Field desk - part 2 - Hardware

Hardware fabrication



Hinges
Using the design I created, I needed to be able to remove the door to use as a work surface. I built two hinges from brass - 1/8"T x 2"W brass strip, and some brass rod salvaged from the spindle of an old household tap.

Figure 1 - Hinge materials

The hinges were patterned on a half barrel hinge style similar to those used on trailers for the tail gate - I choose that design so the door could be removed in a similar fashion.

Figure 2 - Hinges under construction - engaged

The spindle was cut and then turned in the lathe (Taig) to make the parts. Once made, the strip brass was cut and filed to suit the parts, and then all pieces soldered together.

Figure 3 - Hinges under construction - released

Once the hinges were finished, I inlaid them into the floor and door of the desk, and rebated in the backing plates on the reverse side of these surfaces. The screws securing the hardware are all 3/16" UNC (10-24 for our US cousins) into a nut plate on the reverse side.

Figure 4 - Hinges fitted - engaged

A notch has been cut in the RH side panel to permit the door to be removed similar to a trailer tailgate.

Figure 5 - hinges fitted - door released

Locks
Next thing to make was the locks. The requirements on the locks was that the door had to be perfectly flat on both sides - the outside so it would lay on a table top and not scratch the table, the inner surface needs to be flat so it can form the working surface when I'm using the desk.
I planned on making disc-locks, but after reviewing my stock of materials, came to the conclusion that cam locks would be the design. I did not have much in the way of 1/2" diameter brass rod, so I decided to use a cartridge case (.243 Win) to form the shaft. (I have a stash of around 20 of these cartridge cases which were given to me for scrap brass). The cam plate was roughly made up, and then soldered to the cartridge case at the appropriate height to permit the base of the cartridge to be used as actuating surface outside the door.

Figure 6 - Cam lock under construction

The front and back plates were made up, and the lock assembled. Only once assembled was the cam shaped to its final length, with some easing to improve its alignment when turned. The base of the cartridge was spot-drilled to match the "keys" I made - basically a small pin-wrench.

Figure 7 - Pin-wrench "key" under construction

The pin wrench started life as one of those promotional key-chain bottle openers, but after cutting and drilling a pair of nails were driven in and cut and filed to make the pin-wrenches. I made 2 of the keys so I have a spare.

Figure 8 - Finished lock - in locked position

Once the front and back plates were completed, a top plate was made and soldered to the front plate. Clearance slots for the cam operation was made, and suitably relieved for easy use. The holes in the lock were drilled to indicate the lock status - vertical holes indicate the lock is "locked", horizontal holes indicate unlocked - there is only 90 degrees of movement in the lock mechanism.

Figure 9 - Finished lock in unlocked position

Door opening mechanism - The Pusher
Since the door has to be perfectly flat on both sides, there is no handle. I considered a flip out handle, I considered simply drilling a hole to poke my finger through - both ideas had aspects which did not appeal to my sense of this project... What I really needed was something inside the desk to push the door out once the locks were released... What I came up with was "the pusher".
The pusher is nothing more than a simple spring loaded detent plunger - but instead of pressing into a detent hole, it simply pushes the door away from the locked position by about 1/2" - more than enough to get my finger on to lower the door to the table top. The pusher uses another .243" cartridge casing for the spring holder, and the plunger is made from more tap spindle stock. Who knows where the spring came from, I've boxes of salvaged "useful junk" which gets pawed through when I do jobs like this.

Figure 10 - Pusher components

The spring casing is rebated into the riser, and the cover plate relieved into the edge so there is no protrusion other than the plunger.

Figure 11 - Pusher spring casing installed

This piece of hardware is the only one secured with normal wood screws into wood - all others use the nut-plate method described in the hinges. The screws into timber should be able to hold the minor force of the spring at the end of its travel.

Figure 12 - Pusher installation nearly complete

Once the locks are unlocked, the pusher moves the door about 3/4" if the LHS doesn't grab (that bowed panel as mentioned when I built the carcass), 1/2" if it does rub... either way I can still open the door easily.

Figure 13 - Result of pusher on unlocked door

Handle
The other piece of hardware to build was the handle. Most of my toolboxes have handles which protrude on the lid - making it nearly impossible to stack things on top. Given the intended use of this desk is in a "accommodation camp" where I may need to stack a laptop, or books on top, I was insistent that the handle design had to leave the top surface perfectly flat. The ideal scenario would have been to use the folding handle from the top of a 7.62 x 51mm ammo can - but I couldn't find any. I did not trust my skills to make one, so I looked at every box and case I owned looking for a low profile handle - I stole this idea off an industrial first-aid cabinet.

Figure 14 - Handle components

The basic strap (handle) is made from 2 layers of pallet strapping - the 3/4" wide blue/black metal banding you find on pallets of bricks and other heavy things. I drilled and slotted it, then shrunk two layers of heat-shrink tuning over it to make the handle comfortable. I then made a pair of brass "sockets" which hold the handle, and allow it to slide in it slot for extending under weight, or retracting when not in use. I made the top plates for the sockets larger than required and drilled 2 large holes in each for attaching labels (addressing, or shipping labels).

Figure 15 - Assembled handle

Since I'd already glued the carcass together (my enthusiasm bit me hard there) I had to make my own "T-Nuts" to engage from the underside. Basically cylindrical spigots soldered to shim brass which were then friction fitted into holes in the timber. I wasn't feeling overly confident in the solder joints, so I backed the nuts up with some Loctite CA glue. If the nuts pull through, I'll have to look at redesigning the handle nuts, but so far OK.

Figure 16 - Completed field desk with all hardware

Since nothing was rebated in, and the finished handle is proud by 1/4", I still had protrusion to deal with, so the only quick answer was to cut an overlay board of 1/4" plywood and screw it on top to raise the surface of the top around the handle. - Not ideal, but I'd rather do that with 1/4" ply than the 1/2" ply I'd have needed for the commercial handle the local hardware store had. (trying to keep the weight down)
The additional sheet can be seen in Figures 16 and 17. It comprises some 1/4" (6mm) plywood, and an interposing sheet of cardboard (edges covered with masking tape) - this effectively recesses the handle, with minimal weight gains.

Figure 17 - Demonstrating use of tag holes in handle

All screws for the hardware had to be cut down in length so there was no protrusion to scratch the tabletop. A dab of thread-locker will be applied during final assembly just to ensure they don't come loose during travelling.

Still to come:
Electrical section
Trays and containers
finishing

- apologies for the number of photos  - next time I'll do this as two articles.

Field desk - part 1 - cabinet

Construction of the field desk

I have need for an electronics tool and experimentation kit which is self contained. I looked around on the internet for some ideas, but failed to find anything which suited my needs, or seemed practical for my planned budget.
The military used to use field desks (you occasionally see one in the old episodes of M*A*S*H if you want to see an example of a real one) and I thought that would make a good starting point for a design.

I googled (is that a real word yet?) "field desk plans" and found some dimensions from early American history re-enactors and museums. Most centered on dimensions of 24"W x 18"H x 10"D (nominally 600mmW x 450mmH x 250mmD) and that seemed like a reasonable size for my intended purposes.
Whilst planning the cutting for the timber I had, I decided to use an external depth of 12" (nominally 300mm) instead of the original 10" mentioned previously due to the depth of the plastic containers I am planning to use.
My timber was the remains of a UPS packing crate which I salvaged from a job about 2-3 years ago. The timber from the sides of the crate was 6mm (1/4") plywood, and the side which doubled as a ramp was 10mm (3/8") plywood. I drew up some plans and cutting lists using the 10mm ply for the top, bottom, riser, back and sides. I planned on using 6mm ply for the shelves, and some 12mm (1/2") plywood for the front. Due to a cutting error I ended up having to use some of the 12mm ply for the sides as well.

Figure 1 - Raw plywood material

Figure 2 - Cut into basic panels

After marking the timber to the largest finished dimension for each panel, I cut the panels out using a circular saw.
The rough panels were then marked up with the slots, dovetails, etc which were cut in using a jigsaw, hacksaw, and portable drill (the drill was used to start the slots for the finger joints. All external joints were made as dovetail joints to help the box stay together, whilst the internal joints (supporting the shelves) were made as finger joints (tab and slot).

Figure 3 - partially assembled carcass

During the construction I would clip the unit together to mark up the next panel - for some reason I got confuzzled at the end of the first day and assembled the desk with one piece reversed. This then meant the finished carcass went together upside down, and mirrored. Thankfully the photos I'd taken earlier in the day were able to be used to show me the correct orientation of the pieces, and allowed me to assemble it correctly the following day. Being right-handed, I really wanted the section for power to be on the RHS.

Figure 4 - Carcass assembled, but with pieces mirrored by accident - rear view

The back was marked up for dovetails and slots, then cut and fitted.

Figure 5 - Back panel marked up and cut for dovetails and finger joints.

Once happy with the finished carcass, I dismantled it and sanded all panels before assembling with construction adhesive (aka "Liquid nails") and PVA glue.

Figure 6 - Back panel in place on carcass of field desk, shelves not in place.

The front door was then cut and tested for fit. I found a slight bow in the LHS side panel - I'm still trying to determine if I can remove it,or if I will need to alter the door slightly to compensate. UPDATE - I modified the door slightly by allowing a slight amount of slack in the hinges, and put a heavy chamfer on the inner edges of the door, this allows the door to close and adjust it's centre based on the 1-2mm bow in the LHS panel.

Figure 7 - Field desk with shelves filled with sample material

Whilst the glue dried, I commenced work on building the hardware... hinges, catches, etc.

Next articles will include:
Hardware - hinges, catches, etc
Electrical - Lighting, PSU, etc
Finishing - Painting, trim, etc

Since I didn't get much done last week on the desk, I'm hoping to complete it over the next two weeks or so.

Dividing Head for Taig (and others) - Part 4 - sector arms, plunger, etc

Last article for the Dividing head.... What's left to discuss?
Sector arms
Plunger arm
Retaining Knob and spacers


Sector arms
The sector arms are patterned on the arm design from Tony Jeffree's website. The arms were first patterned out in cardboard, then cut out using a hacksaw, files, and drills.

Figure 1 - Sector arms with locking screw

The lower arm is then soft-soldered to a brass boss which protrudes to form a spigot for the upper arm. A screw has been drilled and threaded so it fully engages in the boss, but it's head overlaps the moving arm. A small brass cylinder was made to concentrate/ exaggerate the clamping force from the screw head.
In normal operation the screw is loosened by about 1 turn, and the upper arm can rotate freely on the spigot of the lower arm, once set at the appropriate arc angle (hole spacing), the screw is simply re-tightened to lock the arms in positions relative to each other. Both arms are still able to rotate as an assembly on the spigot of the plate carrier.

Figure 2 - Sector arms on plate retainer

A cover, which is actually a spacer, sits over the arm assembly in use, but serves no functional purpose other than to increase the distance between the arm, and the surface of the division plate.
Not long after starting to use this dividing head, I found the tips of the arms were difficult to operate if they crossed each other - kinda like trying to open scissors by using the tips... To alleviate that issue I turned the tip of the upper arm upwards to form a handle. I could have added a nice little knob, but I was worried about the extra weight on the slender arm.

Figure 3 - Spacer cover on sector arms

Plunger arm
The plunger arm - the arm which actually rotates the worm, is made of 1/4" thick brass strip. A slot (1/4" wide) was made through the middle by the use of chain drilling, and filing. This slot engages the flats filed on the worm shaft. A brass plunger mechanism was fabricated and the body soft-soldered to the arm.
The slot was made so the division plates could have multiple rows of holes, although typically I use only 3 rows of holes per plate at most.

Figure 4 - Plunger arm fitted to worm shaft

One problem I have with this plunger is that the threaded portion which holds the shaft and handle together will sometimes spin undone whilst using the knob for rotating the worm. I'll remember to dab a drop of superglue in there one day, but until then I remember to tighten the threaded joint before use.

Figure 5 - plunger arm secured by retaining knob

Retaining Knob and spacers
The retaining knob is simply a brass turned object, and my first attempt at knurling. The picture makes it look better than it actually is... the knob won't roll of the table because there is a flat spot on the bottom where the knurling "crunched up" - I can't explain why it happened, and I've since tried to rebuild the scissor knurler, but I keep having issues there.

Figure 6 - Retaining knob in profile

As mentioned with the sector arms, there is a cover which acts to space up the plunger arm. There is another spacer which sits above the arm to space the retaining knob. With both spacers in their correct locations, the arm is essentially clamped to the worm shaft not only by the slot, but also by the clamping of the spacers. It basically removes any clamping effects from the knob on the sector arms, since if I place the upper spacer in the wrong position (under the plunger arm) it will attempt to turn the sector arms when I operate the worm.

Figure 7 - Spacer ring above sector arm

Most of the brass was from the scrap merchant I mentioned in my previous articles, but the brass sheet for the sector arms was bought as scrap from the local radiator place (along with a clapped out 8" bench grinder which only needed $12 worth of bearings), and the brass for the plunger arm was purchased from the scrap bin of a local fabrication mob (NOT cheap)


 As previously mentioned, the spigot at the rear of the dividing head body permits the plate/worm assembly to rotated through about 180 degrees allowing the dividing head to be used vertically, or horizontally and still have the sector arms, division plate, plunger arm facing the operator.

Figure 8 - Plate assembly rotated 45 degrees to illustrate movement

That's about it for the Dividing head.. it's been used on and off over the years for a few jobs and will continue to be used for many more. The most recent job was making up a wrench called a "Torx-plus" so we could access the internals of a harddrive enclosure. The Torx-plus is a 5 lobed version of the more common 6 lobed "torx" bit. I made the bit  by drilling holes in the end of a piece of steel shaft to create 5 holes on the appropriate PCD, and then turned the holes away to only leave half the hole. The metal between each hole was used left in place to form the 5 lobes needed to turn the screws out of the enclosure.

I'll have to sit down one day and see if I can improve the design around the sector arms and plunger - it works, now, but it does need some improvement so the spacers aren't necessary - they are a pain if the top one gets put in out of sequence (below the plunger arm).

The field desk is progressing along, and will be the next article series at this stage. I've designed the locks and latch, and have commenced designing the hinges, support arms, lighting and handle. Somewhere in all that I'll need to decide what colour to paint it. This week I have jury duty, so it's possible I may get an hour each arfternoon/evening to work on the hardware.. here's hoping.

Dividing Head for Taig (and others) - Part3 - division plate generation

The division plates used on this dividing head are made from old Hard Disk platters - the part of the harddrive which actually stores your data.
Each 3.5" hard disk will contain one or more of these disks which is 5.25" in diameter, with a 1" hole in the middle. The nominal thickness of the disks is around 1mm (less than 1/16") - I say nominal because I've found the more modern disks typically are thinner (less rotational inertia), whereas the older drives are thicker (up to 1/16")
The only thing you can rely on is that all disks in the same platter (collection of disks) will be the same thickness.


Figure 1 - Collection of platters destined to become division plates


I've been collecting hard disks for salvage for quite a while. The magnets are useful (see shed tip #1 ), and I also salvage bearings from them. The disks get shuffled into the pile for making division plates, and the casings go into the scrap aluminium bin (for foundry supplies) - only the boards, screws and little plastic doo-hickies get tossed. I learn a fair bit about mechanical design from looking inside the harddrive as well - there's some really clever braking mechanisms used to return the head, lock it, and so forth simply driven by ground effects from the spinning disk platter.

To make up a division plate:
I insert this mandrel into the back of the spindle of the dividing head. (see figure 2)

 Figure 2 - Direct indexing mandrel

The mandrel is made to expand and grip the inside of the spindle once the 1/4" nut is tightened up. A gear is placed between the 2 large washers which is an exact match (or multiple of) the desired index count. When I generated the 40 hole plate, I used a 40 tooth gear, but I could have used a 80 tooth gear if I had one.

 Figure 3 - Mandrel in place

The mandrel is sized to match the collection of C218 changewheels I purchased a few years ago. Those changewheels are the basis for the leadscrew of the Taig lathe and are the same metric mod 1, 20 degree PA changewheels used in the myriad of 7x12 lathes available in the US and other locations.

I place a chuck on the dividing head, and use a holder to grip the blank division plate in the chuck.
A centre drill is gripped in the lathe chuck using an arbor supporting a normal drill chuck.

Figure 4 - Dividing head spindle nose

A detent plunger mechanism is attached to the dividing head body which engages the gap between the teeth of the gear wheel. Turning and locking the spindle turns the blank plate, and all I need to do is feed the head into the drill to make the holes in the plate. The bracket supporting the detent plunger system is made from an offcut of an aluminium angle extrusion. The bracket is bolted to the body with two socket-head screws, and has holes to pass over the heads of the body bolts. Figure 5 (below) illustrates how it is fitted, with one securing bolt removed for demonstration purposes.

Figure 5 - Detent plunger system fitted

The detent plunger has a wedge shape when viewed from the side, but an inverted V shape when viewed from the front - this is to allow the indexing of the tooth tip instead of the gap between the teeth. This means I can index in the gaps of a 20 tooth gear, then rotate the plunger 90 degrees, and then index off the tooth tip and obtain another 20 positions - allowing me to generate a 40 hole plate from a 20 tooth gear.
The mount block for the detent plunger is bolted to the vertical arm of the bracket in one of 3 positions, allowing for a wide range of gear diameters. The large hole drilled through the body (from it's previous scrap origin) is used to secure the plunger with an elastic band if the internal spring is needing a little help.
The last article will cover (albeit briefly) the sector arms, plunger arm, and retaining mechanism.


Next project for documentation will be the field desk if I get it completed on schedule.

Dividing Head for Taig (and others) - Part2 - plate carrier and worm

The plate carrier was made from 1/2" plate. A piece similar to the brake was made and the plate carrier was bolted to it. One bolt holds the piece on, and another engages a curved slot which is used to adjust the amount of backlash in the worm/spur gear engagement.



Figure 1 - plate carrier/ worm assembly

Another piece of metal is made which has a 1" diameter spigot which is about 0.5mm thick. This spigot is made to match the hole in the middle of a hard-disk platter. A piece of 1/4" brass has been drilled in to intersect the edge of the hole and a corresponding notch is cut into the platter to stop it rotating. A cover plate is made with a corresponding hole and screw to lock the plate (Hard-disk platter) in place. Yes that's chatter marks from turning... that work was done on a stub arbor.


Figure 2 - plate carrier with spigot



Figure 3 - Plate mounted on spigot

The plate retainer is basically a brass plate with a hollow spigot on it. The worm shaft passes through the spigot, whereas the sector arms rotate about the spigot.

Figure 4 - plate retainer holding plate on spigot

The other main feature of the plate carrier is that the part which carries the plate can be rotated through approx 90 degrees. This was cut from a piece of plate, mounted on a stub arbor, and turned to match the curvature of the mating piece. A slot was cut in the side rim whic mates to a threaded hole in the main part. The purpose of this is to allow the plate carrier (and attached plate) to be rotated independently from the worm itself over a 90 degree range. Why? Imagine you mount something requiring 13 divisions in the chuck on the dividing head, and then need to index another section of the same piece with 19 divisions and one section needs to be perfectly in line. I can mount up, cut one set of indexed points, apply the spindle brake, then change the plate, and move the plate to align exactly with one plate hole, then re-commence indexing for 19 positions. Maybe something which will only happen once in a blue moon, but it cost me little but time to add it into the design.

Figure 5 - one extreme of plate carrier adjustment



Figure 6 - another extreme of plate carrier adjustment


The worm itself was cut down from the original shape when removed from the sewing machine. A triangular groove was turned in it which intersects with a pointed socket-head screw used to lock it in longitudinal position, and a pair of flats and 1/4-20 thread was cut into the end. These correspond with the sector arm, and retaining nut respectively.



Figure 7 - worm in carrier showing flats and threaded sections

All bushings in this part of the dividing head are simple yellow brass, not bronze. At the time I built this I could get surplus electrical test probes from the local salvage place for a couple of dollars. Each probe comprised about 12" of 1" diameter nylon with a 1/4" bore, and a corresponding length of 1/4" brass rod in the middle. A few other bits made up the probe, so I was able to get nylon (for rail buttons) and brass rod quite cheap. The interface disk from the probe was used to make the plate retainer since it was 1 1/2" in diameter, and about 1/4" thick. I miss that shop. Pretty much all the remaining brass I have is from various scrap merchants, or salvaged from all sorts of junk.

I'll cover generating plates and direct indexing next.

Dividing Head for Taig (and others) - Part 1 - Body and introduction

The dividing head was inspired by the work done by Tony Jeffree, and then heavily modified to suit my own circumstances and situation. (Note - Tony has a second design which uses a Taig spindle - see this link)
All photos in this series of articles were taken after construction had concluded since I did not have a camera during the build. This build occurred in Q2-3 of 2005 and was documented on Nick Carter's page back then.

Figure 1 - Dividing head in use on Taig Lathe

You can buy dividing heads - example shown here from Amazon, and there are books which touch on building your own (another example from Amazon) - in short, you need to decide what resources you have,and determine the best course... in my case I did not have a great amount of money, and I did have some time, and a willingness to learn - this meant I made my own. If I had the money... the start of many dreams. I don't have either of these products, but show them as examples of alternatives to scrap metal, wrecked sewing machines, etc.


















Building the dividing head body and base.
I started by making up a spindle. Tony's one used a drill chuck, but after reading many text books which talked about not disturbing work in chucks, I decided it would be better to make my dividing head use the lathe chuck if possible. This meant I had to make a spindle with a nose of 3/4"-16 tpi, with a 30 degree included angle for collets, and a through spindle bore of at least 3/8".
I had previously bored the spindle of my Taig lathe to 7/16" not long after purchasing it so I could pass 3/8" stock through the head - I used the same drill size to bore out the spindle of the dividing head.

Using a larger lathe (Thanks Dad!) I turned a 3/4-16 thread on a piece of 3/4 shafting, and drilled/bored the 7/16" through hole. I then made a collar which was shrunk on to form the register face for the lather spindle nose. This register face ensures the alignment of the lathe chuck. Whilst facing the register face, I also bored the tapered seat for the taig collets.
At the same time as all this lathework, I also threaded the other end of the spindle (3/4-16) to use for thrust nuts, and securing worms , etc.

By the time I'd finished the spindle, I was back home, and unable to access Dad's lathe - this meant all subsequent work was done on the Taig Lathe.

The body of the dividing head was made from a short length of 50x50 (2' x 2") aluminium I picked up at the scrap dealers.
The base plate of the dividing head was made from some 1/2" plate which was a reject from some CNC mob (I picked it up at the same scrap dealer as the 2"x2" piece)
I found if I stacked the 2" x2" on the plate, on the carriage, the centreline was in line with the spindle. Perfect for my immediate plans, and in line with my longer term goal.
The theory was I'd build the head on the plate base, and then should I every need to use the head on another lathe, it was simply a case of making a new base plate.. all other parts will transfer across.

The base plate was cut to square the end (The off-cut piece became the handle of my 3/16" allen key) and appropriately drilled and counterbored for the Taig slot pattern.


Figure 2 - original base plate shape - allen key handle made from off-cut.






The square body was then bolted to the plate, and line drilled and line bored on the Taig. Somehwer in all the line boring I used a shaft as an arbor, and turned the square body on the shafting to form a spigot at one end of the body.

The line boring provided a clearance fit for the 3/4" diameter spindle, and a light press fit for the bushes used at each end.

Figure 3 - Body on base plate

A brake was made and fitted to the front of the body which engages the collar shrunk onto the spindle.


Figure 4 - Front of body showing brake on collar

The spigot which was turned on the rear of the body is used to support the plate carrier. I saw somewhere that some dividing heads are used horizontally and vertically, and that some models allow the position of the plate to be changed to make things easier on the user... seemed like a good idea to incorporate into my build.

The worm and gear for my dividing head was salvaged from an old Singer sewing machine I found on the side of the road on curb dump day. It's a 24:1 ratio set which is OK for this design. I bored out the spur gear to suit the spindle, and cross drilled and threaded some grub screws in place. A normal 3/4-16 nut was cut down and faced to become a thrust adjustment nut. The other half of the thinned nut is often spun on to the spindle after the spur gear as a lock-nut. The grub screws on the spur gear engage in filed flats in the spindle thread.

Figure 5 - spigot, thrust-nut and worm on spindle.

The plate carrier will be discussed in another article, but here is a photo of it in it's place on the spigot.

Figure 6 - Plate carrier in place on spigot

The body really isn't much more than support for the spindle, and a means to hold everything else on the dividing head. I tried to design the body to make the head transferable from one machine to another - the base plate is the designed mechanism to permit that.

The plate is designed with holes in a grid to allow the plate to be mounted on Taig T-slots either parallel, or perpendicular to the slots.

Next articles: Plate carrier, plate generation, and sector arms and worm driving.


In the meanwhile I got the carcass of the field desk made yesterday, and hope to have the woodwork completed over the next week or so, then make up the catches, hinges, and handle over the next week, then inletting, finishing and it's complete. Everything takes time since I only have one day per week to do work - I try to keep the Sabbath holy, and work does a good job taking the other 5+ days... My wife is a darling since she encourages me to spend at least half of every Saturday in the shed - for that I'm most grateful.