tool, but sometimes it's easier to move the stick over an edge.

As the appearance of the edge improves, I will switch the sticks to the next grit up, working from 400, through 600, then 800, and to 1000, and then 1200 grit. By the time I've gotten to 1200 grit, the edge is not changing in shape, but merely becoming smoother, and almost "frosted" in appearance.

The photo above shows a cheap garage sale knife on the 1200 grit stick. Lubricants can be used with these sticks since the paper is designed to withstand moisture, and the rubber cement was chosen for the same reason. Eventually the sticks may warp, but since I dry them after use if I wet them, I've never observed any significant warping - these sticks were made over 10 years ago. The only lubricant I've used on these sticks is water.

The photo below shows the mirror finish on the edge of a knife after using the leather strop.

The above knife was one I found laying on the road when walking to the train station several years ago. The tip had been broken away, and the edge bellied out in that area. (I suspect it had been used to twist something open, and the tip broken off as a result.) I reshaped the point using a grinder, and put a tanto style chisel point on the blade. After some work on the stones, the point, and edge of the blade had a useful blade geometry, and fairly pleasing lines. After using the sharpening sticks on it, the cutting edge (with it's mirror finish) extends from point to ricasso in a width of around 2mm (~1/16") As a knife, it's a rough cheapie which suffered a hard life, but now resides in my workshop as a general utility knife and can cut most things I point it at.


I keep mentioning blade and edge geometry. I've got a couple of books I've read which discuss how to sharpen tools, knives, etc. Both books shown below have their strengths and flavour.


The Razor Edge Book of Sharpening by John Juranitch
This book is good at explaining what to do, how to sharpen common tools, and has some good pictures covering methods, and testing an edge. John is quite vocal about how simple sharpening should be, and illustrates the gaining, and protection of edge geometry well.


The Complete Guide to Sharpening by Leonard Lee
Leonard Lee is a name most woodworkers know from the company "Lee Valley Tools". This book covers the finer detail left out of the preceding book (John Juranitch), and discusses some metallurgy, and the effects of edge geometry on certain tasks, and the effects it has on finish, effort etc. The other main appeal of this book is the demonstration of sharpening methods for common, and some "not so common" tools.

To some up, John's book is good for homeowners looking for some skills in sharpening, Leonard's book is for workshop folks looking to understand and maximise the ability of their tools. I cannot recommend one book over the other, and instead took advantage of the bundling deals amazon seems to run when buying both books together.

Everyday First-Aid kit - gloves and portability

Personal protection during emergency response is the first priority of all responders. After all, it's no good responding to an incident, and becoming a casualty as a result.
Training, exercises, shared experiences all help prepare a person for protecting themselves... and there are also procedures to help (S.O.Ps cover things such as equipment, PPE, and biological protection)

I've attended a few incidents where my first responsibilities have been more of a firstaid/ medical response, as opposed to rescue, or fire. All of these incidents have been motor vehicle accidents (MVA), and the ambulance service has not arrived prior to fire and rescue personelle. The first MVA I worked at, I forgot to wear nitrile gloves under my leather gloves due to the tunnel vision of responding. The discussion with leadership afterwords brought the training home hard. Since then I've prepared some disposable gloves and store them in my helmet for protection.
I purchased some strong disposable gloves (shown in photo below) and sorted the gloves out into pairs.


I then rolled (from the fingers to the wrist) the gloves to exclude as much air as possible, and placed the rolls in some ziplock bags. The photo below shows two pairs of gloves, in the bag - one pair on the left, the other on the right.



The gloves do settle down over time, and the bags never seem to seal 100% against air, but dust, sweat and water don't seem to get in the bag,  so that's what's important.

I got to thinking about those incidents, and came to the conclusion that I would be wise to make up a small firstaid kit. The professionals I work with use the large "Thomas packs", but for my duties and daily roles, this would represent overkill, and would be beyond my current experience and training. My criteria for the kit would be:

1 - small enough to sit on the front seat of my car, and not be in the way of passengers, or work activities.

2 - able to be placed either on my shoulder, or around my waist , thereby keeping my hands free for scaling stairs, ladders, or other paths to an injured person.

3 - contain the essentials to maintain life for the time needed for a fully equipped ambulance to arrive (estimated at 20 mins - worst case)

The intention was to be able to provide resuscitation, observations, and rudimentary bleeding control for a casualty until the ambulance arrives, or until I expect to "run out of steam".. and based on my previous experience, I'd been totally worn out after 20 mins of providing full CPR.

I purchased a "bum bag" off one of the airsoft sellers on Ebay (Note to US readers... "Fanny pack" isn't the term in Oz.. means something totally different here). I wasn't too worried about colours, but went with the typical OD green so dirt stains wouldn't be as noticable. This particular bag had a strap which could be moved from a waist strap, to a shoulder strap, which added appeal for what I was trying to accomplish.


I added a "hard shell" security case I bought from another seller, and filled it with bagged gloves (3 packs, each containing 2 or 3 pairs of gloves). The security case simply clipped on to the strap/belt.
Since the photos were taken, I've added a smaller "pouch" on the side of the bag between the bag and the glove case. This pouch holds a pair of 7" shears for cutting clothing, etc.

The bag as purchased from the airsoft guy has a number of pockets (one on the front, plus one on each end, and the main big section in the middle). I basically put a resuscitation mask, and my observations notebook (with a pencil) in the front pocket (as shown below).


Some standard bandages (not a huge selection, I'll prioritise their use on assessment of the scene), and a selection of bandaids were placed in the middle pouch with a mylar sheet (Space blanket)


A number of safety pins were pinned on the straps dotted around the bag, and some pens were clipped in convenient locations (The aforementioned pencil is my backup).



The downloadable pupil chart mentioned in the previous post has been laminated, and a copy is taped inside the obs notebook, and a strip version is loose in the front pocket.
There's still some room inside the kit, but I won't fill those spots until I have some more experience, or insight on suitable items.

Most of the time I carry my torch, and a Leatherman with me. Between those, and this kit, I'd like to think I'm more able to help others than I was previously.

I've used the Leatherman a few times at incidents and been very impressed with how well it's worked. I ended up procuring a second Leatherman after the loss of my first, and deliberately choose the Charge model for the hook blade, and the intent of using it to cut seatbelts.

I'll do up another post someday about Leathermans (and other multitools), but simply put...

I've owned several pocketknives over the years, some I've sorely missed, others I'd rather forget. I've yet to use a Leatherman I didn't trust, but certain models seem to suit my needs better than others. My previous favorite was the heavy Core model, and upon it's loss, it was replaced with the Charge ALX. I've tested the Charge TTi, Wave,Surge, Fuse, and SuperTool300. They all have their features and purpose, and none has failed to impress me. I've also evaluated a few other multitools for use... I won't mention names, but one particular unit was so bad to hold and use, I couldn't even give it away at the end. My current everyday Leatherman is the Charge ALX, carried in the old nylon pouch from the Core on my belt beside the Fenix LD2 torch. I have a backup Charge TTi in my turnout gear, with a LD20 torch.

Bladesmithing is one of my interests, and once I get the forge finished (yes another project to document) I'll get more into the forging of blades (instead of my previous "stock removal" projects), but I'll still carry the Leatherman.

ERT/ EMS/ EMT torch and pupil gauge

I use the Fenix LD2 as my current "every day" torch - it's no longer available and has been replaced with the better LD20 (click here for the amazon listing). The torch has multiple power levels, and can be switched between them quite easily (some via the push button at the rear, others through turning the bezel)
The main appeals of the LD2 series is that the battery life is great compared to the brightness, and the torch is nearly indestructible.(These comments are compared to the 4 other LED, and 3 bulb torches I used in the hunt to find a torch which fulfilled my needs at work) The battery life (in the lower power modes) is amazing, the only problem I've found is stopping other people from "borrowing" it.

I was trying to find a torch for my first-aid kit, and was looking hard at this type of torch. (image taken from a medical supply mob in UK) to clip on my kit, but most I could find contained sealed battery setups, and would be treated as disposable. Not an issue, but in my case the torch might only be needed a few times and the last thing I need is to find the heat has deteriorated the battery.



The main difference between the torch I carry everyday (in lowest power mode), and the medical torch is the pupil gauge printed on the side.
So my solution (for now) is to make up a pupil chart, and have it sitting in my observations notebook, and a strip copy laminated and carried in the pack.
Googling for a printable pupil chart was interesting... millions of  hits, but the only one I found I could download was a PDF Neurological diagnosis flowchart. To make the chart more useable to my needs, I captured the chart from the PDF, and then pasted it into a BMP (Bitmap). Then it was a simple case of copying parts of the image and pasting the pieces in the arrangement that suits my needs.



The BMP file is shown above, and you can download the bitmap chart here

I copied the BMP into a word document so I could print it out at 100%. Download the printable chart here as a word document, should anyone else need this file for similar purposes.

I'll be posting some details on my first aid kit soon, I've built the kit to reflect the incidents I've attended, and what I think I need for responding when I arrive at those incidents. The kit is built from parts purchased on Ebay, and taken from my supplies of kits at home.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Customised Meter Case - & musings

Before I get into this little project, I just want to say how happy I am Daria is finally coming out on DVD. I've bough the various box sets issued over the years by various companies, but all of them were simply DVDs cut from the "Sarcast-a-thon" showing, complete with the original music, and various station markers, and glitches.. but still Waaayyy better than nothing. But come 11th of May 2010, MTV is releasing the Daria DVD box set - still no news on the music, but again - better than nothing. I'll be buying my copy from Amazon due to the price - Here




The other musing was trying to pick a suitable photo for my profile. There was no way on earth I was going to put a photo of myself up there (It's offend the internet spirits for sure) so I was thinking about suitable "archetypes" I could use... some of the candidates included "Q" (Desmond Llewellyn) - from the James Bond franchise, "Tobermory" from the Wombles, Macgyver, Eeyore, and Alastair Cookie, and I even considered Erik (the Phantom of the Opera), but then I kept coming back to this one choice.... This man displays all the qualities and attributes I'd associate with - quick witted, intelligent, inventive, and a great many other characteristics I wouldn't dare include on a resume such as devious, megalomaniacal, and unassuming dress sense. He's Graeme Garden from the Goodies - if you missed out growing up with the Goodies in your life, take the time to get some episodes and see what the fuss was about. If you know the Goodies, you'll know and love "Graybags", even if you associate more with Bill or Tim.


On to the project...

I use a Fluke 179 DMM (Digital Multi Meter) as part of my work, and carry a number of leads, clips, and spares for the meter. One of my co-workers had a case which had the meter on one side, and the spare leads on the other, but I could not find anyone offering the case, and he'd had it for years. I got sick of carrying two cases to jobs, and so decided to make my own case.

I started with a CD wallet for the local Kmart store (big variety chain store - viz Target, or WalMart). The wallet had a zipper around three sides, and a "clam shell" design based around a firm material covered rubber. All up the case was about 50mm (2") thick when stuffed with cardboard.
The CD wallet is shown below...



I removed the CD sleeves, and salvaged the velcro strips used to hold the sleeves in place. I purchased two "cheap and nasty" pencil cases ($1 each) just to get cheap zips, and purchased a cheap roll-up cutting board for the plastic ($3 for 4 boards). The fabric is from some old work shirts that had become too ratty to wear in the shed.
I sewed up a "pouch" to sit above the meter which holds the spares for the meter (fuses, battery, holding clip)


The divider which holds the meter to the LHS (Left Hand Side) of the case is a piece of the roll-up cutting board sewn into a sleeve of cotton fabric. The salvaged velcro is used to secure the meter into the case. The spare space on the RHS of the meter is used to roll the connected leads in for easy use.

The contents of the top pouch are shown below... the brown wire is the K thermocouple used by the Fluke meters for measuring temperature.



The RHS of the CD wallet was separated from the meter section by a panel made from more cutting board plastic encased in another cotton sleeve. The panel is retained by a fabric hinge stitched in the middle of the wallet (White lines of stitching in photo above), and held in place with a velcro closure on the RHS edge. With the velcro closure opened, the panel can swing over the meter to reveal...


The spare leads are vecro'd in pairs to the top section of the panel. The thin black velcro was the last of the velcro salvaged from the original CD wallet.
The pouch sewn into the lower half of the RHS shell contains the spare tips, and probes. The pouch is a simple sewn pouch with another "pencil case" zipper for a closure.



The entire meter case took about 2-3 hours to make including the cutting, sewing, and hand stitching the pouches in place. I've now been using the case in the field for about 6 months and had no complaints about how well it's met my expectations.

A few sewing notes...
threads were typical 100% polyester threads used for normal sewing.
Sewing needle was a normal Smetz universal needle (#15 from memory) and it handled the three layers of cotton, plus the 1mm of cutting board plastic fine.
I used my Toyota sewing machine for this job since it is my current "work horse" machine. I have an old Elna "Air electric", and a Husky 4 thread overlocker, but those only get used when needed.. the Toyota is my "day to day" machine.



I'll post a review on Daria once I have it my hands!!! - Come on Amazon...