Showing posts with label lathe cabinet. Show all posts
Showing posts with label lathe cabinet. Show all posts

Tuesday, April 12, 2011

Taig lathe cabinet - control panel and top tray

So far we've designed this cabinet, planned out it's size and requirements, then tweaked it as we went into construction. All that's left now is to build and fit the panels and tray which are mounted on the back board.

The backboard contains two parts - interconnected but with separate purposes.
a - the control panel which contains all the electrical circuitry for controlling the lathe including protection, speed and direction control. The control panel also contains the breaker for the GPOs (General Purpose Outlets - aka "power points")
b - A tray for holding items used often, or needing to be up out of the way.


Figure 1 - Two parts of the top tray

The top tray was designed as a simple tray, with a false bottom which contained some GPOs. The front face of the tray was angled so the GPOs pointed downwards to prevent ingress of swarf, or coolant. I could have mounted them on the bottom face of the tray, but prefer the idea of being able to see the state of the switches at a glance.
The tray was simply folded up out of sign-white sheet metal in two pieces - the tray proper, and the supporting structure.
Holes were cut into the front face for the GPOs, and an access hole was cut in the LHS wall for cable entry.
The two halves were then riveted together, and sealed with silicone sealant to prevent anything from the top tray leaking into the false floor.


Figure 2 - Top tray assembled





Figure 3 - Top tray bolted to backboard - view from RHS.

The control panel section is a simple box. The top, rear and bottom faces are all folded from the same piece of metal forming a "U" shape. Flangles are folded inwards to form faces for the ends and front to be screwed on.
Each end piece is a separate sheet with the LHS containing a cutout to match the cable entry hole in the tray. The RHS sheet has a variety of holes cut in it for ventilation and power entry. Both side sheets have a bent section to form the side flanges for securing the front sheet.
Heavier gauge sheet metal was used for the side and front sheets to provide strength to the structure, and to support the control switches.


Figure 4 - front view of control panel showing internal flanges

I determined the size of the control box by lumping all the planned components into a pile, and then estimating it's volume. A considerable factor for cooling, wiring, and access was then added and the resulting dimensions then used.
Once built, the components were thrown into the box to test the layout and volume.


Figure 5 - Volume test of finished control box

A drawing of the box and it's airflow is shown below. The issue of the heat the 500W PSU generated was a concern, so I tried to design effective airflow into the cabinet. The PSU has  a small fan inside it, and it blows hot air out one end... to make this more efficient, I folded up a small shroud to extend the fan end of the PSU to the LHS side wall of the control box, and cut a matching hole in the sidewall. A larger fan (surplus from when I upgraded my welder) was installed in the same sidewall - so cold air is sucked in, circulated through the control box and expelled through the PSU.

Figure 6 - sketch of air-flow and major components in control box

The front panel of the control box has been bolted on for the next photo. The front face is a simple sheet of galvanised sheet-metal.


Figure 7 - Plain front face of control box

Some paint, and then a handmade label, assorted holes, controls and an indicator lamp and this is how the control panel turned out...

Figure 8 - Finished control panel

The label was made using techniques attributed to Peter Homann  along with a myriad of minor tricks I picked up over the years. The warning labels cover the real risks of the lathe cabinet, and operating the lathe including: electrical, rotating parts, read instructions, wear PPE (Personal Protective Equipment.. eg safety glasses) and the most important of all... I copied and modified the logo from Hack-a-day with the advice to "not let warnings put you off being creative, or learning" since I believe too many in today's society become too scared of warnings to actually try something new.

What else about the control box? There is an aluminium gland plate in the bottom face of the box for the passage of  cabling to the motor and to the E-stop at the tail-stock.

The entire cabinet was painted with "Bender grey" paint - the darker of the two colours used to paint up Bender. The colour is nice, and I have over 5L ( about 6 pints) of paint left from painting Bender so I'll be painting a few things with it over the next few years.

The only topics left to describe with this project is the electrical systems including:
Schematics, wiring, switch construction, and controls. I daresay those topics will be covered in about 2 more articles, and then that will be it for the lathe cabinet unless there are questions.

Saturday, February 5, 2011

Taig Lathe Stand/Cabinet - introduction

The current project...
My Taig lathe has been residing on a sheet of 18mm MDF for the past 10 years. The sheet has a wooden drawer built in underneath it, and a clutch/ jackshaft system for speed control. I will put a photo up in this series of articles, but not yet, this post is more a "preview".

Basically the old base (lathe stand) works, but it has limitations and problems. Some of the problems are the result of a certain removalist, some the result of bad design on my part, and most are simply the result of cutting corners due to cost constraints. - whatever the reason, it's time to make things better.

I'll do up a series of articles covering the design and build (mechanical and electrical) later, but for now here's some progress photos and a brief note of some features...
Lathe stand/ cabinet features:
full length/width drip tray
2 lockable equipment drawers under the drip tray with full extension
removable swarf tray
swarf gate in drip tray for dumping swarf
removable back board
4 switched GPO's (power points) with MCB
adjustable motor mount with belt unloader (clutch)
fold in carry handles
magnetic base with enough thickness for tapping holes if needed.
enough room to permit/ support my planned projects (backgear, change-wheels, taper turning attachment, indicator bases)

Motor controls:
24VDC 500W PWM VSD with reversing switch
16-20A over current protection
NVR (No Volts Release) circuit with additional e-stop at tail stock end




Just  waiting on the postman to deliver a few parts and this job is finished. The VSD cabinet (LHS rectangular section) contains:
500W 24VDC PSU (courtesy surplus parts online)
6800uF capacitor from a Seimens VVVF (for smoothing)
125mm fan (with some trickery in the ducting) for forced cooling
PWM circuit (with heatsinking)
control switches (Start, Stop, Speed control, reversing switch)
IEC socket with filter

DIN mount rail containing -
16-20A SFKOL overload protection device
NHP Terasaki MCB for isolating all 240VAC circuits
Industry standard relay mount and relay for NVR circuit
The DIN mounted components are accessible through the front panel (for resetting, or fault finding)




Both drawers are accessed from the front, on ball bearing slides with full extension - no excuse to have things lost in the back of the drawer again.




The removable back board supports the electrical circuits, and a tray for storing things during work - a work light will be attached to this backboard as well.




The range of travel in the "unloader" mechanism is shown here (the distance between the shaft and the vertical steel ruler - about 35mm (1.5")). The adjustable motor mount is shown midway through it's 100mm (4") of travel.




A photo from the tailstock end of the cabinet showing the tray mounted on the backboard - the rectangular holes visible in the slanting face are for the GPOs. The tray has a false floor and is sealed so the GPOs and cabling are protected. The GPOs were mounted in this manner (downwards sloping face) to provide easy access, but also make it impossible for swarf or coolant to fall into the outlet holes.

The materials used is basically salvaged sheet metal - some 4mm gal sheet for the load bearing areas, and sign-white (colourbond) for the rest.
The frame is a hotch potch of 25x25x3 angle, and some 25x25x1.6 square tubing.
All sheet metal bending (that worked - see future postings) was done using metal clamping with judicious use of hammers, wood blocks, and muttered cussin'
Most of the electrical parts are salvaged, however the power supply, and PWM section are purchased/ built  - all other parts removed from salvaged equipment (even recycled some bus mounts from a switch board to make the drawer handles)

The techniques, design, and details will be covered once I get the main computer fixed (power outage cooked one of the bridges in the mobo - lost the O/S drive and a few other peripherals), and few other demands on me at this time

Next update will most likely be in two weeks time - the pictures are already taken, it's just time to type, format and upload.